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Is there any way to "raise" the factory running boards in order to get them
a little closer to the body of the truck? I think it would afford a little more ground clearance and I also think it would look better? Has anyone tried?
You can just takes the effort to do, I looked at doing it as well but ended up getting the N-Fab bars and have been happy with them.
You need to drill new holes in the brackets and possibly cutting the brackets down some. I know I read somewhere at one point someone did and posted about it...
You've got the high end boards, I d keep em....(properly with right tools) just slot the brackets, trim off the top if it interferes with the floor. Not sure how much you'll gain before the L bracket contacts the pinch weld on the rocker? Good metal shop could help you with this or fab new brackets and powder coat.
If you have not done so have this new truck Krown Rust proofed. Best time to do so is new. Best money Ive spent on mine so far...Disregard if you live in a hot dry climate.
You've got the high end boards, I d keep em....(properly with right tools) just slot the brackets, trim off the top if it interferes with the floor. Not sure how much you'll gain before the L bracket contacts the pinch weld on the rocker? Good metal shop could help you with this or fab new brackets and powder coat.
If you have not done so have this new truck Krown Rust proofed. Best time to do so is new. Best money Ive spent on mine so far...Disregard if you live in a hot dry climate.
Thanks, I'll crawl under the truck and see what I might be able to do. As far as Rust Proofing, I think that is an excellent idea. I'm in Texas and it is Hot and Dry some years, Hot and wet the last couple it seems. The last couple of winters they have had to salt the roads several times due to ice so I think I probably should look at getting some rust protection.
think I probably should look at getting some rust protection.
You'll thank me in 3-5 years when the rear fenders arent popping out, or the bed support rails are no longer holding the box to the frame etc...Keeps all the unpainted surfaces rust free too. IMO Ford does not do enough corrosion treatment to the underside sheet metal(of course not then they cant sell you a 80K truck every 5 years). That gray paint flakes off after 2 years particularly at all the spot welds, which accelerates rust. If you truck does not have the rear plastic wheel well liners invest in those too. $130 on amazon for OEM Ford liners. But I think the KR has them standard???
My 03 has the tube running boards and my '11 has the no gap running boards. Having the no gap is far superior imo. Keeps the truck so much better protected.
I can't find the thread right now, but I remember a few years ago a member modifies the hangers to pull the running boards closer to the cab. He basically cut off the top and re-drilled the holes. It looked good after he was finished.
My 03 has the tube running boards and my '11 has the no gap running boards. Having the no gap is far superior imo. Keeps the truck so much better protected.
That's what I'm after, up tight to the body like your 11.
I can't find the thread right now, but I remember a few years ago a member modifies the hangers to pull the running boards closer to the cab. He basically cut off the top and re-drilled the holes. It looked good after he was finished.
If I remember right you cut off a couple inches of the bracket and drill 2 new holes a couple inches down from the slotted ones then trim where it starts to bend I cant remember if its plastic and metal or just plastic trim
Thanks for all the input guys! As soon as I get some time I'll crawl under the truck and see if I can figure out which path to take. Just hadn't had time lately. Haven't even got to drive it in two weeks.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
