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E4OD noise - flex plate broken?

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Old Sep 30, 2016 | 08:05 PM
  #16  
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Got a present in the mail! Installing this tomorrow. This isn't addressed in the instructions, so it must not matter, but what direction does the fittings go - up or down?

Additionally, I found out that I do still have my old, small, factory cooler as well as the one I've mentioned in another thread, that is mounted horizontally with a broken fan, outside, under the driver seat. I assume all three are in use- radiator, factory cooler, and fan cooler. I'm eliminating the old coolers, but want to make sure I have the flow correct. Does it go trans, radiator , new trucool cooler then back to trans????

I've also decided that I'm taking it in for a new trans install on Wednesday. He likes the tugger kit and installing a triple disc, billet TC. Looking forward to getting this going.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2016 | 08:12 PM
  #17  
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Have you found out yet if the flex plate was cracked ?
 
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Old Sep 30, 2016 | 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by '74 Ford 250 CS
Got a present in the mail! Installing this tomorrow. This isn't addressed in the instructions, so it must not matter, but what direction does the fittings go - up or down?

Additionally, I found out that I do still have my old, small, factory cooler as well as the one I've mentioned in another thread, that is mounted horizontally with a broken fan, outside, under the driver seat. I assume all three are in use- radiator, factory cooler, and fan cooler. I'm eliminating the old coolers, but want to make sure I have the flow correct. Does it go trans, radiator , new trucool cooler then back to trans????

I've also decided that I'm taking it in for a new trans install on Wednesday. He likes the tugger kit and installing a triple disc, billet TC. Looking forward to getting this going.
Start at trans front fitting,then into rad,out of rad cooler to trucool then to rear line.
If rebuilding trans then I would hang the cooler but not plumb it in. If you have contamination in your trans presently it could contaminate the new cooler. Most trans shops won't warrantee a trans without new coolers.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2016 | 09:27 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by ReBilld
Have you found out yet if the flex plate was cracked ?
No. you can't see if it's cracked with the trans in. There is a spacer between the engine and plate, blocking the view.

Originally Posted by fordman67
Start at trans front fitting,then into rad,out of rad cooler to trucool then to rear line.
If rebuilding trans then I would hang the cooler but not plumb it in. If you have contamination in your trans presently it could contaminate the new cooler. Most trans shops won't warrantee a trans without new coolers.
Exactly. I asked him if he would hook it up if I mounted it. I got a little worried at first because it didn't look like it would fit b/w the grill. I measured it again and it seems it will be tight but should work even with the IC behind it.

What about how the cooler should mount. Fitting up or down? Or no difference?
 
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Old Sep 30, 2016 | 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by '74 Ford 250 CS
No. you can't see if it's cracked with the trans in. There is a spacer between the engine and plate, blocking the view.



Exactly. I asked him if he would hook it up if I mounted it. I got a little worried at first because it didn't look like it would fit b/w the grill. I measured it again and it seems it will be tight but should work even with the IC behind it.

What about how the cooler should mount. Fitting up or down? Or no difference?
Mine is mounted to the rear of the bumper . . fittings down.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2016 | 01:23 PM
  #21  
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Update - cooler is installed. Ran out of time and used zip ties. Will take bumper off in the future and mount to bunker.

Trans guy said flex plate is not broken. I guess the noise is the TC. He won't know more till he breaks it down next week.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2016 | 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by '74 Ford 250 CS
Update - cooler is installed. Ran out of time and used zip ties. Will take bumper off in the future and mount to bunker.

Trans guy said flex plate is not broken. I guess the noise is the TC. He won't know more till he breaks it down next week.
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That's how I did mine fyi
 
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Old Oct 7, 2016 | 07:39 PM
  #23  
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You did a great job. Something to aspire to.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2016 | 11:45 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by '74 Ford 250 CS
You did a great job. Something to aspire to.
Ahh just trying to help where i can.
I love my trucool.works perfectly.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2016 | 09:38 PM
  #25  
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I have to say I know nothing about a auto trans. I've learned about it the past weeks than ever. So, I made my mind up that since the flex plate wasn't making the noise - a rebuild is a definite. Most comments I've read seem to say two things. Upgrade the TC and add a shift kit. Now I'm reading about steel planetary gears - 6 pinion vs aluminum stock?

I have a 97. I've read an website saying that they offer parts to make it a 97 which had the most upgrades. So does 97 have steel or aluminum? Do I need to upgrade to steel? What the advantage? I realize steel is stronger and assuming I have the original trans, aluminum has lasted a long time.

I use the truck to pull a 28 ft steel, goose neck, 4 horse trailer. Diving time is mostly spent unhooked, but that could change since the trailer is working order. Just replaced brakes drums and bought new tires.


Is this necessary? Other upgrades necessary or needed?
 
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Old Oct 9, 2016 | 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by '74 Ford 250 CS
I have to say I know nothing about a auto trans. I've learned about it the past weeks than ever. So, I made my mind up that since the flex plate wasn't making the noise - a rebuild is a definite. Most comments I've read seem to say two things. Upgrade the TC and add a shift kit. Now I'm reading about steel planetary gears - 6 pinion vs aluminum stock?

I have a 97. I've read an website saying that they offer parts to make it a 97 which had the most upgrades. So does 97 have steel or aluminum? Do I need to upgrade to steel? What the advantage? I realize steel is stronger and assuming I have the original trans, aluminum has lasted a long time.

I use the truck to pull a 28 ft steel, goose neck, 4 horse trailer. Diving time is mostly spent unhooked, but that could change since the trailer is working order. Just replaced brakes drums and bought new tires.


Is this necessary? Other upgrades necessary or needed?
IMO at stock power levels I wouldn't worry a out planetaries and shafts. Heck my 100%stock e4odear is still kicking 2years after some pretty OK POWA upgrades
 
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Old Oct 10, 2016 | 06:33 AM
  #27  
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Thanks. I finally spoke to my brother late last night and he had the same feeling - Steel if you're going the high HP and pulling stuff you probably shouldn't. However expect to pay - his buddy had 2500 in steel planetaries and a good TC as cost. That's not in the budget today.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2016 | 01:10 PM
  #28  
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Quick questions. I'm too busy at work to look this up. Picking up the truck soon from the shop. I'll update with the specifics soon.

Can a scanner read there tranny temp?

And where is the correct place for the tranny temp gauge to be installed?
 
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Old Oct 19, 2016 | 02:21 PM
  #29  
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A good scan tool should be able to read trans temp. Install the trans temp sender in the test port on the driver's side of the trans.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2016 | 09:14 PM
  #30  
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Thanks, Mark. They couldn't read it. I didn't ask what scanner they had. It has and still installed on the divers side port.

So this is what was wrong.

1. Torque converter
2. Pump gears
3. Forward driver clutch

No break in the flex plate.

What was replaced

1. Flex plate -missing teeth
2. Toque converter- triple disc, billet
3 . Tigger shift kit
4. Steel planetaries - didn't know he was going to do this
5. Pump rebuild

Drives great. Had posted a question on another thread about what seems like a shift between 3rd and 4th but it seems to be normal.

Overall the noise I had wasn't the flex plate but the torque converter. Expensive but so much cheaper than a 6.7!
 
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