Painting rusty core support question
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 2,240
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Painting rusty core support question
So I've been sanding down my core support and have most of it down to clean metal however there are some hard to reach areas with rust and paint and some pitting from rust. What's the best way to paint this support so I don't have rust come back? I've put a lot of elbow grease into this and really don't want to have to do it twice. Should I put some sort of rust converter on the rust I can't get to then primer and paint? Thanks for the help, paint and rust aren't my forte
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 575
Likes: 6
From: Knoxville, TN
Having it blasted in the first place is hind sight......if that option is available to you, get it done every time. Worth it in my opinion so your not spending hours getting "most" of it off. Around here that'd cost about $50 to blast at the local shops....if you don't have local shops, spray the rust crap and get many different size brass and stainless bottle brushes to help get into those areas and get crap out. Then either epoxy primmer or use rustoleum type primmer to seal in anything you couldn't get to before painting.....
BTW....good job. That's a lot of time and elbow grease used to get the core support looking that good...
BTW....good job. That's a lot of time and elbow grease used to get the core support looking that good...
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,238
Likes: 475
I think I see heavy corrosion and possibly a crack in the second to last picture, which could mean rust in the internal structure coming through.
Short of cutting it out and replacing it, the only real way to stop it is to submerge the whole thing in a rust neutralizer. Build a frame of 2x6s to contain it, line it with plastic or a tarp. Get some phosphoric acid based rust solution. I use Kleenstrip prep and etch, instructions are on the bottle how to use it. I think it gets mixed 4:1 water/ etch and then soak for 24 hrs. Pull it out, rinse and blow dry. It'll leave a zinc coating on the steel, ready to be scuffed and primed.
Using a rust neutralizer on the exterior, then oiling the internal parts after paint would probably keep it at bay, but it'll always be there, slowly growing.
I HATE RUST!
Short of cutting it out and replacing it, the only real way to stop it is to submerge the whole thing in a rust neutralizer. Build a frame of 2x6s to contain it, line it with plastic or a tarp. Get some phosphoric acid based rust solution. I use Kleenstrip prep and etch, instructions are on the bottle how to use it. I think it gets mixed 4:1 water/ etch and then soak for 24 hrs. Pull it out, rinse and blow dry. It'll leave a zinc coating on the steel, ready to be scuffed and primed.
Using a rust neutralizer on the exterior, then oiling the internal parts after paint would probably keep it at bay, but it'll always be there, slowly growing.
I HATE RUST!
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,238
Likes: 475
Having it blasted in the first place is hind sight......if that option is available to you, get it done every time. Worth it in my opinion so your not spending hours getting "most" of it off. Around here that'd cost about $50 to blast at the local shops....if you don't have local shops, spray the rust crap and get many different size brass and stainless bottle brushes to help get into those areas and get crap out. Then either epoxy primmer or use rustoleum type primmer to seal in anything you couldn't get to before painting.....
Ft
BTW....good job. That's a lot of time and elbow grease used to get the core support looking that good...
Ft
BTW....good job. That's a lot of time and elbow grease used to get the core support looking that good...
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 2,240
Likes: 23
I don't have any local shops around me, might see if there's one around my folks. Was trying to do it myself/on a budget. I thought it would cost a lot more than that. I'll do some calling and see. What looks like a crack" is actually the end of another piece of metal that ends, it's solid but that corner is rusty.
Thanks it was a lot of effort lol and all for naught if I find a place by my folks to blast but ya live and ya learn and I'd rather not fight rust again.
On to my next question, is there a preferred paint for do-it-yourself?
Thanks it was a lot of effort lol and all for naught if I find a place by my folks to blast but ya live and ya learn and I'd rather not fight rust again.
On to my next question, is there a preferred paint for do-it-yourself?
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2015
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Originally Posted by c391d
I just had mine blasted a couple weeks ago. Only cost $35. Then sprayed it with Eastwoods satin chassis extreme black. Turned out great. Well worth it on a piece like the radiator support.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2015
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Likes: 23
Originally Posted by speedfreak78
I think I see heavy corrosion and possibly a crack in the second to last picture, which could mean rust in the internal structure coming through.
Short of cutting it out and replacing it, the only real way to stop it is to submerge the whole thing in a rust neutralizer. Build a frame of 2x6s to contain it, line it with plastic or a tarp. Get some phosphoric acid based rust solution. I use Kleenstrip prep and etch, instructions are on the bottle how to use it. I think it gets mixed 4:1 water/ etch and then soak for 24 hrs. Pull it out, rinse and blow dry. It'll leave a zinc coating on the steel, ready to be scuffed and primed.
Using a rust neutralizer on the exterior, then oiling the internal parts after paint would probably keep it at bay, but it'll always be there, slowly growing.
I HATE RUST!
Short of cutting it out and replacing it, the only real way to stop it is to submerge the whole thing in a rust neutralizer. Build a frame of 2x6s to contain it, line it with plastic or a tarp. Get some phosphoric acid based rust solution. I use Kleenstrip prep and etch, instructions are on the bottle how to use it. I think it gets mixed 4:1 water/ etch and then soak for 24 hrs. Pull it out, rinse and blow dry. It'll leave a zinc coating on the steel, ready to be scuffed and primed.
Using a rust neutralizer on the exterior, then oiling the internal parts after paint would probably keep it at bay, but it'll always be there, slowly growing.
I HATE RUST!
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 2,240
Likes: 23
Originally Posted by mikeo0o0o0
I blasted mine at home with a "cheapie" 100 lb sandblaster from Harbor freight.
If a shop can do it for $35 I'll hop on that for now and keep the blaster on the back burner for the future
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 14,333
Likes: 247
From: Stanley, VA
Actually, that one is the current model. The one I have they don't offer any more. I like mine because it doesn't require a funnel to fill the tank with sand. The top end is inverted, making it it's own funnel.
Here's the one I used.
Here's the one I used.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 2,553
Likes: 10
It looks like it is pretty well cleaned up. To paint "as is" I would suggest red Rustoleum primer. It is available in spray bomb or can for a sprayer. If you use a sprayer, reduce it just enough with paint thinner so it sprays OK. Then the enamel topcoat of your choice.
The red Rustoleum sticks well to both clean and prepped rusty steel. You have both thus the suggestion.
The red Rustoleum sticks well to both clean and prepped rusty steel. You have both thus the suggestion.
