Rear main
Senior User
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 477
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Torque specs for many Ford engine components:
Ford 260 289 302 5.0 V8 Engine Specs | Torque Specs - Cylinder Numbering - Firing Order - Distributor Rotation
Ford 260 289 302 5.0 V8 Engine Specs | Torque Specs - Cylinder Numbering - Firing Order - Distributor Rotation
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 5,831
Likes: 121
From: St Albert, Alberta
Main caps with 1/2" 13 bolts get torqued bewtween 95ft-lbs/128.8Nm and 105 ft-lbs/142.4 Nm In 3 steps. Start at the rear cap and work forward.
After torquing the caps make sure the engine rotates freely by baring it over by hand. Probably a good idea to pull the plugs when doing this.
Oil pan 12 ft-lbs 16.2Nm
Also I forgot to mention adding a small 1/16" or smaller bead of sealer on the block in the corner where the rear cap's edge butts up to the block. This should only be 1/2" (13mm) long starting at the back of the block. This will prevent any seepage past the cap and block. DO NOT extend the sealer in to the bearing area. It should only be as wide as the rear main seal holder part of the of the cap.
For your motor mounts consult the shop manual.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,350
Likes: 7
From: Garland, Tx
Agreed with mattewq4b.
I don't have the experience with a small block, but the method is the same. It is not that big of a deal other than overhead work bites. On my FE, after raising the engine, my problem was clearing the pickup tube. I dropped the pan enough to unbolt it. After that it was a breaze. Only thing I might argue with is, use a pair of needle nose pliers in lieu of vice grips. Once the rubber breaks free from the block, ease it out in the same circular fashion as the crank.
I actually stumbled on this thread as I am working on a 79 T/A that has a rope seal to remove and looking for ideas of what I'm about to get into...
I don't have the experience with a small block, but the method is the same. It is not that big of a deal other than overhead work bites. On my FE, after raising the engine, my problem was clearing the pickup tube. I dropped the pan enough to unbolt it. After that it was a breaze. Only thing I might argue with is, use a pair of needle nose pliers in lieu of vice grips. Once the rubber breaks free from the block, ease it out in the same circular fashion as the crank.
I actually stumbled on this thread as I am working on a 79 T/A that has a rope seal to remove and looking for ideas of what I'm about to get into...
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