E4OD noise - flex plate broken?
#16
Got a present in the mail! Installing this tomorrow. This isn't addressed in the instructions, so it must not matter, but what direction does the fittings go - up or down?
Additionally, I found out that I do still have my old, small, factory cooler as well as the one I've mentioned in another thread, that is mounted horizontally with a broken fan, outside, under the driver seat. I assume all three are in use- radiator, factory cooler, and fan cooler. I'm eliminating the old coolers, but want to make sure I have the flow correct. Does it go trans, radiator , new trucool cooler then back to trans????
I've also decided that I'm taking it in for a new trans install on Wednesday. He likes the tugger kit and installing a triple disc, billet TC. Looking forward to getting this going.
Additionally, I found out that I do still have my old, small, factory cooler as well as the one I've mentioned in another thread, that is mounted horizontally with a broken fan, outside, under the driver seat. I assume all three are in use- radiator, factory cooler, and fan cooler. I'm eliminating the old coolers, but want to make sure I have the flow correct. Does it go trans, radiator , new trucool cooler then back to trans????
I've also decided that I'm taking it in for a new trans install on Wednesday. He likes the tugger kit and installing a triple disc, billet TC. Looking forward to getting this going.
#18
Got a present in the mail! Installing this tomorrow. This isn't addressed in the instructions, so it must not matter, but what direction does the fittings go - up or down?
Additionally, I found out that I do still have my old, small, factory cooler as well as the one I've mentioned in another thread, that is mounted horizontally with a broken fan, outside, under the driver seat. I assume all three are in use- radiator, factory cooler, and fan cooler. I'm eliminating the old coolers, but want to make sure I have the flow correct. Does it go trans, radiator , new trucool cooler then back to trans????
I've also decided that I'm taking it in for a new trans install on Wednesday. He likes the tugger kit and installing a triple disc, billet TC. Looking forward to getting this going.
Additionally, I found out that I do still have my old, small, factory cooler as well as the one I've mentioned in another thread, that is mounted horizontally with a broken fan, outside, under the driver seat. I assume all three are in use- radiator, factory cooler, and fan cooler. I'm eliminating the old coolers, but want to make sure I have the flow correct. Does it go trans, radiator , new trucool cooler then back to trans????
I've also decided that I'm taking it in for a new trans install on Wednesday. He likes the tugger kit and installing a triple disc, billet TC. Looking forward to getting this going.
If rebuilding trans then I would hang the cooler but not plumb it in. If you have contamination in your trans presently it could contaminate the new cooler. Most trans shops won't warrantee a trans without new coolers.
#19
Originally Posted by ReBilld
Have you found out yet if the flex plate was cracked ?
Originally Posted by fordman67
Start at trans front fitting,then into rad,out of rad cooler to trucool then to rear line.
If rebuilding trans then I would hang the cooler but not plumb it in. If you have contamination in your trans presently it could contaminate the new cooler. Most trans shops won't warrantee a trans without new coolers.
If rebuilding trans then I would hang the cooler but not plumb it in. If you have contamination in your trans presently it could contaminate the new cooler. Most trans shops won't warrantee a trans without new coolers.
What about how the cooler should mount. Fitting up or down? Or no difference?
#20
No. you can't see if it's cracked with the trans in. There is a spacer between the engine and plate, blocking the view.
Exactly. I asked him if he would hook it up if I mounted it. I got a little worried at first because it didn't look like it would fit b/w the grill. I measured it again and it seems it will be tight but should work even with the IC behind it.
What about how the cooler should mount. Fitting up or down? Or no difference?
Exactly. I asked him if he would hook it up if I mounted it. I got a little worried at first because it didn't look like it would fit b/w the grill. I measured it again and it seems it will be tight but should work even with the IC behind it.
What about how the cooler should mount. Fitting up or down? Or no difference?
#21
#25
I have to say I know nothing about a auto trans. I've learned about it the past weeks than ever. So, I made my mind up that since the flex plate wasn't making the noise - a rebuild is a definite. Most comments I've read seem to say two things. Upgrade the TC and add a shift kit. Now I'm reading about steel planetary gears - 6 pinion vs aluminum stock?
I have a 97. I've read an website saying that they offer parts to make it a 97 which had the most upgrades. So does 97 have steel or aluminum? Do I need to upgrade to steel? What the advantage? I realize steel is stronger and assuming I have the original trans, aluminum has lasted a long time.
I use the truck to pull a 28 ft steel, goose neck, 4 horse trailer. Diving time is mostly spent unhooked, but that could change since the trailer is working order. Just replaced brakes drums and bought new tires.
Is this necessary? Other upgrades necessary or needed?
I have a 97. I've read an website saying that they offer parts to make it a 97 which had the most upgrades. So does 97 have steel or aluminum? Do I need to upgrade to steel? What the advantage? I realize steel is stronger and assuming I have the original trans, aluminum has lasted a long time.
I use the truck to pull a 28 ft steel, goose neck, 4 horse trailer. Diving time is mostly spent unhooked, but that could change since the trailer is working order. Just replaced brakes drums and bought new tires.
Is this necessary? Other upgrades necessary or needed?
#26
I have to say I know nothing about a auto trans. I've learned about it the past weeks than ever. So, I made my mind up that since the flex plate wasn't making the noise - a rebuild is a definite. Most comments I've read seem to say two things. Upgrade the TC and add a shift kit. Now I'm reading about steel planetary gears - 6 pinion vs aluminum stock?
I have a 97. I've read an website saying that they offer parts to make it a 97 which had the most upgrades. So does 97 have steel or aluminum? Do I need to upgrade to steel? What the advantage? I realize steel is stronger and assuming I have the original trans, aluminum has lasted a long time.
I use the truck to pull a 28 ft steel, goose neck, 4 horse trailer. Diving time is mostly spent unhooked, but that could change since the trailer is working order. Just replaced brakes drums and bought new tires.
Is this necessary? Other upgrades necessary or needed?
I have a 97. I've read an website saying that they offer parts to make it a 97 which had the most upgrades. So does 97 have steel or aluminum? Do I need to upgrade to steel? What the advantage? I realize steel is stronger and assuming I have the original trans, aluminum has lasted a long time.
I use the truck to pull a 28 ft steel, goose neck, 4 horse trailer. Diving time is mostly spent unhooked, but that could change since the trailer is working order. Just replaced brakes drums and bought new tires.
Is this necessary? Other upgrades necessary or needed?
#27
#28
#29
#30
Thanks, Mark. They couldn't read it. I didn't ask what scanner they had. It has and still installed on the divers side port.
So this is what was wrong.
1. Torque converter
2. Pump gears
3. Forward driver clutch
No break in the flex plate.
What was replaced
1. Flex plate -missing teeth
2. Toque converter- triple disc, billet
3 . Tigger shift kit
4. Steel planetaries - didn't know he was going to do this
5. Pump rebuild
Drives great. Had posted a question on another thread about what seems like a shift between 3rd and 4th but it seems to be normal.
Overall the noise I had wasn't the flex plate but the torque converter. Expensive but so much cheaper than a 6.7!
So this is what was wrong.
1. Torque converter
2. Pump gears
3. Forward driver clutch
No break in the flex plate.
What was replaced
1. Flex plate -missing teeth
2. Toque converter- triple disc, billet
3 . Tigger shift kit
4. Steel planetaries - didn't know he was going to do this
5. Pump rebuild
Drives great. Had posted a question on another thread about what seems like a shift between 3rd and 4th but it seems to be normal.
Overall the noise I had wasn't the flex plate but the torque converter. Expensive but so much cheaper than a 6.7!