Lights not working. Help a new guy out.
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New User
Joined: Sep 2016
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Lights not working. Help a new guy out.
Hello from the Mountains of NC. I've owned a few fords including an f150(1999) in the past. I would not be what you call a loyal fan of any brand.. if it works, I keep it. If it can't be fixed I get rid of it. Chevy, Ford, Honda or whatever.
I just won this truck on ebay.
Just received it tonight from FL. She starts right up, the 400 was rebuilt 7k miles ago and sounds good. Truck is by no means a show piece but she looks good, 86" tall. Ran fine, a little play in the steering wheel but having another 70s era vehicle I know this is normal.
What I did have questions on is the brake lights and turn signal do not work at all. I pulled the **** next to the windshield whipers and the headlights and running lights came on but thats it.. The seller told me this all worked and he's been a super nice guy/did stuff he did not have to do so I don't think it's anything silly. But since this is my first older truck, any ideas on that?
In my defense I did google these issues and most of the answers I found were "Is the light in backwards" or "Your brake lights work but your turn signals do not". Nothing that really fit the problem I'm having.
Thanks for answering a stupid question.
I just won this truck on ebay.
Just received it tonight from FL. She starts right up, the 400 was rebuilt 7k miles ago and sounds good. Truck is by no means a show piece but she looks good, 86" tall. Ran fine, a little play in the steering wheel but having another 70s era vehicle I know this is normal.
What I did have questions on is the brake lights and turn signal do not work at all. I pulled the **** next to the windshield whipers and the headlights and running lights came on but thats it.. The seller told me this all worked and he's been a super nice guy/did stuff he did not have to do so I don't think it's anything silly. But since this is my first older truck, any ideas on that?
In my defense I did google these issues and most of the answers I found were "Is the light in backwards" or "Your brake lights work but your turn signals do not". Nothing that really fit the problem I'm having.
Thanks for answering a stupid question.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,698
Likes: 7
From: Taxachusetts
Welcome to FTE. Lots of good people here to help.
First, check your ground connections at the back tail light assembly...they ground out on the frame. Check the pigtail connections for rusty/worn nubbies where the bulbs go.
Check for voltage to ground with a test light on these puppies also. Make sure the wires are in good shape - jiggle, wiggle 'em to find out.
There's a brake light switch on the brake pedal that's adjustable. Check it out or pull it and check for continuity. If it's good, adjust it if needed.
Turn signal or turn signals? You could check the flasher - if the 4 ways come on, the bulbs/grounds are ok...if not, check 'em as noted above.
I won't get into the turn signal switch in the steering column until you've done the other troubleshooting. Someone else might chirp in with other suggestions too, but check your grounds first.
Keep us informed?
First, check your ground connections at the back tail light assembly...they ground out on the frame. Check the pigtail connections for rusty/worn nubbies where the bulbs go.
Check for voltage to ground with a test light on these puppies also. Make sure the wires are in good shape - jiggle, wiggle 'em to find out.
There's a brake light switch on the brake pedal that's adjustable. Check it out or pull it and check for continuity. If it's good, adjust it if needed.
Turn signal or turn signals? You could check the flasher - if the 4 ways come on, the bulbs/grounds are ok...if not, check 'em as noted above.
I won't get into the turn signal switch in the steering column until you've done the other troubleshooting. Someone else might chirp in with other suggestions too, but check your grounds first.
Keep us informed?
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 9,111
Likes: 3
From: Lexington Mo
Again, welcome to the FTE
And again, check the grounds, fuses, bulbs are good, and as you mentioned in correctly, since they will fit either way. Switches, connectors under the chassis, and at the light sockets too
And again, check the grounds, fuses, bulbs are good, and as you mentioned in correctly, since they will fit either way. Switches, connectors under the chassis, and at the light sockets too
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 14,333
Likes: 247
From: Stanley, VA
Like everyone else, welcome to FTE. Lots of good, knowledgeable people here.
First, when you turn the headlights on, do the taillights turn on? These are on the same circuit as the running lights.
You said the turn signals and brake lights don't work. There could be a single cause to both issues. The brake lights work through the turn signal switch.
Like said before, check fuses and connections. Get a VOM or test light and check for voltage at the brake light switch. Check the semi-circular plug that is the turn signal switch connector on the steering column, under the dash.
I would initially look at the turn signal switch and wiring. If it was the brake light switch, you should still have turn signals.
Here's a link to the factory wiring diagrams. If yours is a '78, you can use the '79 schematics. They haven't got the complete '78 set yet.
1973-1979 Ford Truck Wiring Diagrams & Schematics - FORDification.net
Another good source for info and troubleshooting on these trucks are the two "stickies" at the top of the forum.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...then-some.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...mpilation.html
First, when you turn the headlights on, do the taillights turn on? These are on the same circuit as the running lights.
You said the turn signals and brake lights don't work. There could be a single cause to both issues. The brake lights work through the turn signal switch.
Like said before, check fuses and connections. Get a VOM or test light and check for voltage at the brake light switch. Check the semi-circular plug that is the turn signal switch connector on the steering column, under the dash.
I would initially look at the turn signal switch and wiring. If it was the brake light switch, you should still have turn signals.
Here's a link to the factory wiring diagrams. If yours is a '78, you can use the '79 schematics. They haven't got the complete '78 set yet.
1973-1979 Ford Truck Wiring Diagrams & Schematics - FORDification.net
Another good source for info and troubleshooting on these trucks are the two "stickies" at the top of the forum.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...then-some.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...mpilation.html
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,626
Likes: 78
From: NE Texas
Respectfully I would disagree with Mike - I would say to check your grounds, bulbs, and sockets FIRST - based on my limited experience those are far more often the cause of a failure than a bad switch (unless you have some obvious clue like a huge amount of slop in the switch!), and easier to check. I would suggest checking all four corners, too, even if the problem is in the back - a bad connection or ground in the front will often screw up the rear, too. Plus, the corners are only a few screws and minutes each to check. (This is why there are 31 flavors...everyone's experience is different. )
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 14,333
Likes: 247
From: Stanley, VA
I was letting the OP know that brake lights and turn signals are tied together, what affects one my be affecting the other too.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,626
Likes: 78
From: NE Texas
Mike, no major disagreement - at one point you said to check the switch and wiring first; I normally start at the corners and work in (like I said, in my experience most of the issues are outboard rather than in the switch. No matter what, we're both saying he needs to check that he's got juice to good sockets and bulbs, and good grounds past that. We're just looking down the path a tad differently. Potayto, potahto...
Nice looking truck in any case.
Nice looking truck in any case.
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Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 14,333
Likes: 247
From: Stanley, VA
Mike, no major disagreement - at one point you said to check the switch and wiring first; I normally start at the corners and work in (like I said, in my experience most of the issues are outboard rather than in the switch. No matter what, we're both saying he needs to check that he's got juice to good sockets and bulbs, and good grounds past that. We're just looking down the path a tad differently. Potayto, potahto...
Nice looking truck in any case.
Nice looking truck in any case.
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Quick update. I replaced all the fuses related and that did nothing. The old fuses did not appear to be blown.
Radio, Headlights, Running lights all work.
Hazards, Turn Signal, Brake Lights, Speedometer and horn do not work.
Would the speedometer gauges and those lights all have a common fuse or ground wire?
Thanks in advance for all your help. I'm a younger guy and when I got my C3 vette I was stepping into the classics world, still learning this stuff.
Radio, Headlights, Running lights all work.
Hazards, Turn Signal, Brake Lights, Speedometer and horn do not work.
Would the speedometer gauges and those lights all have a common fuse or ground wire?
Thanks in advance for all your help. I'm a younger guy and when I got my C3 vette I was stepping into the classics world, still learning this stuff.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 789
Likes: 7
From: Durham, NC
Man it stinks to have such a good looking truck and can't drive it due to no lights...
Brake and hazards are the same bulb but turn lights are different bulb. So if 4 bulbs aren't working, chances are you have a bad ground.
The speedometer is cable driven. Either goes to the tranny or t-case. It's pretty simple to diagnose. You can pull it out of the tranny/t-case and remove the clip and take the teeth wheel off and place the cable end in a drill to check the speedo gage.
As for the horn, I'd start by applying 12v directly to the horn(s) and see if it works?
Is there any spliced wires under the dash? Pretty common for PO's to think they can wire a truck better than the factory did.
I've fixed sloppy steering on several trucks by untightening the jam nut on top of the steering box and tighten the slotted bolt with a big flat head screwdriver. Some people advise that you can mess a box up like that but I never have. Just go like 1/8 turn and check for desired slop. My experiences, usually about a half a turn takes all the slop out.
Brake and hazards are the same bulb but turn lights are different bulb. So if 4 bulbs aren't working, chances are you have a bad ground.
The speedometer is cable driven. Either goes to the tranny or t-case. It's pretty simple to diagnose. You can pull it out of the tranny/t-case and remove the clip and take the teeth wheel off and place the cable end in a drill to check the speedo gage.
As for the horn, I'd start by applying 12v directly to the horn(s) and see if it works?
Is there any spliced wires under the dash? Pretty common for PO's to think they can wire a truck better than the factory did.
I've fixed sloppy steering on several trucks by untightening the jam nut on top of the steering box and tighten the slotted bolt with a big flat head screwdriver. Some people advise that you can mess a box up like that but I never have. Just go like 1/8 turn and check for desired slop. My experiences, usually about a half a turn takes all the slop out.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,626
Likes: 78
From: NE Texas
Think you will find that your brake lights and turn signals use the same bulb - it's a two-filament 1157 bulb. Unscrew the lenses, use a test light to check you have juice to the sockets - should be when the running lights are on, you will have constant 12V+ to one contact in the sockets. When the turn signals or hazards are on you should have intermittent 12V+ to the other base contact. You should ground through the side contact of the socket. When your brakes are on, you should have constant 12V+ through the same contact as the intermittent 12V+ for turn signals. If niot, start working your way back through the harness.
Do the dash indicators for turn/hazards work at all? If not, also check your flasher unit behind the dash and be sure it is getting power. With the hazards on it should have constant power in, and intermittent power out on another post, I believe.
Do the dash indicators for turn/hazards work at all? If not, also check your flasher unit behind the dash and be sure it is getting power. With the hazards on it should have constant power in, and intermittent power out on another post, I believe.
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New User
Joined: Sep 2016
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Think you will find that your brake lights and turn signals use the same bulb - it's a two-filament 1157 bulb. Unscrew the lenses, use a test light to check you have juice to the sockets - should be when the running lights are on, you will have constant 12V+ to one contact in the sockets. When the turn signals or hazards are on you should have intermittent 12V+ to the other base contact. You should ground through the side contact of the socket. When your brakes are on, you should have constant 12V+ through the same contact as the intermittent 12V+ for turn signals. If niot, start working your way back through the harness.
Do the dash indicators for turn/hazards work at all? If not, also check your flasher unit behind the dash and be sure it is getting power. With the hazards on it should have constant power in, and intermittent power out on another post, I believe.
Do the dash indicators for turn/hazards work at all? If not, also check your flasher unit behind the dash and be sure it is getting power. With the hazards on it should have constant power in, and intermittent power out on another post, I believe.
The culprits I'm looking at are either a unground wire or the little kit inside the steering wheel(forgot the correct name)
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,626
Likes: 78
From: NE Texas
Well, sounds like a wiring diagram and a test light plus a lot of circuit tracking are in your future... best of luck! The good part is that if you do have to pull the dash apart to get to the wiring in back, it is relatively quick and painless.
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 14,333
Likes: 247
From: Stanley, VA
That's the turn signal switch