I bought a beautiful 2006 Powerstroke a couple weeks ago and the dealership guy said the truck had been serviced, no small thing on a 6.0. Well, it seemed to be cranking too long before it would fire, so I checked the fuel filter. The large one was stained black on the bottom and the small one wasn't a motorcraft and was full off gunk. That told me right there the guy was a liar, so I figured I better service the truck. I changed the fuel filter up top and it was filthy also. Now the really bad part; I bought the stuff to change the oil, a motorcraft filter, and 15 quarts of 15w40 oil. When I went to pull the oil filter cap off, my blood ran cold, it was a Napa and said do no re-use, and sure enough, some idiot had put a motorcraft in it, so I basically didn't have an oil filter for I don't know how long. The filter was filthy of course, and I went up and bought a Ford cap and put it all back together. The truck starts in about 3to 4 seconds, and sounds great. No weird turbo sounds or anything. I took it out and drove it like I stole it, and not much smoke, but it flies. Tons of power and torque, so what do I do? I thought about making him buy me a Sinister coolant and oil cooler job. Those are supposed to add miles to the engine. It has 103k now and I'm getting ready to completely redo the exhaust to a 4 inch and get rid of the two cats and the muffler. I have a huge stainless glasspack that will fit under there no problem, and deliver 0 backpressure. Should I be losing sleep about that filter being screwed, or just figure the truck survived, so it's a good one?

 

I hate lying sales people. I would take back the bad parts, show them and get them to give you all new stuff or at least some money back. if they won't, start with the bbb, or whoever and start making waves. Depending on how long the filter wasn't correct, there could be sludge build up or not. Someone else might have better advice but I would probably do 2 more oil changes at the 2000 mile marks just to be sure.

 

I hate lying sales people. I would take back the bad parts, show them and get them to give you all new stuff or at least some money back. if they won't, start with the bbb, or whoever and start making waves. Depending on how long the filter wasn't correct, there could be sludge build up or not. Someone else might have better advice but I would probably do 2 more oil changes at the 2000 mile marks just to be sure.

 

unless you got a warranty. paperwork might say AS-IS.


90 percent of used car salesmen .. LIE... I am a retired auto mechanic. worked for dealerships and used car shops.


my opinion. << LIVE AND LEARN >>

 

I would be more concerned about it being wrecked and patched up. Check for new paint on the frame, check panel gaps, doors tailgate sticking bumpers flaking or new paint, orange peel, paint run etc

 

You Have to run diagnostics before you do anything else. EOT vs ECT for starters. HPOP at start up? Slow starting could be a hpop leak issue. Add a coolant filter is a must.
Check you egr valve for moisture.
Once you know the engine is operating properly with the numbers, I'd move on to other issues, not before.

 

Good advice from all you fellas, I was thinking of taking this route. Maybe get that SOB to at least pay for the material to do the maintenance.

You all have to excuse my ignorance on these trucks, I've been driving a 1985 Chevy with a Detroit Diesel in it it for the last 15 years or so. Now it's been retired to chainsaw and dog hauling duty. Damn thing might be the last one that hasn't grenaded yet. I found out early on, the way to get miles out of those was to keep a fresh harmonic balancer / damper on the front of the engine. When that rubber between the two metal rings gets hard, it ain't long for this world. I was pretty happy with that truck, but I think the sides and rockers being rusted out kind of embarrassed the Missus. I'll say this though, in the last couple weeks I have become a Powerstroke fanatic, man these are nice trucks, and I can't believe how strong they run. Ya know the old 6.2 Chevy didn't even have a turbo, much less an intercooler.
So where do I go to get the codes brought up, or do I need to buy some sort of reader/tuner? If there's a way to tell anything about the engine from a computer, I'm all for it. The truck starts good now, I'd say 3 to 4 seconds when cold (60F).
Hey, I appreciate the hell out of the help. I know this knowledge is not just something you wake up with some day and I appreciate you all sharing yours with me.

 

I did get a carfax with it (yeah I know, they make good toilet paper) and it actually showed one small wreck when it was nearly new. The truck came from Iowa and the old boy bought it for hauling hogs in a fifth wheel trailer. It was brand new and the guy backed it up and somehow the fifth wheel tongue hit the bed below the back window hard enough to break the glass. It's got a really slick fifth wheel hitch where you pull a lever by the tire and it pops up, then of course there's a light hook up inside,and outside of the bed.
I talked to my brother in law last night who has been a Ford dealership mechanic for ~40 years, and after he called me a nut for buying a 6.0 we had a pretty good talk. He said if it made it through the initial screw up, I'll probably be ok, but the truck really shouldn't have started at all. He suggested changing the drain down valve and change the filter a couple extra times before I change the oil again. He said if you keep the maintenance up on time, and use real Ford parts, they are good trucks. He also said, any chance I get to pull something heavy, take it, as these are made to work hard and putting around for groceries isn't the best thing in the world for them. Last thing he said was the worst part about doing my own work on it, was a lot of stuff requires you to pull the cab! He said that'a not to bad if you have the proper lifting device, they give him like 4 hrs in the flat rate manual for removal. A guy in his shop did one the other day and forgot the parking break cable and that didn't go to good.

 

The hitch you have is not a 5th wheel it is a gooseneck hitch. If you keep the pop up ball lubed it should work well, just don't try to pull a true 5th wheel with it, it needs an adapter that raises havoc on 5th wheel frames. That said the 6.0 can be a good engine, just get on the web and learn all you can about it, and remember most of the time you only find the scare stories, not to good ones. Also there is almost nothing that can't be repaired cab ON, it's just harder. You do need to get a scanner tool like a ScanGauge 2 to keep an eye on different things like oil & coolant temps, HPOP (high pressure oil pump) readings and so forth. These engines can be expensive to fix, but if you have a moderate amount of skill and patience you can do it yourself and save a lot of $.

 

Hate to tell you, but your homeboy is wrong. If you have a lift, bully for you, go to town doing whatever you want to. But there's literally nothing except replacing the cab that requires the cab to be removed.

That's not my opinion, that's what the real Ford shop manual for engine replacement says. The 6.0 comes out the front like every other engine in a Super Duty.

 

Dunno, maybe that's just how they do it in the dealership he's at. He says they got one guy that does 90% of them. I'm a retired pipefitter, but was a service fitter, meaning I fixed / overhauled chillers in what Kansas City calls high rise buildings, and process chillers at factories, so I'm fairly handy after almost 40 years of that. So far so good with my truck, the only thing that concerns me about it is the long crank time when it's first started for the day. Just by counting in my head it's a good 8 seconds or maybe a little more. I've looked at a ton of stuff on the webs about these things and it's almost information overload. I need to check it out this afternoon as I have some sort of tube or small pipe unhooked over the driver's side valve cover towards the back, kinda behind the air filter. I noticed Sunday when I was driving out to western KS to fish a buddy's farm pond that I was smelling oil. We pulled over and finally figured out where the smell was coming from. Somehow that little tube became unhooked, and we couldn't get it back on because for the life of me I couldn't work the air filter out. I needed a ladder to really get in there and see what the hell I was doing. It's just a little snug in that engine compartment compared to my 85 Chevy 6.2 that I moved up from. I still got the Chevy sitting here, and crank it up every week and let it run for a few hours, just in case.

 

It's the CCV. You have to take the intake tube loose from the turbo and rear air filter cover and turn that connector to lock into the breather on the valve cover. There's an o-ring on it to seal it, p/n W302725, but you could just permatex it and deal with pealing off the sealant and reapplying if you remove it in the future.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...en-o-ring.html

A common reason for excess oil from the CCV is overfilling the crankcase. Common guideance (owner's manual included) is a 6.0L takes 15 quarts of oil per change. If you actually use the dipstick 13 quarts is usually closed to accurate. The way the dipstick runs into the bedplate means it's very hard to see how far overfilled you are, basically once it reads full all you know is you're past that point. So next oil change add 12 quarts, then add a half a quart at a time to see what your truck really takes. Being a quart over (but under the 15 quart total guideline) isn't really a problem, it just increases the amount of oil that will come out of the CCV and can degrade the CAC boots faster.

CCV o-ring and intake tube install at 1:20:

Air filter removal (yes, it really is faster to disconnect the degas hose and MAF anfd air filter minder and pull it all out at once, I promise):

 

Yeah, pulled the air filter, and that was indeed the crankcase line, so it would seem I was pulling in some unfiltered air right in front of that nice clean turbo impeller, yikes. Got it all hooked backed up with a new ring and checked the oil, it shows just under plum full. IIRC, I put 15 qts in when I changed the oil and filter. I will check it again, tomorrow before I start it. The oil smell of course went away, and all seems good, it really sounds and runs good anyway. The only other time I ever had to deal with a turbo / inter cooled job was an 87 Grand National that I bought new, and sold about 10 years ago with 15k on the clock. I thought I was a bit high at 15k dollars, but the guy couldn't get the check written quick enough, I guess I sold her too cheap, but I was getting out of the Buick muscle hobby. It had a little Garrett on it that made 17 pounds,but that was plenty for the little 3.8 gas motor. What's the story on the EGR bypass vrs. block off on these, I'm clueless on that subject, everyone has a different idea it seems. Then there's the oil cooler, and coolant filter that interest me? Thanks for the help gentlemen, this truck really fascinates me and I'd like to have her for a long time.

 

I would like to take this obviously good advice, is this something I have to take it to a dealer for, or is it something a tuner, or tool I could buy will do? To be brutally honest, this is a bit Greek to me. Again, please forgive my "newbiness", but I am a fairly quick study on mechanical with just a little guidance. I do know where the EGR is located, do I just pull it and visually inspect for moisture?
Oh, another thing; when I pulled the air filter assembly, it looked like the turbo side of the plastic housing was a bit warped. It does have a foam seal, but I could swear I could feel air leaking in when I got done. Is that something where I could spray just a hair of WD40 to see if the engine idle picks up to check for an air leak, or how else would I check it? The impeller was shiny clean like a new quarter, but what does that tell me? Maybe just replace that "airhorn" for lack of a better term? It's the piece the filter indicator plugs into. Thanks a heap once again fellas. I'm kinda the "old man" over at a vacuum tube Hi-Fi forum and I know how it is helping guys that are just getting started, so I really appreciate you all taking the time to type all this stuff out. I know it's all out there already, but for some reason I trust you all way more than the other stuff I'm seeing. That's why I'm bugging the hell out of ya.

 

If I may ask one more quick question. What about crank times on these? I live in KS and have not found any plug for a block heater yet, although I have looked all up in the bumper, etc........ Even on mild days, like 65 degrees, the first start of the day, I wonder if it's ever going to "kick". When it does finally start, it does so with authority, and runs fine, it just seems to crank forever, and yep, new Motorcraft batteries. Is this normal, and how cold does it have to be before you plug these in. The old Chev would start down to around 20 without being plugged in. I'm wondering if the long crank could have anything to do with the previous owner having the oil filters messed up, and maybe something happened with the little drain down valve that the filter presses on. Can that get blown out of place?