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Is it a 110/120V motor or a 220/240V? Do you have the matching capacitor for that motor? Can you still read the sticker on that motor?
The motor data plate is still present and fully legible. It's a 120v single phase motor and the corresponding PSC start/run capacitor is present. I connected the neutral wire to an extension cord and then individually tested the three wires that controls the speed of the blower motor. All three blower speeds work. Even at the lowest setting, it moves a lot of air and even when it's on high, it's relatively quite while running.
The motor data plate is still present and fully legible. It's a 120v single phase motor and the corresponding PSC start/run capacitor is present. I connected the neutral wire to an extension cord and then individually tested the three wires that controls the speed of the blower motor. All three blower speeds work. Even at the lowest setting, it moves a lot of air and even when it's on high, it's relatively quite while running.
Ultra not sure if you are still looking for that air cleaner, but I am positive it is still on a truck out here in my local JY. Let me know if you are interested. May be making a run there in the next couple of days.
Ultra not sure if you are still looking for that air cleaner, but I am positive it is still on a truck out here in my local JY. Let me know if you are interested. May be making a run there in the next couple of days.
Is this a round, dry element air cleaner (non-oil bath) and is it on Bumpside truck with a 240 or 300?
The only remaining piece of my original air cleaner assembly that I have is the component that attaches around the exhaust manifold (9A603 in the diagram I previously posted in this thread). However, it's a little deteriorated on one part of it and really needs to be replaced.
I don't have the 'stove pipe' (part 9652 shown in the diagram) and of course the air cleaner itself is long gone.
I would be interested in the air cleaner assembly --particularly if all three of these pieces are present.
You don't have to make a special trip to the wrecking yard on my account but, if you're planning to go out there for your own purposes and could take some photos of the air cleaner assembly while you're there, that would be great.
Those squirrel cage blowers do make nice quite HO fans. If it has a large area to cover, try putting a snout on it, 8-12" long.
I just got through finishing up with making the remaining frame pieces and assembling them onto the blower housing --still needs a power cord and a speed selector switch but, it does work.
It won't do anything about the high humidity here in the summertime but, it should make it more tolerable in the shop when I'm working on the Bump.
The slotted 'tilt' bracket on the landing gear is the only pre-fabbed piece on the blower framework I made. It was a component from some surplus conveyor parts they were throwing away at work so, I grabbed them.
Just prior to finding these brackets on Tuesday, I was trying to figure out how I was going to make the blower/frame tilt. When I saw these pieces about to go in the scrap metal dumpster, it was clear I had found the solution of what I could use to do this with --the best part is they were free too.
ultra, I haven't had a chance to get out there, but I will be going on Monday. I need to check for a couple of parts for the boy's truck before surgery in a couple of weeks. I am almost positive it was what you were looking for. I will shoot you a PM about it for further info.
ultra, I haven't had a chance to get out there, but I will be going on Monday. I need to check for a couple of parts for the boy's truck before surgery in a couple of weeks. I am almost positive it was what you were looking for. I will shoot you a PM about it for further info.
Today's episode was to start cleaning up a front disc brake suspension I pulled from a '75 F100, back in late December.
'75 F100 front discs/suspension shown in the bed of the truck, after I got home with it from the wrecking yard.
I started breaking the suspension down to begin the task of scraping/wire wheeling the grime off before bead blasting the components.
When I took the kingpin caps off the spindle and saw that it had nylon bushings, I thought the kingpin would push right out of the spindle --NOT!! After applying copious amounts of penetrating oil, I tried using a brass drift and a 32 oz hammer, the brass drift and a 10 lb sledge hammer and, I even put it my my 20-ton shop press and it's still not having it. Eventually, I will prevail though in getting them apart, to get the spindle and the I-beam cleaned up.
Right hand radius arm before.
After I wire wheeled and bead blasted it.
A coat of primer applied so the radius arm won't start surface rusting (it's already getting humid around here and it rained today).
I have to do a little work on the dust shield before I finish bead blasting it. Eventually, the rest of the parts will be nice and clean too.