DYI Project - Upfitter Switched Power to Interior
#1
DYI Project - Upfitter Switched Power to Interior
Warning:
This is a 12 step program and might not be appropriate for everyone. Follow it (especially step 12) at you own risk!
Disclaimer:
I did this project myself and have a bit of knowledge of wiring and voltage. This does not mean you will be successful. I also can't guarantee that you won't cus, throw things, hurt yourself or end up in the hospital. I take no responsibility for the outcome if you attempt this yourself. I suggest that if you want a set-up like this, drive your SD to a qualified dealer and have them do it. Now, if you're too stubborn to heed my warnings, or you're fairly adept at these things, follow along.
Vehicle:
2017 F350 Lariat with Upfitter Switch Package (Part of Lariat Ultimate Package)
Project goal:
Power on Dash-Cam using Upfitter Switch Aux #1
Dash-Cam:
Rexing V1 - 2.4 LCD 1080p 170 Wide Angle Dash Cam
Wiring Kit:
12 vdc to 5vdc adapter and harness (special usb connector, not standard mini-usb)
Step #1:
Find the stubbed Upfitter switch bundle. Do not use the current printed manual or the html on-line version. As of this writing, they are both wrong and state the stubs are found behind the passenger kick-panel. This document is correct Q-252.
Step #2:
Puncture firewall grommets. There is a exterior membrane (engine compartment side) and an internal membrane (driver's side foot-well above main through harness). I used a small pocket knife and cut an "X" in each side.
Step #3: Feed a fish wire through grommets from inside towards engine compartment. I electrical taped a 16 gauge wire to the end of an eight inch Philips head screw driver. Make sure to wrap tape tightly a few times or the wire will get peeled off while trying to go through the grommets. Once through, tightly tape any additional wires you want to have in the interior. I'm going to add an add-on trailer TPMS and Radar Detector later, so I added two more wires (16 gauge).
From within the driver's foot-well:
Inside the engine compartment. Sorry so blurry, you get the idea though.
Step #4: Using the Q-252 doc, find the color code of the wire(s) for the Aux switch(es) you wish to use. Strip the appropriate wire. Now's a good time to check voltage and correct switch operation. Grab the wife, kid or neighbor and have them toggle the upfitter switch while you check for correct 12 vdc. Make sure you put the ignition in AC mode. Once it checks good, splice onto the wire(s) you fed from the interior. I wrapped and zip-tied my wire bundle to existing wiring harnesses to give support and hopefully keep them from rubbing anything. I also gave the wires a slight droop right out of the firewall grommet so any water/moisture does not wick towards the grommet.
Step #5: Remove driver's side kickpanel and air-conditioning vent cover on left side of dash. Use a panel removal tool or other appropriate tool (butter-knife for me). Put them somewhere where you won't step or sit on them.
Step #6: Route your interior wire bundle down along and behind emergency brake cable, Make sure that will does not be kicked or get in between any of you your pedal mechanisms. Continue your routing up into behind the dash where it will come out by the AC vent on the left side of the dash.
Along the Emergency Brake cable:
By the Emergency Brake Release:
Behind AC vent cover:
Step #8:
Now splice the hot-wire (usually red) from the equipment harness that connects to the device you are installing. Connect the device's ground (usually black wire) to the nicely placed copper-to-body grounding nut.
Copper grounding nut:
Step #9:
Plug in the device and test that it comes on and off when you toggle the appropriate Upfitter Aux Switch. If it works, you have all your fingers and have not been struck by lightning for taking the Lord's name in vain, proceed to wrapping this job up.
Step #10:
Starting at where the device will be mounted, tuck the cable into the interior panels between the windshield and paneling. Starting at the device mount point will allow you to bundle the excess wire behind the ac panel. Zip-tie the access and preferably tie to an existing bundle to reduce vibration wear.
By the Rear-view mirror:
Bundled and tied up behind AC panel:
Step #11:
Replace all of the panels that you removed, then mount and connect the device in the final desired location.
Step #12:
Go into the house, make an adult beverage, then return to the garage or shop. Put your 2017 SD into AC hot mode on the ignition. Take a sip and show the wife, kid or friend what you just accomplished. While they will probably yawn, you can be satisfied that you just finished the 2017 SD 12 step program for using the Upfitter Switches to power interior devices.
Finished Pic Again:
This is a 12 step program and might not be appropriate for everyone. Follow it (especially step 12) at you own risk!
Disclaimer:
I did this project myself and have a bit of knowledge of wiring and voltage. This does not mean you will be successful. I also can't guarantee that you won't cus, throw things, hurt yourself or end up in the hospital. I take no responsibility for the outcome if you attempt this yourself. I suggest that if you want a set-up like this, drive your SD to a qualified dealer and have them do it. Now, if you're too stubborn to heed my warnings, or you're fairly adept at these things, follow along.
Vehicle:
2017 F350 Lariat with Upfitter Switch Package (Part of Lariat Ultimate Package)
Project goal:
Power on Dash-Cam using Upfitter Switch Aux #1
Dash-Cam:
Rexing V1 - 2.4 LCD 1080p 170 Wide Angle Dash Cam
Wiring Kit:
12 vdc to 5vdc adapter and harness (special usb connector, not standard mini-usb)
Step #1:
Find the stubbed Upfitter switch bundle. Do not use the current printed manual or the html on-line version. As of this writing, they are both wrong and state the stubs are found behind the passenger kick-panel. This document is correct Q-252.
Step #2:
Puncture firewall grommets. There is a exterior membrane (engine compartment side) and an internal membrane (driver's side foot-well above main through harness). I used a small pocket knife and cut an "X" in each side.
Step #3: Feed a fish wire through grommets from inside towards engine compartment. I electrical taped a 16 gauge wire to the end of an eight inch Philips head screw driver. Make sure to wrap tape tightly a few times or the wire will get peeled off while trying to go through the grommets. Once through, tightly tape any additional wires you want to have in the interior. I'm going to add an add-on trailer TPMS and Radar Detector later, so I added two more wires (16 gauge).
From within the driver's foot-well:
Inside the engine compartment. Sorry so blurry, you get the idea though.
Step #4: Using the Q-252 doc, find the color code of the wire(s) for the Aux switch(es) you wish to use. Strip the appropriate wire. Now's a good time to check voltage and correct switch operation. Grab the wife, kid or neighbor and have them toggle the upfitter switch while you check for correct 12 vdc. Make sure you put the ignition in AC mode. Once it checks good, splice onto the wire(s) you fed from the interior. I wrapped and zip-tied my wire bundle to existing wiring harnesses to give support and hopefully keep them from rubbing anything. I also gave the wires a slight droop right out of the firewall grommet so any water/moisture does not wick towards the grommet.
Step #5: Remove driver's side kickpanel and air-conditioning vent cover on left side of dash. Use a panel removal tool or other appropriate tool (butter-knife for me). Put them somewhere where you won't step or sit on them.
Step #6: Route your interior wire bundle down along and behind emergency brake cable, Make sure that will does not be kicked or get in between any of you your pedal mechanisms. Continue your routing up into behind the dash where it will come out by the AC vent on the left side of the dash.
Along the Emergency Brake cable:
By the Emergency Brake Release:
Behind AC vent cover:
Step #8:
Now splice the hot-wire (usually red) from the equipment harness that connects to the device you are installing. Connect the device's ground (usually black wire) to the nicely placed copper-to-body grounding nut.
Copper grounding nut:
Step #9:
Plug in the device and test that it comes on and off when you toggle the appropriate Upfitter Aux Switch. If it works, you have all your fingers and have not been struck by lightning for taking the Lord's name in vain, proceed to wrapping this job up.
Step #10:
Starting at where the device will be mounted, tuck the cable into the interior panels between the windshield and paneling. Starting at the device mount point will allow you to bundle the excess wire behind the ac panel. Zip-tie the access and preferably tie to an existing bundle to reduce vibration wear.
By the Rear-view mirror:
Bundled and tied up behind AC panel:
Step #11:
Replace all of the panels that you removed, then mount and connect the device in the final desired location.
Step #12:
Go into the house, make an adult beverage, then return to the garage or shop. Put your 2017 SD into AC hot mode on the ignition. Take a sip and show the wife, kid or friend what you just accomplished. While they will probably yawn, you can be satisfied that you just finished the 2017 SD 12 step program for using the Upfitter Switches to power interior devices.
Finished Pic Again:
#2
As a note to my main post. If you are towing anything of size like a 5th wheel, you want to get yourself a dash-cam. A must-have if you ask me!
It is amazing how many times people pull out in front of me, especially on mountain roads. They see you coming, sit there a few seconds and think "shizza, I don't want to be stuck behind that big pig", so they pull out thinking you can easily slow down. If you talk to a Highway Patrol Officer or Insurance Agent, they'll tell you how hard it is to beat a rear-end end accident. You're almost always at fault for driving to fast for the conditions. If you can walk into court with a video, you win.
'Nuff said. Get one!
It is amazing how many times people pull out in front of me, especially on mountain roads. They see you coming, sit there a few seconds and think "shizza, I don't want to be stuck behind that big pig", so they pull out thinking you can easily slow down. If you talk to a Highway Patrol Officer or Insurance Agent, they'll tell you how hard it is to beat a rear-end end accident. You're almost always at fault for driving to fast for the conditions. If you can walk into court with a video, you win.
'Nuff said. Get one!
#3
I am also thinking on adding one into the back window of our trailer to catch the tailgaters should something happen. Besides you need one any more no matter what you drive people have no common sense any more, sometimes I think their brain just doesn't "click" when they see vehicle coming.
#4
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: North of Salt Lake City
Posts: 5,159
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24 Posts
Great post twack. Good to see others do the same things to their trucks. I was thinking how I wanted to power my dash cam and with the two extra upfitter switches I can put it there. Another one for reverse lights, another for onboard air compressor and another for the train horn. 2 to spare.
#7
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#10
I just bought this dash-cam new. First one I've had. I like it a lot They wife works where they have a lot of trucks and heavy equipment. The high usage trucks have dash-cams and it's saved their driver's from getting needless points and their insurance company a ton of money. Amazing how many people say "that huge truck just jumped sideways and hit me", when the video usually shows different.
#11
#12
#13
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is the one I just bought.....I will be installing it on my new build out!!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...new-build.html
This is the one I just bought.....I will be installing it on my new build out!!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...new-build.html
#14
#15
Shocker air horns
As a note to my main post. If you are towing anything of size like a 5th wheel, you want to get yourself a dash-cam. A must-have if you ask me!
It is amazing how many times people pull out in front of me, especially on mountain roads. They see you coming, sit there a few seconds and think "shizza, I don't want to be stuck behind that big pig", so they pull out thinking you can easily slow down. If you talk to a Highway Patrol Officer or Insurance Agent, they'll tell you how hard it is to beat a rear-end end accident. You're almost always at fault for driving to fast for the conditions. If you can walk into court with a video, you win.
'Nuff said. Get one!
It is amazing how many times people pull out in front of me, especially on mountain roads. They see you coming, sit there a few seconds and think "shizza, I don't want to be stuck behind that big pig", so they pull out thinking you can easily slow down. If you talk to a Highway Patrol Officer or Insurance Agent, they'll tell you how hard it is to beat a rear-end end accident. You're almost always at fault for driving to fast for the conditions. If you can walk into court with a video, you win.
'Nuff said. Get one!
Good advice on the CAM.
bigdon68