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Anything I should look for on the engine swap? Guy also said power steering is out. From what I've read on here it seems straightforward on putting in a new pump. Is there more to it?
Try and confirm by engine number that it actually is a 460. Could be a 390... even 360.
The power steering pump and lines are your best bet to regain power steering, yes. I would also bring a new belt to suit.
Beware that particular one, though, as the rust on the guards and tailgate look pretty decent and the cab looks shiny. I'd say someone has done a quick patch job on it and is now looking to sell before the 20lb of filler falls out. Could have been done correctly but that is not my impression.
If the cab is solid then it could be a good truck.
Try and confirm by engine number that it actually is a 460. Could be a 390... even 360.
The power steering pump and lines are your best bet to regain power steering, yes. I would also bring a new belt to suit.
Beware that particular one, though, as the rust on the guards and tailgate look pretty decent and the cab looks shiny. I'd say someone has done a quick patch job on it and is now looking to sell before the 20lb of filler falls out. Could have been done correctly but that is not my impression.
If the cab is solid then it could be a good truck.
Block #'s are behind the starter. A pretty sure upside down too...Walmart borescope makes it easy to rear.
Engine Identification:
351C/M/400 335 series: 8 bolts in rectangular valve covers. Timing chain housing is part of block. Thermostat housing on block. Exhaust bolt holes diagonal.
351M/400 335 series: intake is 12.7" wide the 351C is narrow. The 351M and 400 are identical externally, only internal parts examination can tell them apart.
351W/302/5.0L 6 bolts on trapezoidal valve covers. Thermostat housing on intake. Exhaust bolt holes horizontal.
429/460 385 series: 7 bolts in rectangular valve cover
352/360/390/427/428 FE series: Intake goes under valve covers.
Motor swap.... what to look for... is it a truck or car motor? Does it have a front or rear sump oil pan? Rear sump is better for a 4wd application, but a front will work unless you off road it hard. Did they notch the passenger side frame rail to get the 460 in it? If it has a front sump oil pan and front cover dip stick it could be a 2wd truck or definitely a car motor. If the frame is notched to let the CAR exhaust manifolds fit, then it was done by NOT the smartest motor swap guy out there.
Yes its rusty, but all that really matters rust wise is the front cab mount being secure, look behind the plastic inner fenderwell liner to ck that, the rest is easily replaceable stuff. I bet you could get it for $1650 or maybe a little less for CASH.
Went and looked at the white 79 today. Frame was cut for the exhaust. Bed was to far gone. Also at one time a plow was on it and the front was buggered up. So I'm back to looking at ads and trying to find my future 4x4 dent.
Ok I found this its a good drive to check out but will be calling and finding out more info in the am. It seems it will need at least new bedsides, cab corners, and a fender. That is if the ad is correct and it runs fine!
Ok I found this its a good drive to check out but will be calling and finding out more info in the am. It seems it will need at least new bedsides, cab corners, and a fender. That is if the ad is correct and it runs fine!
Wow! That's pretty rough for "good condition", but I guess that's all relative...I do wonder what "battery seals" are...and I'd bet it's really 179K miles...
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