Something I worked on today. I noticed once I cut the fiberglass out that the rear doors aren't actually sealed and I can see daylight through cracks in the bottom so I'll probably have to take the trim back off to seal it up and install my external crossovers behind it. I'd like to have it hinged but not sure I care enough to do the work.
Amp is a 6 channel jl audio marine unit that can run all 3 sets of jl components as well as the Rockford 8" punch dvc sub I'm gonna put in the other door eventually.

Still more work to do. But it's a start.

 

I was very happy with the JL components that I used in the factory locations. I took my spare tire out and had a fiberglass box made for a 12" JL to look like the spare tire. I thought about using the barn doors for the sub, but was very concerned that it would rattle off. That sure is a big amp that you have there!

 

Nicely done!

 

Amp heat isn't going to be a problem with such tight quarters? Thought of doing this with mine, was discouraged due to the heat issues and thermal protection kicking in...

 

Depends on the amp. Jbl and jl amps can get really hot as others like dd and sundown barely get warm. Also depends on what ohm u are running it at. I run my solid audio(sundown internals) amps at .5 even my 4 ch and never gets warm.

 

I have seen that happen to lol. Cracked the fiberglass.

 

I'll be building a fiberglass enclosure for it and I'll deal with any rattles.
Amp is big, it's a class a/b 6 channel so it's got a lot of components, but it's smaller than two other amps of similar power that it would take to replace it. I originally had a 2 channel and a 4 channel slash series but didn't have enough room.

My jl components are 6.5" so the mods are mounted in modified factory locations and the external tweeters in the door panels. I did a wrote up on them years ago.
They were zr series but none of the zr mods remain. 3 went bad on me and the 4th started kicking in and out. The third row always had c2s I think. Now the four front positions have a mix of components. I replaced the front door tweeters with jl audio silk domes (c3 or c4 I believe) and xr crossovers as the zr ones went bad, the rear doors still have zr tweets and crossovers

They need a lot mpre power than the head unit can supply, though. And I miss a little bass.

I'm pretty busy but I'll finish it all in the next couple weeks.

 

Might want to add a fan in there some where to help pull out heat. A/b classed tend to get hot but nice part is that they tend to be better sound quality. also u tried building the speakers into a pod. I did that and my mid bass is really nice. Also if u want and know about eqing and adjusting the amp, you could run then active without the xovers. Thats what i did and u can get a little better sq out of them

 

There's no running active with six sets of components, too many channels would be required. I've done it before on other systems and the difference in sq in negligible, especially on a noisy diesel excursion. It's not a competition system. The factory system is substandard even for crappy factory systems so I've just been slowly upgrading it. I have two young kids so I don't need a ghetto blaster, I just can't hear the audio from the dvds with the windows down.

As for heat, I can pretty much guarantee you it would never overheat just the way it is now. I used to install car stereos and compete in iasca back when car stereo was made in the US and actually sounded decent so I'm aware of the different types of amps and cooling methods.

However, I will be adding a trim panel yet, and once that goes on, I'm sure the amp will get hot. If it's too hot, it would be very easy to run a small cooling fan to circulate air through the channel the amp is mounted in. If you thunk about a regular install under a seat, though, they don't get much airflow either, so it may not be necessary. It's not going to be pushed to its limits and at least for a while all four channels will probably be run at 4 ohm stereo for the four front doors and the dvc sub. I don't feel like taking the rear panels off again as it's a big job, so the third row will probably stay on the back channels of the head unit for a while longer.

 

I would be worried about the door being opened and closed a lot. Some electronic components don't like being jostled. Loose connections could pop up.

 

First off, that door gets open and closed about 20 times a year,maybe. I use the hatch for almost everything and the first door for what won't fit through the hatch.

Second, closing a door is no worse than going over train tracks or anything else. Mobile amplifiers are pretty tough. This particular one is a marine amp so it's about as tough as they get. Imagine it on a cigarette boat pounding off white caps at 65 mph all day.

Maybe you're right and it will some day let go... They all do eventually but hopefully closing the door won't be an issue.

 

Little more work today.

















Got cold after sun went down so I threw the 55 watt work light inside to put some heat into it so it would cure.



Needs another couple layers of fiberglass matt, unfortunately the gallon of resin I had was mostly dried up so I didn't get to make as much progress as I'd hoped. I'll use kitty hair to come in behind the frame and reinforce the bond between the tub and the frame that will attach to the baffle board. While thing is gonna be extremely lightweight compared to a normal mdf enclosure, which is good because I'll be shoving that massive old school punch dvc in the door so I want to keep weight to a minimum.

 

Finished up the box today.















And this is what it could look like.




Only thing is, the fiberglass ate up what's left of my mounting space. Less than a half inch short, but short is short.



If I hadn't recessed the woofer, it would be fine.

However, this woofer is huge and I knew it would be tough getting it to fit. The box is just shy of a half cube, so I can find another speaker that will work, and it would be nice to find one a little lighter anyway. The punch dvc is also a tough match for my 6 channel amp, presenting either 2 4 ohm or a single 2 ohm load. I'm either not getting full power bridged into 4 ohms, or I'm dropping the amp below its safe impedance.
So in search of a single 4 ohm of moderate mounting depth, preferably made in the US. . .

I am also trying to find some carpet that matches half decent. I'll probably cannibalize the factory trim pieces to go over the woofer and amp with snap on or magnetic grille attachments when all is said and done.

 

This would be perfect...anyone near Altoona that could grab this for me? Can PayPal .

http://altoona.craigslist.org/ele/5830163181.html

 

I have a Sundown SD-2 in my center console box and it thumps pretty good for an 8" in a tiny box. Looks like it is discontinued for the SD-3 now though.

It isn't lightweight by any means, but the rear of this sub can be flush against the back of the sub box since it isn't vented like a normal sub.

It is a dvc sub, but available as dual 4 or 2 ohm.