We're getting ready to go through the "breathing" system of the Excursion and seal up any turbo, CAC, and plenum leaks.

While the stuff is off and out of the way, we're going to replace the HPO lines and upgrade to the SPX Turbo wheel. Also time to finally install that new EBP sensor tube I bought ages ago

Tired of oil scum on the top, which I know is robbing her of her full potential. I've also heard that the HPO lines are a recommended 100k service/replacement interval, so may as well prevent any catastrophic failures on this approx 190k truck.

Here is a list so far.

1. Plenum CAC Boot Kit - 99.5-03 1 RiffRaff Diesel $26.00 - Deleted, parts included in complete kit below.

2. Complete CAC Intercooler Boot Kit 99-03 1 RiffRaff Diesel $128.13 Complete CAC Intercooler Boot Kit - Ford 7.3L Powerstroke 99-03

3. Plenum Reseal- Ford sealant ??? Where to get this and how much??? Deleted, not needed because of billet plenums

4. HPOP Line Driver Side 1 RiffRaff Diesel $89.33 HPOP Line - Driver Side Head

5. HPOP Line Passenger Side 1 RiffRaff Diesel $89.91 $89.91 HPOP Line - Passenger Side Head 99.5-03 - Riffraff Diesel Performance

6. RDP Plenum Reinforcing Inserts™ - Ford 7.3L 99.5-03 1 RiffRaff Diesel $38.58 Deleted, not needed because of billet plenums

7. CCV Vent Cover Orings 1 RiffRaff Diesel $4.50 CCV Vent Cover Orings

8. Motorcraft TA31 RTV Silicone Sealant 1 RiffRaff Diesel $16.61 Deleted, not needed because of billet plenums

9. Oil Rail Plug O-ring Kit 2 RiffRaff Diesel $7.00 Oil Rail Plug O-ring Kit for Ford 7.3L (94-03) - GZ-8-003

10. Parker 60VLV-5 Viton Sleeve 5/16 inch1 RiffRaff Diesel $2.54 Parker 60VLV-5 Viton Sleeve 5/16 inch

11. Parker 60VLV-6 Viton Sleeve 3/8 inch 1 RiffRaff Diesel $2.54 Parker 60VLV-6 Viton Sleeve 3/8 inch

12. Parker 60VLV-4 Viton Sleeve (1/4 inch) 1 RiffRaff Diesel $5.20 Parker 60VLV-4 Viton Sleeve (1/4 inch)

13. Intercooler Boot Complete Clamp Kit 7.3L 99.5-03 1 RiffRaff Diesel $47.99 Intercooler boot complete clamp kit for Ford 99.5-03 7.3L Powerstroke

14. Riffraff Diesel Billet Intake Manifold Plenums 1 RiffRaff Diesel $329.00 Riffraff Diesel Billet Intake Manifold Plenums for Ford 7.3L 94-03

15. Fuel Pressure Relief Rebuild Kit 1 RiffRaff Diesel $60.48 $60.48 Fuel Pressure Relief Rebuild Kit for Ford 7.3L Powerstroke (99-03)

I already have the SPX Turbo wheel and orings kit. Turbo was rebuilt about 20k ago.

Powerstroke 7.3L Turbo SPX Billet Compressor Wheel (1994 - 2003) $159.99 Powerstroke 7.3L Turbo Billet Compressor Wheel (1994 - 2003) ? SP Turboost Company, LLC





The plan is to remove most of the "stuff" on top of the engine, remove the intake plenums, inspect and clean all the surfaces (looking for the leaks) and resealing and reinstalling the intake plenums.

Then inspect all the plugs and orings (maybe I should order a handful and just replace the orings on all the plugs I can reach?), inspect the HPx orings, inspect the HPOP for leaks, replace the HPO lines (inspect the fittings orings), replace the plenum boots and all 4 CAC boots.

I will also break the wastegate actuator rod free while the turbo is out. It has a dimple on the nut that makes it impossible to turn while on the truck. Might consider cutting the rod and installing a turnbuckle and locking nuts...maybe

Going to break the EBP tubing and sensor free and install the replacement tube. Plan on checking the old to see how blocked it may be.

Likely add the second fuel pressure sensor to the fuel bowl while things are out of the way, and figure out where/how to install the boost sensor

Will likely install the dual EGT sensors in the manifolds while I'm at it. Probably while waiting for the grey stuff to set up on the plenums.

We'll see what else comes to pass. I still need to resolve the high fuel pressure issue, but I'm going to wait until I have the second sensor installed (this one pre-filter), just in case the other sensor is bad for some reason.

Not sure if I should do anything with the CCV or not I don't like the idea of oil dusting the turbo wheel, but it doesn't really hurt, does it?

I am planning on adding the extra hole to my AIS box, through the fender, too. May as well, since it will all be disconnected anyways

Wonder if it would be wise to pull the valve covers and retorque the injectors while the top stuff is off? Opinions on this?

I figure this will be a good 2 or 3 days, as the RTV has to set up over night. I am really hoping my topside creeper will give me decent access. It's been a while since I could use it. If not, the welder and torch will be coming out!

Any other things I should be checking? Suggestions, tips, other service items?

Thanks!

 

For the plenums Dealer has the silicon either IH or Ford dealer its an expensive little tube but will be worth it.
Leave the CCV in its place, won't hurt a thing it also helps if by any chance there's a leak in the air filter housing to detain some of the dirt. As for injectors being torqued more, it wouldn't hurt but like my work truck they never became loose at 392k they get loose when they get worked on. Do you use your EBPV? If not a deleted pedestal could be a good idea, one less thing that might cause a leak.

 

Thanks for the tips!

I do use the EBPV. It helps warm up the cab with the remote start for the family in the winter.

I hear there is a filter element in the CCV, might pull it and clean it. Might not

Do you know how much of the Ford grey stuff I need?

We replaced the injector orings about 35k ago. I've never re-checked the torque. I hear checking the torque is a helpful way to find failed orings- too loose, bad orings. I know there is a thread on that somewhere.... where's @Tugly when you need him? LOL.

 

I think I paid somewhere around $12 with my Commercial account




Or



I got this from IH dealer for $8 iirc. But its way less than the motorcraft. You never want to cheap out when sealingvthe Intake plenums.

 

Thanks!

9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

 

Looking at your list,#2 has all 6 boots you don't need #1.
Diesel o rings has that sealant.
And just for the heck of it,why not billet Plenums?

 

How are your up pipes?

 

Good catch! Updated the first post

Billet plenums? $$$ and shouldn't be needed. I have other things that need done yet, otherwise a good product and nice bling would be more likely. But not right now

Thinking 2 tubes of the sealant, or just one?

Thanks

 

New Dorman bellowed last year. I plan to check the joints for leaks while I'm in the area, though. Good thinking

Thanks!

 

One will do. I still have some left over from when I swaped the engine on one of the work trucks, that included sealing the oil pan.

 

Cool, thanks!

 

Understand the money deal.
Just a heads up on the ebp tube,I bought a new one from riff raff and it would not fit no matter which way I tried to install it . I compared it to the original one and it was bent a completely different way,I know I ordered the right part,packaging # match my order,this is not a slam against clay,not his fault,I just got a bad one I guess. I cleaned up the old one and put it back on.

 

Funny thing, I actually ordered a set of the billet intakes early in the year (or end of last year?) from Beans. It never came and nothing heard for a long time so I cancelled the order

In the meantime, I figure I can pull everything off and clean and reseal anyways, so it's better to go through all the other things and get the "known" and wise things sealed up. *And it will all come in for less than a set of the new plenums

The upgraded plenums are very nice. Sure would save time if I wasn't planning on tearing everything else down anyways. I was in that boat a while back, but now have decided it's better to take it down, clean it all, and eliminate all the leaks.

My components are all in very good (rust free) shape, so no reason I wouldn't expect the plenums to seal back up nicely. A bit more OCD style cleaning of the surfaces, but that's okay. The benefit will be a nice clean motor afterwards that *should* stay that way

I ordered this tubing from Advance Auto quite a while back. But good heads up on comparing it to the original. I'll do that. I also have an old speedo cable here, just in case I need to go with the original. I'll give it a critical eye before trying to install

 

I read here recently (possibly Y2K57W) there are early and late versions of the EBP tube. Don't recall why the bend changes were made but in theory they are interchangeable, the origin and destination points are the same.

OP - passenger side fuel line inspection? Not 'breathing' per se but you'll be right there...

When I was there recently I noticed a bit of wear on the line from moving in the clamp. The line is not gripped solidly, it could wiggle in the clamp. I figured vibration was the culprit. Rather than take it apart and apply some tape or rubber dip I decided to just give the clamp a nudge to apply just enough preload on the line to prevent vibration. Then later I began to wonder if the wear was due to thermal expansion of the line, not vibration. In this case by applying side load to the line I'm increasing friction and resulting wear. So yeah, I went full Tugly on a simple issue.

 

Good idea!

I checked that when doing the uppipes last time. I'll check again. I wrapped the bracket-rub-risk part of the line with tape. I'd like to do better this time and check very closely.

Ahh...yes, I've fallen down that rabbit hole a few times myself