Non-Ford Engine Question
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2014
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From: Memphis
Non-Ford Engine Question
OK, so this is not related to a Ford. Full disclosure.
But you folks are much more helpful than people I have encountered on Jeep forums.
I have a 1976 CJ5 with a 232 straight-6. Carter 1-BBL YF Carb. It's got a charcoal canister for catching gas vapor. Electronic ignition.
Engine cold-starts just fine. Choke needed adjustment, but I think I have that sorted out (assume that I do). It will run fine at low idle, and it will run at curb idle - at least for a while.
After a time, it will suddenly just die. Almost like you killed the ignition switch. It will NOT restart. I would say that the needle is clogged, but if I wait 15 min, it will crank back up.
What would be your troubleshooting list? Thanks!
But you folks are much more helpful than people I have encountered on Jeep forums.
I have a 1976 CJ5 with a 232 straight-6. Carter 1-BBL YF Carb. It's got a charcoal canister for catching gas vapor. Electronic ignition.
Engine cold-starts just fine. Choke needed adjustment, but I think I have that sorted out (assume that I do). It will run fine at low idle, and it will run at curb idle - at least for a while.
After a time, it will suddenly just die. Almost like you killed the ignition switch. It will NOT restart. I would say that the needle is clogged, but if I wait 15 min, it will crank back up.
What would be your troubleshooting list? Thanks!
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 5,831
Likes: 121
From: St Albert, Alberta
OK, so this is not related to a Ford. Full disclosure.
But you folks are much more helpful than people I have encountered on Jeep forums.
I have a 1976 CJ5 with a 232 straight-6. Carter 1-BBL YF Carb. It's got a charcoal canister for catching gas vapor. Electronic ignition.
Engine cold-starts just fine. Choke needed adjustment, but I think I have that sorted out (assume that I do). It will run fine at low idle, and it will run at curb idle - at least for a while.
After a time, it will suddenly just die. Almost like you killed the ignition switch. It will NOT restart. I would say that the needle is clogged, but if I wait 15 min, it will crank back up.
What would be your troubleshooting list? Thanks!
But you folks are much more helpful than people I have encountered on Jeep forums.
I have a 1976 CJ5 with a 232 straight-6. Carter 1-BBL YF Carb. It's got a charcoal canister for catching gas vapor. Electronic ignition.
Engine cold-starts just fine. Choke needed adjustment, but I think I have that sorted out (assume that I do). It will run fine at low idle, and it will run at curb idle - at least for a while.
After a time, it will suddenly just die. Almost like you killed the ignition switch. It will NOT restart. I would say that the needle is clogged, but if I wait 15 min, it will crank back up.
What would be your troubleshooting list? Thanks!
Ignition first. Are you running any after market ignition ? IE Petronix.
usually when you get shut off a cool down and then restart it is most of the time electronics related.
Also I believe the Jeeps used the Ford Duraspark II ignition in this era.
Next time it does it check for spark. If you have no spark suspect Dist pick up or ignition module.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
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From: Phoenix, Az.
2X Matt. I also thought ignition module or the stator in the Dizzy. But I don't think it's true Ford EEC. Ford style I would think.
EDIT
Next time it stalls carefully feel the module to be real HOT. If so that's your problem. Also check the stator in the Dizzy to be moving around.
EDIT
Next time it stalls carefully feel the module to be real HOT. If so that's your problem. Also check the stator in the Dizzy to be moving around.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 4,093
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From: Lind, WA- Eastern WA
I agree with matthewq4b, sure sounds like the electronics are overheating, since it takes about 15 minutes before it will restart. Many of the Duraspark(or MSD) ignition boxes require that you either relocate them (to a cooler location) or buy some sort or spacers/rubber feet(to raise the box-so more air circulates under/around the box) or make a duct to force air(from the rad fan) around the box.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 5,831
Likes: 121
From: St Albert, Alberta
2X Matt. I also thought ignition module or the stator in the Dizzy. But I don't think it's true Ford EEC. Ford style I would think.
EDIT
Next time it stalls carefully feel the module to be real HOT. If so that's your problem. Also check the stator in the Dizzy to be moving around.
EDIT
Next time it stalls carefully feel the module to be real HOT. If so that's your problem. Also check the stator in the Dizzy to be moving around.
Ya definitely not Duraspark lol. I know AMC used the DSII on some of their V8's
This one however is a Prestolite electronic ignition system. They were not popular. (for good reason lol)
Back in the day it was popular to convert the Prestolite distributors to use the Chrysler Electronic ignition system. That was before the advent of stuff like Peteronix.
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If it stumbles before it dies, check the fuel filter(s). If it has a lot of debris or rust in it, the suction from the fuel pump will suck it to the filter media and starve the engine. After it sits, the debris will fall back and the engine will start again.
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I agree with matthewq4b, sure sounds like the electronics are overheating, since it takes about 15 minutes before it will restart. Many of the Duraspark(or MSD) ignition boxes require that you either relocate them (to a cooler location) or buy some sort or spacers/rubber feet(to raise the box-so more air circulates under/around the box) or make a duct to force air(from the rad fan) around the box.
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From: Memphis
Distributor is pretty similar, though not identical. Module looks totally different, but, like I said, I know it's aftermarket based on the lack of age on it.
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Senior User
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From: Memphis
I agree with matthewq4b, sure sounds like the electronics are overheating, since it takes about 15 minutes before it will restart. Many of the Duraspark(or MSD) ignition boxes require that you either relocate them (to a cooler location) or buy some sort or spacers/rubber feet(to raise the box-so more air circulates under/around the box) or make a duct to force air(from the rad fan) around the box.
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From: Memphis
Stumbles a bit, but not much. At least not like a gas tank running dry where it will sputter, come back, sputter, come back, then die. Once it starts to go, it's gone. So... maybe.
I think the charcoal canister is worth going over in any event, if only to rule it out. As far as I can see, that's the only fuel filter. There's supposed to be an inline filter, but I haven't found it yet, if it exists.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: St Albert, Alberta
And a lot of the replacement parts now come from China and some can be of questionable quality to say the least..
Here is the stock Prestolite dist for your application
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Phoenix, Az.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 5,831
Likes: 121
From: St Albert, Alberta
Good thought.
Stumbles a bit, but not much. At least not like a gas tank running dry where it will sputter, come back, sputter, come back, then die. Once it starts to go, it's gone. So... maybe.
I think the charcoal canister is worth going over in any event, if only to rule it out. As far as I can see, that's the only fuel filter. There's supposed to be an inline filter, but I haven't found it yet, if it exists.
Stumbles a bit, but not much. At least not like a gas tank running dry where it will sputter, come back, sputter, come back, then die. Once it starts to go, it's gone. So... maybe.
I think the charcoal canister is worth going over in any event, if only to rule it out. As far as I can see, that's the only fuel filter. There's supposed to be an inline filter, but I haven't found it yet, if it exists.
Next time it quits check for spark. No spark ignition system. If you have spark pull the air cleaner and lever the throttle while looking down the throat of the carb to see if you have fuel. You will at least rule out where the problem is.