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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Power Steering Leak?

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Old Dec 13, 2016 | 01:42 PM
  #46  
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Turned the truck on and it ran at a super high idle. I disconnected the choke and tried again, but got the same result. The throttle is not stuck and everything seems to be working fine on the carb. It began to run so high it flipped my alternator belt. What do I need to look for to fix this? It was not doing it a couple of days ago when I started it. It is raining today, but that probably has nothing to do with it.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2016 | 01:43 PM
  #47  
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Oh, and a 1 1/4" pipe works for knocking the seals in. A 1 1/2" is to big.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2016 | 01:57 PM
  #48  
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"Turned the truck on" implies nothing more than turning the key on... what you are describing is a result of starting the engine, not merely "turning the truck on."

Just trying to point out that precision is sometimes necessary in your desriptions.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2016 | 02:02 PM
  #49  
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Started the engine. Otherwise the belts would not have been flipped.

Point taken though. I will try to be more precise with my explanations in the future.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2016 | 02:48 PM
  #50  
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No matter how far I backed out the idle screw it would never get below 1400 RPM in N. After running for 30 minutes it is now at 500 RPM. What caused that?
 
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Old Dec 13, 2016 | 03:40 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by hharris8
No matter how far I backed out the idle screw it would never get below 1400 RPM in N. After running for 30 minutes it is now at 500 RPM. What caused that?
My guess.........the choke.
You were most likely backing off the idle speed screw. Some carbs also have a "choke" fast idle set screw. It is on the other side from the where the idle speed screw is.
Dave ----
 
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Old Dec 13, 2016 | 04:06 PM
  #52  
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Is there anything I should do to keep it from happening again?
 
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Old Dec 13, 2016 | 04:22 PM
  #53  
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Sounds to me like your choke needs adjusting pretty badly.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2016 | 08:09 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by ctubutis
Sounds to me like your choke needs adjusting pretty badly.
I would have to agree....adrress the choke.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2016 | 07:25 AM
  #55  
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Ok. I have never done that so I may start a new thread when I get to it. Currently it is just set on factory settings.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2016 | 09:22 AM
  #56  
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I put the Pitman arm back on and tightened tie the lock washer flattened which made the bolt go past the bottom of the study by about 1/2-1/4" so far. How much tighter do I get it? I do not have a socket that large so I am using a 24" crescent wrench and I cannot do an exact ftlb unless absolutely necessary and then I can order/get the socket.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2016 | 10:17 AM
  #57  
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I saw 170-230 ftlb so I tightened till it was good and snug (still not at 170 though). This is what it looks like after tightening. Also the tires still seem flared. Will that correct?
 
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Old Dec 14, 2016 | 10:19 AM
  #58  
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Forgot the pics.




 
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Old Dec 14, 2016 | 01:03 PM
  #59  
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It seems to have more of a positive caster than before. I put a square across the tire and measured the angle and it was between 8 and 10 degrees.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2016 | 01:36 PM
  #60  
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Since the tie rods are attached to the middle of the tire I do not know how it could change the caster even if the pitman arm was put on in a different place. The pitman arm slid on the first inch or so without any force and if it goes on only one way then this could not have changed. To push it up further I used the bolt, but it was not hard to turn. I do not know how this could have changed anything. I now have the pitman arm tightened very tight. If I drive it around will they straighten out maybe? If this happens the pitman arm may need to be retightened.
 
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