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Hi Guys
been getting used to the 65 F250 and must say I love it!
Quick question my fe 360 has a distributor with a Crane electronic module, but NO vacuum advance?
is this a usual mod? cant say I have ever seen it before.
Odd thing is that it starts and runs great (but does eat a lot of fuel).
I was considering getting a HEI dizzy for it, but would prefer to keep it original.
Does anyone know if you can still get bits to re instate the vac can, bearing in mind that I cant get things from a scrap yard in the UK
Hi Guys
been getting used to the 65 F250 and must say I love it!
Quick question my fe 360 has a distributor with a Crane electronic module, but NO vacuum advance?
Are you sure it's a 360? If so, the engine has been swapped.
1965/67 F100/350 were only available with the 352 2V
As far as I am aware, the engine was rebuilt a couple of years ago in Bakersfield, and that time it was bored to 360.
It has a cast iron 4 barrel manifold and I think cam from a thunderbird, vac secondary Holley, twin straight through 60 MM. exhaust and hooker headers.
Currently trimming is set to 10 deg. Don't know much more about it
As far as I am aware, the engine was rebuilt a couple of years ago in Bakersfield, and that time it was bored to 360.
It has a cast iron 4 barrel manifold and I think cam from a thunderbird, vac secondary Holley, twin straight through 60 MM. exhaust and hooker headers.
Currently trimming is set to 10 deg. Don't know much more about it
Look at this link and see if this is the type of module you have. If it is you should have provisions for a vacuum advance canister. The advance canisters are available aftermarket. You really need a vacuum advance on the street. I would check and see how much centrifugal advance you have in your distributor now. Clean up your balancer and highlight the markings, you may have to add some marks yourself to get at least 35 degrees of marking on the balancer. Get a helper and a tachometer. Use your timing light and plot the curve in 500 RPM increments until it stops advancing. You need to subtract your initial timing from your readings to get the distributor crankshaft advance numbers. The stock 352 was 12.5 to 14 camshaft degrees at 2000 rpm. That would equal 25 to 28 crankshaft degrees at 2000. As long as your readings are no more than 30 to 32 degrees at 3000 to 3500 RPM you should be OK. The vacuum advance can't be checked with a timing light you have to tune that by driving and tweaking until it doesn't pink or surge. Here are some links. http://www.cranecams.com/uploads/ins...000-1700c_.pdf eCatalog