let me start off with, the trucks a 96 with a zf5.

ive googled it, used the search function, etc... but i am trying to wire the ebpv to work as a exhaust brake. my plan is to disconnect it from the PCM, making it fully manual. i would like to wire it into the throttle so it comes on when the i let off the peddle, the same way as a semi. i also thought about wiring it in with the clutch peddle, using the safety switch since it is disconnected, but that seems like a lot of unnecessary effort.

my plan is to use a lighted rocker switch to control it, with it wired into the Idle Verification Switch (IVS) my understanding is, the IVS gives off a 12v signal when the throttle is open, once the throttle goes to the idle position, the switch gives off no signal.

my wiring schematic (or something like that) as shown

Idle Verification Switch
l
l
12V KO source-toggle switch-relay-solenoid

but, im stumped. i need a relay, that opens when current is NOT being applied from the IVS (throttle closed) whats this type of relay called? does anyone have a oriellys or napa part number?

i hope this all makes sense, and my typed out diagram posts right. feel free to make any other suggestions, and yes, ill post pictures of this whole project if i remember. going to try and tackle it tomorrow if i can figure out the relay.

as usual, thanks guys. you all rock!

 

i think i fixed the wiring diagram. im not very good with computers.....

 

I would just mount a separate micro switch to the pedal for the relay. I did that months ago to help edumacate a driver that drove with 2 feet and rode the brakes.

 

you need a normally open relay which is pretty much standard

 

Most relays under the hood have 5 pins, 2 for the solenoid, 1 common, 1 normally open, and 1 normally closed. Put power to the solenoid and the relay cycles open>closed and closed>open.


Introduction to Automotive Relays | GTSparkplugs


So 12v from the IVS to pin 86 and pin 85 to ground. Switched 12v key on power to pin 30 and pin 87a to the EBPV. Done!

 

This ^^^^^^ . You need a normally CLOSED relay, not normally OPEN.

But that means the EBPV will be closed at all times that you're idling, so just sitting at a light or at initial startup. Dunno if that might cause any EGT issues, but it sure would be irritating to hear that whooosssshhh sound every time you come to a light. And what about the times you want to actually coast without exhaust braking? Wouldn't it be better just to wire it to the brake pedal switch? That way, just a light touch on the brake pedal, enough to turn the brake lights on but not enough to create any brake pressure, would activate it.

The ultimate would be a rheostatic control, so you can vary the voltage going to the actuator just the way the PCM (IIRC) does, and close the valve just as much or as little as you want, depending on the situation.

 

Here is a good write up about exhaust brake, maybe helps something.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...-write-up.html

 

ok, thanks guys. the toggle switch will control wether the brake is able to come on, switch on = brake with throttle at idle. switch off= no brake. i dont want to wire it in with my brake pedal because i fear my trailer brakes may get to hot to fast. my controller starts applying them as soon as you tap the pedal. its a nice feature most of the time, but... it wouldnt work real well for this situation.

 

im fixin to start in on this project. pictures to come.

 

Yep, toggle or push/pull switch would keep it from staying on all the time.

 

Ah yes, wise prudent choice.....

 

well boys, i got it wired up. havent started the truck and tried it yet (ID10T problem, expensive one at that), but i have power where i want it when i want it.

step one was finding where i wanted to tie into to trigger the relay to send the juice to the ebpv to shut it. i tapped into the orange wire on this plug, their are only two wires. orange is hot when throttle is pressed. brown is constant hot. see first picture.

second we have some of the goodies used in this mess, zipties, 14ga wire, 5 pin relay (can be wired normal open or normal close), scotch locks, but connectors, fuse tap, clip connectors, lighted toggle switch. for tools, cordless drill, wire crimpers, stripers, plies, torx screw driver, a couple sockets and extensions, along with a bit to much of favorite adult beverage (you can choose your own). (2nd pic)

next i removed the gray panel under the steering column to make room to work, it probably isnt necessary, but it makes it a lot easier.

next i chose where to mount the toggle, for me, it was next to the cig lighter under the ac controls in front of the shifter. i went ahead and attached the wires to the toggle at this point. (pic 3 and 4)

now, i needed a suitable ground for my relay and toggle (its lighted, remember) i already had my gauges grounded to the throttle bracket, so i put it all in a 10 ga. crimp on connector, taped it up to make sure it stays tight, and tossed a bit of dielectric grease on it for safe measure. (pic 5)

next i found a suitable location to tap into the juice. i chose a fuse tap and fuse #3. i made sure it plugged in and unplugged it. (pic 6)

next i started connecting the wires into the relay, i used a scotch lock to tap into the orange wire on the go pedal, then ran the wire up to the relay. attached the ground, wire to switch, wire to solenoid, and fed the wire through the firewall with all the other aftermarket stuff. (pic 7)

now i found the plug for the EBPV. i unplugged it, and cut the Gray wire with the red strip, and spliced into it going towards the EBPV. using a but connector. doing it this way, removes the EBPV from the ecm and eliminates the need for diodes, since it is now only connected by ground to the factory wiring. (pic 8)

HERE IS THE PART I DO NOT RECCOMMEND DOING....
be sure while you are connecting the wire into the EBPV to lay your wire crimpers on the glow plug relay. it will throw some sparks, melt some wires, and start a grease fire. (pic 9) i thought the only damage was the wiring.

i patched up the wiring, and we are off to the races i hope... (pic 10)

so i go to start the truck, to try out my new engine brake. i crank on it and crank on it, nothing. cycle plugs, everything clicks, everything appears to be working right. i kept cranking. finally i figured i oughta double check the wiring, all the wiring looks good, but their is oil in the valley. after much head scratchin and and having someone crank the truck while i watched i found a hole in the HPOP line going to the passenger side head. pulled it off, capped the openings, and off to the stealership i go in the morning.

ill see if i can get the pictures uploaded in a few.

 

im giving up on the pictures for tonight.... LOL. computers are good at outsmarting me

 

Ooooopsiieeeee..... This ^^^^^^, BTW, is why there is (or at least there SHOULD be) a boot over the always-hot large terminal of the GPR and the starter relay.

 

well, the boot was there im sure at one point in time, but... not now. LOL. anyway, ford didnt have the hoses and i needed the truck, so ran down to the elevator and whipped one up out of 5400psi hose, supposedly rated for high temp. guess we will see how it fairs. LOL. brake works quite well unloaded, havent gave it a go with the trailer on. im sure i will test it in a week or so.