yeah, i've already gotten the plug in type trailer connections a while ago, because the one wired it didn't work the trialer turns. The guy had one of those trailer hitch lights, and added turn sigs. SOunds like I'm spending tommorow ripping out some wires, and testing em all. All in all the trucks an electrical nightmare, at least to me who's not too knowledgable on it. Thanx

 

bcf,

Thanks for the input on the location of the hazard .. yeah, that "squarish" thing really threw me off. I follow your post on finding the actual hazard.

I replaced my turn signal flasher with a heavy duty one, and will do the same for the hazard once I locate it. I spent maybe $8-9 for an electronic flasher (versus the cheaper heat? type , but I need to run more lights with the trailer).

As far as your further electrical problems goes, I'm not that advanced to figure it out; however I would say take the time to rip it out and re-do it so YOU know how its configured. Yeah .. it can be a project, but at least get back to the original without trailer wiring, then add it back.

Hope that helps,

rlp

 

Are your flashers #552? Mine is, and I couldn't find the heavy duty one. Is it a different number? I just looked at all of them, and the blades sticking out weren't the same. I
m gonna try hooking those handle lights up to the parking lights, and rip all the other junk out. You're right, a nize project for me, but very beneficial in the end. thanx

 

The HD has same spade locations and circumference but may be taller. I'm not sure if the number is the same. 552 sounds right but I'll have to look in my truck. My F350 has one on fuse box and one also in same place (wiring plug) but above (behind) fuse box.

 

I found the rascal (hazard flasher); 552 by Wagner, green, with Ford printed on it- possibly the original. It was as bcf described - attached to the frame in a weird way. I had to use a flashlight to probe around, and finally caught a glimpse of it. I removed it more by feel than by sight. I replaced it with Tridon Stant #EL12, heavy duty electronic flasher, $9. There were some other cheaper ones, also heavy duty, and they were the heat type $3 or so.

After replacing it, I'm still getting intermittant no flashing - seems to come and go. I fiddled with the hazard switch -may be something there, or corroded connector in the flasher still.


That "squarish" relay seems to be connected to a switch activated by closing/opening the glove box door - maybe for a light?

Forgot to mention, are you testing the flashers with the trailer wired or un-wired? I still have a pesky ground wire problem on the trailer itself, comes and goes, so I always start troubleshooting un-wired to trailer.

 

I replaced the old one with an electronic heavy duty for running my trailer lights.


does this compensate for faulty wiring or what ?
if a system dont perform properly with stock stuff ,,, shouldnt we be fixing it with stock stuff ?
bad ground is always the answer for funky blinking.
steady blink on the dash indicator means bulb out.
Mine blinks faster and faster until the fuse blows.
Bad ground or flasher ?
I be hooking up a "seven round" connection.
I get brakes, turns but no running lights. Also the brakes arent working either.I just got the trailer and dont know if the brakes even work.I want to check for voltage, what should it be ? How do i check that signal? Hit brake pedal while checking ? or how bout i ride on the hitch while someone drives it ? yeah !
anyway, befor i do the brakes i want to get the lights working.
I think i have the wrong pin for the brake sig.
Why do i have a seven pin on this trailer ?
ground,brake,left,right, is all i can acount for. no running or reverse, and there is still the brake signal. I read there is two other circuits to be used in addition.
I will try to post pictures of this setup.Does anyone know what pin does what ? or is it different for everyone

 

The pin can be different depending on who wires it up. Most connectors come with instructions and diagram. I try to use proper size and colored wires if I don't use a plug in type wiring. There should be voltage for running/clearance lights as well. This leaves 2 pins open. One is for the electronic trailer brake controller and the other can be Auxillary for interior lighting or DC refrigerator or really anything you want to add that doesn't overload the circuit. Nothing has to be there. All manufacturers of plugs do not have to follow a set guideline as to which light circuit goes to which pin. I wire all my trucks and trailers same. If not one might blink left and the other right. Also anyone can borrow my trailer and if their truck is wired like mine, the lights will work. All manuf. may be standard now but I know that they weren't some time back. I always double check. Many offroad/towing/horse mags have had articles about wiring that have diagrams. You can try to search or just buy a new plug for a trailer (male, you'll need one someday) and it'll have diagram.

I check for signal with multi-tester voltmeter (digital <$20). Each circuit needs tested at the bumper plug. You can use ground pin once you locate it. Some light circuits use < 12v. If they test okay, the truck is wired right. You just need someone to use signal or step on brakes when you are ready to test. Then you get the trailer plug wired to match the truck. Then test circuits that don't work or change bulbs.

If I find a diagram (I know that I got one somewhere) I'll post it. There should be something listed in our towing or tech section though.

 

This may help while testing the wiring;

I went to the wrecker and pulled a side marker light assembly. I put in a new bulb and cut the wires. I put a large allegator clip on the ground wire, a small one on the hot wire. The wires are about 5 foot long - a very large test light.

All I need to do is hook the ground wire to the frame, and the hot wire to the circuit I want to test (left turn sig etc.). If you need to probe a wire, just use a safety pin in the clip. Drop the light down by the tire facing the front and go turn the signal on, hit the brakes etc.. This makes it easy to see, day or night by myself.


BTW - the HD flashers are made to compensate for the added load of the trailer or accessory lights (similar to a larger breaker).

 

Most plugs have designated pins for each circuit. Pull out the small retainer screw on male or female plug and just pull it out. On the back where the wires go into the plug are generally letters standing for the different circuits (e.g. LT would be left turn and arrow would be right after the T pointing to the correct hole for the left turn wire to be connected. I generally strip twice as much wire and double it before I put it in. This way the wire is less likely to pull out. This is not always possible if you run a very large wire gauge for example to the trailer brake feed. If you still need a diagram, just ask and I can try to find/scan/post one.

 

Sorry guys, this was the best one I could find. Ignore the C word.