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The gasket was already coming up around 5. Didn't on the other ones.
I think its safe to say that the IDI gods either hate me or this truck. One or other..... Getting tired of this. What am I supposed to do with this?! And there is not one damn bit of sealant on this except under the IP.
I think its safe to say that the IDI gods either hate me or this truck. One or other..... Getting tired of this. What am I supposed to do with this?! And there is not one damn bit of sealant on this except under the IP.
Wow... that truck must have been rescued from drowning. That's a lot of rust and it doesn't happen overnight. Probably not from coolant, either - I'm betting the hood leaked water into the intake(a lot of it), and /somehow/ they managed to get it all drained out and running again.
The no sealant on the sides is fine. That's what the gray stuff on the valley pan "gasket" piece is. You only install RTV under the valley pan at the front and back; under the IP and along the rear of it.
You have the "improved" model 7.3 heads with block off plugs inside the coolant ports, so even if that valley gasket doesn't seal perfectly, you are fine - the only thing inside the intake is air.
At this point, I don't see anything fatal; it looks a little in need of some cleaning, but should go back together without issue.
You'll probably want to buy a new valley pan gasket, though. You are supposed to replace it if you remove it, but as you do have the block-off plugs, you don't actually /need/ to.
No, It happened over years of no air cleaner on the manifold and the hood popped up one click. When I pulled the drain plug on the pan, Nothing but water for the first "gallon" or so. Then, It was thick dino egg type dark gray sludge that took forever to drain out. Left the plug out overnight. Long story short;
Once I had the time and some cash, I got her to run.
I want the 6.9 heads for the cooling ability...On my valve covers it has two stickers, One says "Motorcraft Re-manufactured" On the other is has three engines listed from 6.9, 7.3, to 6.0 with 6.9 punched out so I know the engine is less than 12 years old. But why would I have 7.3 heads?
A new valley pan is a MUST for this. I'm already planning for a complete re-build. Just need to find a reputable source for parts. I'm also thinking it would be better to source all the parts individually instead of a "master kit".
Reason is, I want to use ARP studs, not standard headbolts. Once this is complete, It is NOT coming back out, Lol.
Also looking for a book on the 6.9 but all I'm finding really is the haynes that covers GM 6.2, 6.5 and Ford 6.9, 7.3 and powerstroke 7.3 4 of those I don't need so why buy a book that is 3/4 useless to me?
BTW, a sheet of heavy plywood or two can support a cherry picker(engine hoist) if you need to pull the motor.
I just pulled and reinstalled the motor to change my headgaskets in my 88 last weekend, it took me all of 2 1/2 days to get it back on the road. But by now, I'm getting good at that sort of thing...
How heavy is "heavy"? 1"? I was thinking of building a floor of 1" plywood with 1/8"-ish luan to "hold" the sections together. Its literally going to do a 90* turn and that's as much as its going to move. Go from chassis to pneumatic tire cart and wheeled out.
So not much is really going to be needed of this floor. Id love to get it on a rotisserie style stand and check out the crank, journals, rods, etc.... But that's another tool I'd have to buy just for this and I cant justify the added expense. Bad enough my cherry picker is from harbor freight...(If I can get it back. Loaned it out 7 years ago and haven't gotten it back yet.)
Should I rent a torque wrench from a parts house or use my "Pittsburgh pro" I have laying around here I only used once years ago?
How heavy is "heavy"? 1"? I was thinking of building a floor of 1" plywood with 1/8"-ish luan to "hold" the sections together. Its literally going to do a 90* turn and that's as much as its going to move. Go from chassis to pneumatic tire cart and wheeled out.
I used like 7/16 OSB, and it barely held the steel wheels(as in cracking as it went). Pretty sure 3/4+ ply won't have much trouble with it.
Originally Posted by Cruiseomatic
So not much is really going to be needed of this floor. Id love to get it on a rotisserie style stand and check out the crank, journals, rods, etc.... But that's another tool I'd have to buy just for this and I cant justify the added expense. Bad enough my cherry picker is from harbor freight...(If I can get it back. Loaned it out 7 years ago and haven't gotten it back yet.)
Make sure it's a 2-ton model; these blocks are /heavy/. Like 1,000+ lbs empty. And at full arm extension, a 2-ton cherry picker will do 1/2 ton...
If needed, you can probably mess with chains and straps and get the motor onto it's flywheel, and look at stuff that way. That was how I installed the oil pan on my motor when I had it rebuilt.
Originally Posted by Cruiseomatic
Should I rent a torque wrench from a parts house or use my "Pittsburgh pro" I have laying around here I only used once years ago?
I used a Pittsburgh 1/2 click-type for my torquing; everything I read says that they are just as good as the expensive brand-name ones.
Making sure they are all the same is more important than a couple of ft-lbs +=
2-ton? Alright. Got the make shift garage finished tonight when I got home from work. Trying to find the parts I need for the truck, What I need for the rebuild, Etc... Is a pain. If I could get a cab and core, The rest would be sooo easy.....
On this build, I want to be able to do performance mods later on like a turbo, tweak IP settings, try different injectors and IPs, etc... So looking for what internals I need now so I'll never have to pull it again.
All I'm going to do is towing, some informal racing, and everyday driving while looking for performance and economy basically.
Also looking for a reasonable machine shop in my area to check the heads and block. I really hope this block is a B block and I don't have 7.3 heads.....Could be why the HG blew....
Where and how much can I expect to pay for a new set of correct heads?
. I really hope this block is a B block and I don't have 7.3 heads.....Could be why the HG blew....
Uh... What's wrong with the 7.3 heads?
They are big hunks of steel. Clamp them down and the head gaskets won't blow. Justin hit 450 HP at the wheels with no gasket failure... it was the connecting rods that failed.
You'd have to see when you pull them off, but I'd bet it had something to do with all the water/rusting going on... either destroying a fire ring or something like that.
Also, pretty sure the cooling is just fine in 7.3 heads. I recall that they blocked off certain ports from the head to the block, but I think this was for /more/ flow(making sure it went all through the head), not less.
Not thats theres anything wrong with 7.3 heads, But I keep reading how much more cooling capacity 6.9 head have.
Why would there be coolant passages with freeze plugs towards the intake?
But I'm with you on the rust causing HG failure. No water there wasn't enough pressure on them to cause failure but as soon as water pressure built behind them it was then they let go....
Just a hypothesis.
What are you're take on the haynes manuals for this engine?
Why would there be coolant passages with freeze plugs towards the intake?
Pretty sure that the it was for some casting-related reason, because all 6.9 and 7.3 heads have the ports. It's just that they go nowhere - there's no provision for any ports in the intake manifold or gasket for them.
all 6.9s and early 7.3s had these ports just open, with the gasket sealing them. Apparently some leaked, so Ford added freeze plugs in later engines.
Not sure the exact year, but my 88 did /not/ have the plugs, and my 93 engine did.
I retrofitted plugs onto my 88 heads when I had them off a few months ago, just as an added precaution.
Originally Posted by Cruiseomatic
What are you're take on the haynes manuals for this engine?
I have one. It's decent, I suppose. Not perfect, but good.
There are ford shop manuals floating around too; these would have any extra detail if you can find a copy.
Also, there are scans of some pages out there on the internet; lots of good info if you look around.
I'll check tomorrow when I get a chance. When I pull the engine apart, What all should I have the shop check for?
Like a list of things to ensure this block is fine for what intended to do with it.
Before I take it, It's going to the car wash and getting pressure blasted with degreaser and soap. This thing is some kind of nasty. Once I get it back though, I do want to paint it.... Eventually.
What is the intake manifold made of? Aluminum? And, What can I use to clean the bolt holes in the head with? I tried to run the bolts back in by hand so they wouldn't get lost of mixed and can only get about 2 threads deep now.
Don't just set the torque on that long-dormant Pittsburg torque wrench and crank on it. I made that mistake a while back, my wife was cursing that she couldn't get it to click when she was sure she was hitting 140 ft-lb on the lug nuts. The wrench hadn't been used in probably a couple years. Found an article (can't find it now) that says a click-type torque wrench will sometimes not work at high settings after it's sat for a while. The "fix" is to set it to a low setting (say, 20 ft-lb) and put it on a fastener and turn 'til it clicks. Then set it up to a moderate setting (say 50 ft-lb) and repeat. Do this on a fastener that's already tightened, like a lug nut of an attached wheel. Work your way up to the full setting. I tried this and it got the clicker working again.
And, What can I use to clean the bolt holes in the head with? I tried to run the bolts back in by hand so they wouldn't get lost of mixed and can only get about 2 threads deep now.
A tap. IIRC, the bolts are 3/8-16; pretty standard. Just find a decent steel hand tap and run it in to clean the threads. Use a little lubricant and be careful not to cross-thread it.
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