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Old Oct 8, 2016 | 07:23 PM
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Part ID help?

Hey all, replacing a shift tube and collar today, but hit a snag. The housing for the blinker/hazard assembly(part 3511 I believe) has some busted prices of metal on the back side of it that I'm not seeing in the column schematics. Don't even know what that function is or if it's necessary that I replace it. Also, while pulling out the shift tube, a clip fell out, im assuming it attaches to the tube about half way down, as it fits there, but not when I try to slide it back in with the clip attached. Could it have been straightened out or bent while pulling the tube out? I don't see it on schematics either and don't know it's function. Any help with this would be awesome!




Back of part 3511



What is this?
 
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Old Oct 8, 2016 | 07:57 PM
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The pointer in the second picture is for the neutral safety switch. It attaches to the shift tube and extends through the steering column housing and engages with the the neutral safety switch. IIRC it can be snapped into place after the column is back together.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2016 | 08:10 PM
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Ah yes, just looked it up and it looks as if it will be easy to snap back into place. Been scouring old manuals and Internet stuff, still baffled by the other part.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2016 | 08:40 PM
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NumberDummy would know what to do..........
 
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Old Oct 8, 2016 | 10:06 PM
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The broken part in picture number one is a shift lockout plate. It prevents you from accidentally shifting to the wrong gear if you bump the shifter accidentally. You have to pull back on the shifter in order to shift out of park for example. Or you can shift from 1st or second to drive without having to pull back on the shift lever, but cannot shift to reverse. The pot metal on my shift collar broke in pretty much the same way as yours allowing the shift plate to flop around loose, but fortunately my shift plate was still intact. I know LMC caries them, so replacements are available.*








*As always, the "not all LMC products are quality products" disclaimer applies.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2016 | 11:13 PM
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Jeez, 22 bucks for that little plate... Almost as much as the shift tube itself.

I appreciate the help guys, looks like I won't be driving for a few days.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2016 | 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by omegaman13
Jeez, 22 bucks for that little plate... Almost as much as the shift tube itself.
I appreciate the help guys, looks like I won't be driving for a few days.
Insert, transmission control selector position
Fits: 73-77 F100-350 with automatic transmission

D2TZ-7A216-A

NOS Parts Ltd., Waxahachie, TX has 6 (972) 937-2201
Obsolete Reliable Parts, Nashville, GA has 1 (229) 686-5701

The Ford dealer parts locator is down right now so I can't check dealer inventory. I'll check later and update.

Also, here are a couple of pictures of the NSS (neutral start switch) actuator installed.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2016 | 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by wyrm73
The broken part in picture number one is the transmission control selector position insert aka shift detent (7A216 in pic).
The shift lever has a tab on it that rests against the insert.

See mikeo0o0o0's post #7 for the insert part number, sources that have it.

At the lower right in the pic, is the 7B097 NSS selector lever.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2016 | 05:58 PM
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LMC had the wrong nomenclature for a part?!? IMPOSSIBLE!


I would trust Mike and ND's word over LMC any day and twice on Sundays. And knowing that the part is still available NOS, I would check those prices first before ordering from LMC. I just happened to have their new catalog handy on my desk and knew they carried it from working on mine. The couple parts that I did order for the shifter worked, but did not fit as well as original Ford. I would recommend NOS over LMC for sure.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2016 | 08:49 AM
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dealer network is finally back online.
D2TZ-7A216-A
Last dealer cost $3.46 last list price $5.77

Beloit Auto & Truck Plaza, Beloit, KS has 1 (785)738-3573
Evans Ford, Carrollton, IL has 1 (217) 942-3636
Lum's Ford, Albemarle, NC has 2 (704) 982-1122

EDIT: Also, it looks like you could use the flange that the insert attaches to (P/N 3511 in the illustration that Bill posted).

Flange, steering wheel column tube
Fits: 73-77 F100-350 after s/n S40,001 w/ automatic trans.
D3TZ-3511-D
Last dealer cost $16.05 last list price $26.75

Green Sales, Cincinnati, OH has 8 (800) 543-4959
Dennis Carpenter, Concord, NC has 743 (704) 786-8139

EDIT II: Dennis Carpenter is really reasonable on the price for the flange: $19.95,
 
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Old Oct 16, 2016 | 05:15 PM
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Just put everything back together today. Before I deal with getting the wiring harness/horn/steering wheel back together, I just wanted to see if I'm clear on a few things. So really the only think that holds the shift collar in place that snap ring/c-clip? There's really no reason for those square headed bolts, doesn't seem so? If I push down on the steering wheel it has about 3/4 of an inch of play and spring tension up and down(plain jane column, 75 F100 4x4, no tilt), is this normal?

Ended up having to get a new shift lockout plate, column flange, shift collar, shift insulator, and I JB welded the tab on the shift tube back on for now until I can find one new or used. This is a truck I only drive in town, but am slowly going to build it up.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2016 | 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by omegaman13
There's really no reason for those square headed bolts, doesn't seem so?
No, you need those square headed bolts, that's what actually holds everything together. The C clip is there to keep the shaft from sliding out. It's not meant to hold everything together.
I would've tack welded the tab back on the shift tube, there's actually quite a bit of stress on that part when its in use.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2016 | 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by omegaman13
I JB welded the tab on the shift tube back on for now until I can find one new or used.
Tube, trans. control selector
Fits:
73-77 F100-350 2WD w/ manual steering w/ C4, C6 or FMX trans.
73-75 F100-350 4WD w/ manual or power steering w/ C4, C6 or FMX trans.
28¼" Long

C7TZ-7212-A

Freese Motors, Monticello, IA has 2 (319) 465-3541
Pioneer Ford Sales, Platteville, WI has 1 (608) 348-3673
Lochen Ford, Newberg, WI has 1 (262) 416-5031
Crossett Ford-Lincoln-Mercury, Crossett, AR has 1 (870) 364-2162
NOS Parts Source, Olathe, KS has 1 (913) 220-5746
 
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Old Oct 16, 2016 | 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by mikeo0o0o0
No, you need those square headed bolts, that's what actually holds everything together. The C clip is there to keep the shaft from sliding out. It's not meant to hold everything together.
I would've tack welded the tab back on the shift tube, there's actually quite a bit of stress on that part when its in use.

The whole column was in shambles from the previous owner, so I put it back together in the order that it was put in my whoever that was and maybe not by "the book". The square heads of those bolts were nested into the column flange and not connected to anything beyond that when I disassembled it. With the shift collar, the c clip seems to retain the shift collar and keep the shaft from sliding out. There is really nothing right now that "connects" the column flange and the shift collar on my truck, unless it was put together wrong my myself and the PO, or I'm missing parts.

I will have the tube welded or replaced, most shops in Montana are busy around my area right now for winterization and tire changing.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2016 | 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by omegaman13
The square heads of those bolts were nested into the column flange and not connected to anything beyond that when I disassembled it.
There are two "notches" (holes) in the column, close to the edge. The square part of the bolt head "catches" the edge of these holes. When you tighten the nuts, it pulls everything together.
 
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