[updated:LAST EDITED ON 02-Jan-02 AT 01:02 AM (EST)]I just purchased a bran new 6 inch lift off ebay for $281.00, I was not going to buy a lift till the end if next year (2003), but could not pass this deal up. I’m going to install it this spring but want to gather up some information from the people who have installed lifts.
I know there will probably be some drive shaft vibration, but what other side effects should I expect.
Also if anyone could give some pointers, and tips on shortcuts, or anything to look out for.
I think I’m going to run 35 inch tires, what side effects do these monsters impel on the truck.
I'm not going to be able to change the gearing till the end of next year (2003) can I run 3.55's till then, that is when I will be able to change the gears myself in class. Maybe I should wait till then to install the lift!

Thanks in advance for input.

 

Have a good drill bit and a grinder to get the rivets out.
If the kit you bought has radius arm drop brackets, buy a brace to go between the drops(Trailmaster makes one). It really helps out, keeps the frame and arms from flexing.
Not a problem with the 3.55's, you will want to eventually want to go with 4.11's or 4.56's, both require a new carrier with the 8.8 rear.

 

i just installed a 6" lift on my 87 with longer radius arms instead of drop brackets. it was a little harder to do than drop brackets but worth it for strength. also when i took my truck to get alignment done i found out that i needed new ball joints, $500 but id rather have it fixed then them go out while on the road or trail. i am puttin 36" tires under my truck too.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 02-Jan-02 AT 11:18 PM (EST)]It has the drop bracket kit, not the longer radius arms.
I just rebuilt the front suspension, all the steering components, and all four ball joints, and all the u-joints were replaced.
I also put in camber adjustment nuts, so I’ll be set when I put in the lift.
What kind of sucks though is I put in leveling coils and some really nice shocks, I don’t even have 50 miles on all the new parts.
I didn’t put in new rear shocks, which is good, but I still had to buy four shocks, cause I have the quad shock setup.
I don’t know what I’m going to do with the coil springs and shocks maybe I’ll sell them.
I don’t drive it that much, the coils springs, and shocks will practically be new, when I take them out. Any one want to buy em?
All it cost me was about $400 bucks in parts cause I did the work myself, and that was for every thing I mentioned.
I wasn’t really planning on buying a lift any time in the future, because of the price, I just could not pass up a deal like that.
I was thinking of going with the 4.56 gears, my teacher will explain how to swap out the gears, and I’ll do it in the shop, but like I said we don’t get to that unit till the end of next year. So you think it will be ok to run 35’s for almost two years.
Oh the brand name is superlift, I would have rather got a skyjacker, but considering the price who cares.
If you go to my galley you can see all the new parts I installed.

I forgot to ask, my truck is a reg cab short bed, will this make the driveline angle more than it would with a longbed or x-cab after I lift it, and do you think this will be a problem?

 

I wouldn't worry about running 35's or the drive shaft angle. My friend has a E150 van with 39's and 3.55's, weighed almost 10,000#. He went to a dana 60 when he went to 44's. I ran 36's on my 150 for 2 years, no problems, found a 10.25 axle for a great price or I'd still be running on the stock gears.


94 F150 (sort of) 2x4 to 4x4 conversion, I6 to 302, 4" suspension, 3" body 36's, Sterling 10.25 rear, 8 bolts up front too.

 

my drive shaft angles were fine not sure about the front though havent had the chance to wheel it yet.

 

Madmann, I ran 35" BFG mud T/A's, and then 36" Swamper TSL's with my stock 3.31 gears. The 36's were on the edge, but the 35 ran great with no problem's. You shouldn't have any issues with your 3.55's. As far as the lift, Great price! Go for it and don't worry about a thing. Drive shafts and brake lines will work with no problems. I recomend you do get the alignment checked when you are done. Good luck and let us all know how it turns out. I can't wait to see the pics. Later.

 

The front drive line on my truck is a bit of a problem at higher speeds. The drive shaft also can make contact with the tranny crossmember with lots of wheel droop. I had a problem with the rear right after i installed it, with a bad vibration, but it went away after 600 miles. I'm assuming that it just needed to break the u-joints in to that much more movement. You might want to consider adding on extended radius arms. I know skyjacker sells them seperate and i'm sure you could get them from superlift too.


Ryan

 

The longer radius arms are approx. 200 bucks i believe from superlift.