Starting and idling Issues
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2016
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From: Spencer, Ma
Starting and idling Issues
I have an 82 flare side F150 with a 300 4.9 6cyl... When I start it cold I literally have to pump it 50 times... Once started the choke kicks in but it seems to idle high at times and its fine other times. When its running high I can kick it and that usually brings it down... When driving it runs well.. Its a new carb and all of the emissions crap have been removed... I know this isn't much to go on but I was hoping for some suggestions that a non mechanic could understand.....
Thanks
Guns
Thanks
Guns
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
New carb or not I would check in to the choke to make sure it is working as it should.
Then if it is working, closes with 1 pump, look into adjusting it as it just need adjusting. Also check the fast idle cam if working right also.
Dave - - - -
Then if it is working, closes with 1 pump, look into adjusting it as it just need adjusting. Also check the fast idle cam if working right also.
Dave - - - -
Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 173
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From: Meridian ID
Alrighty, what about vacuum lines?
A lot of the time when someone removes "smog crap" they inadvertently affect the normal running by removing different vacuum lines. You have an engine of the era before computers so everything is vacuum controlled.
I know it's daunting but you can do it. None of your problems sound mechanical, I think they are fuel and vacuum.
The other thing to check right away is if your choke is working correctly.
You will need a helper, remove the air cleaner and on a cold start have the helper watch as you pump the gas pedal a couple of times. You should get a couple of squirts of gas and the choke plate should close.
Make sure you don't try to start the engine with your helper staring down the carburetor, you can possibly get a backfire with no air cleaner cover on.
I'll look up what I found for vacuum help and post links here.
A lot of the time when someone removes "smog crap" they inadvertently affect the normal running by removing different vacuum lines. You have an engine of the era before computers so everything is vacuum controlled.
I know it's daunting but you can do it. None of your problems sound mechanical, I think they are fuel and vacuum.
The other thing to check right away is if your choke is working correctly.
You will need a helper, remove the air cleaner and on a cold start have the helper watch as you pump the gas pedal a couple of times. You should get a couple of squirts of gas and the choke plate should close.
Make sure you don't try to start the engine with your helper staring down the carburetor, you can possibly get a backfire with no air cleaner cover on.
I'll look up what I found for vacuum help and post links here.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 173
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From: Meridian ID
Here is a link to my journey through some of the same issues.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...or-issues.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...or-issues.html
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2015
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From: Northeast Ohio USA
As Dave and Dan mentioned, the choke should close after that first accelerator pump prior to turning the ignition to "start" but....not all the way. It should close, but leaving a small gap (it still has to get some air for start up).
Lead Driver
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The $64 question: When did the problem start? Right after the carb replacement and emissions purge?
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From: Spencer, Ma
LOL... The pumping to start has always been this way... So at least 23 years.. I just assumed it was because it was an older truck and it does ALWAYS start...The choke always an issue of not working but with the new carb it at least works... I am thinking of just putting an electric fuel pump on it... Does anyone know the fuel pressure for this truck?
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From: Virginia
I will tell the guy who started this thread; Chokes can be hard to get right, there are so many things to go wrong, so many different things to adjust and get right. I try and get them to work but I will admit sometimes I give up and put a manual choke on them. It does work well if you follow the instructions when installing the manual kit.
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From: Northeast Ohio USA
That's not right. First pump in the morning the choke should close completely shut. Once it starts, vacuum is applied to the choke pull-off and that cracks the choke a certain amount to let the engine run.
I will tell the guy who started this thread; Chokes can be hard to get right, there are so many things to go wrong, so many different things to adjust and get right. I try and get them to work but I will admit sometimes I give up and put a manual choke on them. It does work well if you follow the instructions when installing the manual kit.
I will tell the guy who started this thread; Chokes can be hard to get right, there are so many things to go wrong, so many different things to adjust and get right. I try and get them to work but I will admit sometimes I give up and put a manual choke on them. It does work well if you follow the instructions when installing the manual kit.
FTE Legend
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From: Angier, NC
LOL... The pumping to start has always been this way... So at least 23 years.. I just assumed it was because it was an older truck and it does ALWAYS start...The choke always an issue of not working but with the new carb it at least works... I am thinking of just putting an electric fuel pump on it... Does anyone know the fuel pressure for this truck?
So the choke does close with a 1/8"gap when you pump it once when cold?
If you open the choke, motor not running, look down inside and pump it do you see a stream of fuel spray down into the carb?
When the motor is up to temp and you need to start it do you still need to pump it to get it to start?
How did you look for vacuum leaks?
Motor up to temp and at normal idle speed use carb cleaner and spray it along head & intake manifold, bast of carb and around any vacuum lines.
If the motor speeds up you have a vacuum leak and needs to fixed.
Only other thing I can think of to cause a hard start and need a LOT of fuel is a weak spark.
If you pull a wire off a plug and using an old plug in the wire ground the plug to motor and start it you should see a blue spark and hear it snap! If not that could be the cause.
To fix that and maybe just check it any way check all grounds. Cabl e from battery to motor block/head, cable from motor to frame and should have a ground wire from motor or frame to body.
Dave - - - -
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From: Virginia
On most of my 2100/2150 series carbs, they never completely closed upon choke (maybe they should have) , but anyway, you are correct in that they can be a bugger to get right. Hence my current manual choke. But i have to say, i like the manual set-up a lot better as it allows better control through the seasons.
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From: Northeast Ohio USA
What is neat about the manual choke conversion kits, the choke pull-off still works. So you can pull on the cable and the choke can shut all the way. As soon as it starts the choke pull-off cracks the choke open, and most of the time you can kick the gas pedal and it will immediately drop down a step on the fast idle cam. You can usually start driving on it this way and when you feel it bogging a little bit down the road, you can push the choke in to off and be good to go. That is, if you have the stock aircleaner and the heat tube coming off the exhaust manifold. If you don't it can give you fits on a cold damp day.
Last edited by WhatsAChevy?; Oct 9, 2016 at 02:53 PM. Reason: afterthought