still fuel pump problems
still fuel pump problems
if i take out the fuel pump relay and jumper the two load terminals i get full power to the pumps but they still don't work so i took the fuel filter out and it wasn't easy,by the way don't buy the butterfly type disconnect tools they don't work, and the filter is in a difficult place to get to,why can't they move it a inches toward the front instead of right by the front tank, anyway when i dumped the filter out a bunch of sludge and dirt came out and i am guessing both tanks are probably the same and that is why the pumps died so i guess i will take the bed off next or at least tilt it up to get to the tanks. the owner said it ran fine to california twice then he parked it for 6 mths. i tried ti run the tanks with the filter out but still no go so i am thinking bad pumps. what size are the bolts that hold the bed on. i am thinking take all the bolts out and put a couple of 4x4 beams to hold it up and while it is up hose everything down with water before taking the pumps out. where is the hookup for the tail lights. i guess a look on you tube is in order. i will check in and tell of the outcome. he doesn't want to spend a whole lot of money,he is just going to sell it anyway.
sold it to me for 100 bucks, got the front tank out needs a new pump and a sending unit. OReilly won't sell me a strainer just the whole module for 200 bucks. my computer crashed and I lost a lot now my name is dreamofford thanks. finally figured out the plastic disconnect tool. what a pain.
Used to work there. In some cases we did sell just the strainer, other times not. Try shopping online, you may get better results.
my two cents.....assuming you have a high pressure fuel module in each tank (which is a guess because I don't see your truck info).......
These pumps will fail quickly if run dirty, If it were me, knowing the strainer was off, and knowing you had crud making it to the filter (coming through one or both the fuel pumps), and knowing you already have one module out ..... I would replace the fuel pump/module, and make sure any tank you replace one on is clean. They are tank size and location/model specific, and I don't see your truck info.. Get on RockAuto's site and pay close attention to the details there and find the module number(s) and shop from there. The new module should come with a strainer. Each module will be around $100 buck + or minus $30. Rightly or wrongly I went with Delphi modules when I replaces both of mine (in January) . My kits came with the wire connectors and module removal wedge....make sure you remove all screws (including the ones holding the sending unit on before you try to wedge the module off the assembly), and make sure you use the right sized wire connector crimping tool.
Regarding the sending units, again they are tank specific with a large difference in cost depending on brand quality. I went with a motorcraft sending unit on the one I had to replace (and it cost more than the fuel module).....because some of the reviews on many of the others said their fuel gauges were not accurate otherwise, to each their own on that, I just wanted to be done with it. If your gauge was working on the tank you are working on, and the float is in good shape, you can reinstall.
Another tip ...the rear tank can be more of a pain than the front to get out, particularly if you have an after market hitch whose bolts/connections might need to come out, or a stubborn spare tire screw. If your spare tire screw is stubborn, imo use penetrating oil, remove it all the way, clean it up on a wire wheel or brush, and use anti seize on it for the reinstall. The benefit of going through the hassle of taking the rear tank out is it will be much easier to clean and dry, if it needs it. Last tip, I had a bear of a time getting my safely fill hoses to go on during the reinstall .... finally solved that by using a knife to chamfer the inside edges of the hoses causing the issue.
Final tip: Most auto parts stores (like Oreillys) will loan you a fuel pressure test gauge. It is super easy to check, and will aid fuel issue diagnosis. Haynes manual has tank removal instructions.
hope this helps
These pumps will fail quickly if run dirty, If it were me, knowing the strainer was off, and knowing you had crud making it to the filter (coming through one or both the fuel pumps), and knowing you already have one module out ..... I would replace the fuel pump/module, and make sure any tank you replace one on is clean. They are tank size and location/model specific, and I don't see your truck info.. Get on RockAuto's site and pay close attention to the details there and find the module number(s) and shop from there. The new module should come with a strainer. Each module will be around $100 buck + or minus $30. Rightly or wrongly I went with Delphi modules when I replaces both of mine (in January) . My kits came with the wire connectors and module removal wedge....make sure you remove all screws (including the ones holding the sending unit on before you try to wedge the module off the assembly), and make sure you use the right sized wire connector crimping tool.
Regarding the sending units, again they are tank specific with a large difference in cost depending on brand quality. I went with a motorcraft sending unit on the one I had to replace (and it cost more than the fuel module).....because some of the reviews on many of the others said their fuel gauges were not accurate otherwise, to each their own on that, I just wanted to be done with it. If your gauge was working on the tank you are working on, and the float is in good shape, you can reinstall.
Another tip ...the rear tank can be more of a pain than the front to get out, particularly if you have an after market hitch whose bolts/connections might need to come out, or a stubborn spare tire screw. If your spare tire screw is stubborn, imo use penetrating oil, remove it all the way, clean it up on a wire wheel or brush, and use anti seize on it for the reinstall. The benefit of going through the hassle of taking the rear tank out is it will be much easier to clean and dry, if it needs it. Last tip, I had a bear of a time getting my safely fill hoses to go on during the reinstall .... finally solved that by using a knife to chamfer the inside edges of the hoses causing the issue.
Final tip: Most auto parts stores (like Oreillys) will loan you a fuel pressure test gauge. It is super easy to check, and will aid fuel issue diagnosis. Haynes manual has tank removal instructions.
hope this helps
Last edited by Yetti; Feb 5, 2018 at 04:44 PM. Reason: added tips
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