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My HPOP fitting turbo side is leaking. I swear I replaced this a couple years ago. But could be wrong. Anyways. Are both fittings on the pump considered outlet fittings? Just making sure I am ordering the correct things. Also should I go check valve fittings or non check valve fittings? Stock early bird pump. No chip.
Thank you all in advance. Need to get this squared away so I can get overnighted from Clay.
If you mean the fittings on the pump that connect to the high pressure lines to the heads they are both the same. I got new ones a few years ago and the two on the pump were the same and the two on the heads, although different from the ones on the pump, are the same as each other as well.
Make sure you clean and dry the threads on the pump really well and use the special lok-tite. I drained my pump with the IPR removed, cleaned it spotless with brake cleaner, let it dry overnight, installed 2 new fittings the next day and let those dry overnight. Nary a problem since.
I sense a mix up of what hose/line is what given he's referencing the turbo side (I have experience at this). Firefighter 1406 are you talking about the flex line that mounts in the middle of the head or the steel tubing that mounts on the end of the head?
I sense a mix up of what hose/line is what given he's referencing the turbo side (I have experience at this). Firefighter 1406 are you talking about the flex line that mounts in the middle of the head or the steel tubing that mounts on the end of the head?
It's the fitting on the HPOP. If you are looking at the front of the engine it is the rear fitting.
Originally Posted by Sous
Pictures from the truck or the web showing the exact part or location would help a lot in this thread.
My computer is garbage. So pictures are a little difficult. I will do what I can.
If you mean the fittings on the pump that connect to the high pressure lines to the heads they are both the same. I got new ones a few years ago and the two on the pump were the same and the two on the heads, although different from the ones on the pump, are the same as each other as well.
Make sure you clean and dry the threads on the pump really well and use the special lok-tite. I drained my pump with the IPR removed, cleaned it spotless with brake cleaner, let it dry overnight, installed 2 new fittings the next day and let those dry overnight. Nary a problem since.
I can appreciate the care taken to make sure everything is good. I can't really afford the truck to be down two days. If I clean everything well and reassemble. How long do I need to wait before I can run the truck?
I was gonna order from Clay, but my local dealer has one. Would equal out in price by the time I add overnight shipping. Is it going to hurt to have one of them with the check valve and one without?
You should use the 680 loctite and torque to 25 ft lbs once the threads in the pump have been completely cleaned and dried. You can remove both check valves (spring and disc) without fear of damaging anything.
You should use the 680 loctite and torque to 25 ft lbs once the threads in the pump have been completely cleaned and dried. You can remove both check valves (spring and disc) without fear of damaging anything.
Is the 680 loc tite the only one you can use? I am having a hard time locating this locally.
Is the 680 loc tite the only one you can use? I am having a hard time locating this locally.
It is the recommended sealant for the threads due to the high pressure and coarse threads.
Originally Posted by Firefighter 1406
Is it okay to clean the threads with brake cleaner? Is it gonna hurt if some gets into the pump?
Spray the lint free cloth with the brake cleaner and wipe clean that way. I would not recommend spraying brake cleaner into the hole. Although, if you do get a significant spray in there, you can rinse it out by removing the drain plug and pouring fresh oil into the HPOP reservoir.
Well I wanted to fix it in the am. But got the picture from Amazon next day ship. So I guess it will be tomorrow night. It will have the night to dry then.