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It will start without a block heater down to well below 0*, it's pretty much personal preference of when to use it above that point. I use a 15A appliance timer and run it for 3 hours on nights when it's below freezing, since there are relatively few of those here. If I lived in CO again I don't know how often I would or not, since running 0W40 or 5W40 makes cold starting so much better even without the block heater. On a 65 degree day, it should not matter at all, and actually if you use the block heater when it's warm and the truck starts better, it can point towards a problem with the FICM.
It should start in 3-5 seconds. Anything past 10 really points towards a problem. It most likely is electrical though, most 6.0 cold starting issues are ultimately related to the various sensors on the engine. Very rarely is it a mechanical fuel pressure issue, especially if the truck starts quickly once it catches and runs fine with no power loss.
You'll really need a scan tool to pinpoint the cause of the long crank. You can get Torque Pro and a Bluetooth OBDII dongle for about $30, that's the most common starting point to getting real data to use: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...eral-info.html
It will start without a block heater down to well below 0*, it's pretty much personal preference of when to use it above that point. I use a 15A appliance timer and run it for 3 hours on nights when it's below freezing, since there are relatively few of those here. If I lived in CO again I don't know how often I would or not, since running 0W40 or 5W40 makes cold starting so much better even without the block heater.
It should start in 3-5 seconds. Anything past 10 really points towards a problem. Could be electrical though, most 6.0 cold starting issues are ultimately related to the various sensors on the engine.
Ok, thanks for the answer. This truck as I said originated in Iowa, so you would think it would have a heater, I'll look some more. So the long crank gets me back to having codes run as suggested before. Right now I'm running Motorcraft 10W40, so next change, I'll go to 5W40. I'll get this rascal figured out. I bought it right after I retired, one because I needed a new truck, and two, they just seem like a lot of fun to wrench on. I just want to avoid the pitfalls that others have learned the hard way, that's why all the annoying questions. Thanks a heap, Jay
You might try posting over in the 6.0 liter specific forum (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum107/); they will likely be able to help you better assess the problems you are having with your truck.
I think most of them are using the Torque Pro app on their cell phones or tablets to view the diagnostics data for their trucks. The app is something like ten bucks, plus you need to buy an OBD II device that will broadcast a signal carrying the data for your phone to pick it up- again they ought to be able to rapidly inform you on what all you will need.
Also you may want to go into the settings for your account here and edit your signature to include the details of your new truck as it will help others better identify the problems common to your model year of truck.
Good luck.
Last edited by Kaw-Liga; Nov 9, 2016 at 01:11 PM.
Reason: Additional details
Oh crap I misread your post, I didn't see you were asking about not finding the heater cord. The block heater element is always installed in the block, the build sheet option just adds the cord to the truck.
The cord has an orange sheath where it plugs into the element, so if there's not an orange cord coming out of that plug in the pic in the link above, it was either not installed or was removed.
The part number is 5c3z-6b018-da, not sure if this Amazon link is the best price going but it's roughly what I paid when I bought one, and it's the cord you need so you can compare to other places: https://www.amazon.com/Ford-5C3Z-6B0.../dp/B000NTJOJQ
You can try to find an International dealer and see if it's cheaper through them: IH part #- ZBL3600008 , or tell them you need a 66" block heater cord for a VT365.
There has been some discussion about other options for block heater cords, Zero Start makes a cord that fits the heating element and you can run it to a receptacle plug instead of a cord. Search on the 6.0 forum for "Marinco mod" to get more hits for the outlet this guy removed in his first post to replace with a zero start plug: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-new-cord.html
I have to thank you guys so much, I will update my sig. and look for that block heater (dark here now). Just so happens I have a friend that's an International dealer. He actually works for Peterbuilt now, but still has all his "Trash/National" as he called them, connections. I called him as soon as I bought the truck and told him we might be doing some horse trading on parts. He's still got old Scout sheet metal, like quarters and such. He bought some old 40 foot trailers and stuffed them with international stuff as they would tell him to scrap it. I actually helped our old mail man put rockers on his right hand drive Scout many years ago. He's retired now and his Grandson ended up with that old stump jumper; not sure if it's still alive, it was a V8 too. We had a Travel All that a group of us rebuilt and used for a quail and pheasant rig. Had one year head on one side of the motor, and another year head that looked way different on the other side, but it ran smooth as could be. Wonder what happened to that one too, sold it to some city slicker. I didn't know there was a 6.0 specific forum, they'll have to really help me out when it comes to that code stuff. I'm afraid I'm a bit technology challenged when it comes to apps and stuff. Maybe I'll get the Missus to help some, she does all that stuff.
$20 Figures Ford marks it up 5x across the counter.
Yeah, 18 dollars is right affordable. Reminds me of a prescription I went to fill last week. My regular drug store was 500 dollars, while a store across the MO line was 38 dollars. That should be criminal IMHO.