Is the socket needed to get the rear hub off the 4 prong hub socket? Also does anyone happen to know what the advanced auto off brand hub seals numbers are? all I can figure is this one National Oil Bath Seal 370247A: Advance Auto Parts




Thanks.

 

Surly someone has had to take the rear hub off their truck and replace the two seals.

 

Yes, the socket is OTC 6601.
Don't know about those national seals but maybe see if you can cross ref them.

 

That is the correct tool.
I can get the Ford part number for the 10.5".






Sean


6.0L Tech Folder

 

Yeah I called about those yesterday at a great $47 a piece.

 

Make sure to use the code at Advance. Good for on-line purchase only. You need to spend $50 or more and it's good for 30% off up to $150 purchase. Use it multiple times, just check out when you get to $150, then do it again. TRT30, works on most stuff, do in store pick up.

I've even went to the store, got the guy to look the part up, used the code on my phone and ordered the part and then waited a few minutes, he gets the order and had the part sitting on the counter as we talked.

 

We did a few hundred, always used the Ford seal. SRW and DRW are not that different unless your dealing with rotor.

I've got unorganized pictures of DRW work in my Facebook page if it helps.

 

Yeah that's what I did. The guy asked me why I broke the orders up for all the parts I just chuckled. Doesn't look like to bad of a job. Will the hub come off with force or do I need some sort or puller?

 

May come off by hand but the Workshop Manual says you might need a puller to get
the collar off the tube.

I added most if not all the relevant PDFs from the Workshop Manual for you. I just happened
to have them handy for some project coming up. Just waiting on a tiny order to get here. But
it's more just me putting it off. The last job did a number on my elbow and it being slow to heal.
Nothing like sore over worked tendons.



Sean


6.0L Tech Folder

 

Thanks for the info I will print them out. I am going to tackle this as soon as I get off work in the morning.

 

The tool is required for removal and installation as well as setting the correct bearing preload.

The seal is kinda like the front knuckle seal, it will get destroyed during removal so a new one is always required. When I did one of mine for the first time I damaged the oil slinger. I straighten it up as good as I could and put it all back together. A year later it started to get chewed up and took out the seal and was leaking gear oil. So I had to do the job again this time replacing both bearings and races. I will always use a new oil slinger from now on.

Just curious what problem are you.having?

 

Rear caliper locked up on the interstate. Fried everything back their and the dust shield crumbled to pieces.

 

That may not be the rear caliper but the drum in hat parking brake locking up if the plate is FUBAR.

 

Yeah I'm sure the parking break release when the shield fell apart. Super heated everything so figured I would replace it all.

 

Ouch

I did the backing plate and parking brake shoes also. Rebuilding the whole hub with bearings and everything was really not that bad. I used a race/seal driver to install the races. Also put the races the freezer and heated the hub a little before installation.

Good luck

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