Hi, I have a 1978 F100 4x4 V8 351.

The steering has slop.

Have just had the drag link replaced. Hoping it would rectify the issue.
The garage put the steering wheel on un level. I.E. 15 degrees out.
Will I have to pull the steering wheel to get this back?

Any how, my question is what do you do with the power steering box.
Because I don't see being able to get a new one. So recondition?

I have seen some TouTube Vids where they have adjusted the slope on the box. Not sure if mine has this adjustment screw. Will try to check in the light of day before work tomorrow.

Thanks,

 

Make your life easy: https://www.redheadsteeringgears.com...FdU8gQodcnUC9Q
Steering gears that you get from the parts store are the so-called "spray and pray" rebuilds. They are resealed only, the hard parts to actually rebuild them haven't been available for years. These boxes actually have a design flaw in them that Redhead takes care of. They also remachine the parts that need it.
There is a preload adjustment on the steering, that little stud that sticks out of the cover, but this will not take slop or play out of the steering.
You can reindex the steering wheel, but you'll need to remove it.

 

X2 on get a Redhead, pricey but worth it in the end. Also make sure your ball joints, wheel bearings, tie rod ends, trac bar (both ends), steering shaft "rag"/flex joint and radius arm bushings are all good.

Rentable from most auto parts stores is a "steering wheel puller", comes in a kit form and is what is used to properly remove your steering wheel. Using alternate methods like yanking, trying to screwdriver pry ect..can result in a severely cracked wheel and pot metal column shift cover.

Adjusting that screw can really made a bad box, get even worse.

Here is how some folks say to do it. For the steering - Start by adjusting the slack adjuster - it will be a locknut over what appears to be a bolt with a screwdriver slot. Put a screwdriver into the slot to hold it and back off the locknut. Slowly turn the screwdriver clockwise while rotating the steering shaft back and forth until there's very little to no play. Hold adjustment bolt and tighten the locknut. With power steering this is done with the engine running. Once the slack is adjusted out of the steering box, look at the top of the steering column (still under the hood) under the master cylinder. There's a heavy fiber washer (sometimes referred to as a rag joint) (1/2 ton only) that makes a coupling in the column, usually this is worn out and the cause for excessive steering play.

Steering adj #2 all you have to do is on the steering box you will see a threaded screw with a jamb nut keeping it locked down. put a screw driver on the screw and loosen the jamb nut, then with the jamb nut loose , tighten the screw till it stopes, then back off counter clockwise for one full turn, then holding the screw, lock down the jamb nut. take the truck for a ride and see how it feels, if it is still too sloppy, loosen the jamb nut and turn clockwise a quarter of a turn and retighten the jamb nut. if the steering is too hard or feels like its binding , hold the jamb nut and loosen the set screw a quarter of a turn from your initial setting.

NO large adjustments to that screw!

 

Hi, back to this little gem. I took a look yesterday. As I was thinking of trying to adjust (tighten) the steering box. The adjusting bolt is a pain to get to, to adjust. As the adjusting bolt is under the wheel arch (right hand drive) and really awkward to get to and alter as its difficult to get a screw driver / alan key in.

I think on a US truck you can get to the adjusting bolt from with in the engine bay, is this correct?

I would imagine someone has done this steering adjustment though right?

Thanks,

 

Do NOT mess with that adjusting bolt, it only sets the preload of the sector shaft.

Over tighten it, the box could lock up. Backing the bolt off when this occurs, may not unlock it.

 

And all this should be done with the box in it's verified "on-center" position.
Is the truck lifted, modified or just sitting without the body or engine on? Anything that would change the height of the truck, and therefore the position of the box in other words?

The wheel being off center is one clue that something has changed or someone put something back together incorrectly when it was worked on.
The steering box is the main component that every other part must be "keyed" from. To that end, disconnect the draglink or pitman arm from the box (whichever is easier) so that the linkage does not limit movement.
Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock in both extremes and count the number of turns in one full direction.
If it's 4.5 turns, then you turn the steering wheel back EXACTLY 2.25 turns to the center. This is the position that everything else must match. The gears mesh differently in this position than in any other for a reason. So get it to that point and base every other adjustment from there.
If the steering wheel is off-center now, then yes you want to pull it and re-center it. This can be done at the wheel, or at the box coupler too if that's easier. Usually the wheel is easier, but you simply want the wheel to match the box. This way you never have to guess at the box again, as your wheel is now a verified accurate indicator.

Now, where is the pitman arm pointed? Is it a stock arm or aftermarket? Stock ones will only fit one way due to the keyed (or "master") splines that have matching splines in the sector shaft of the box.
If it's pointed straight back along the frame, or within one tooth (10°) then you're probably good to go. I'm not really sure though, as that's just the setup for an Early Bronco and not verified for all trucks. However, given that the late seventies F150 gearbox has the same orientation, it's a good bet this is how yours should end up.

Now with the pitman arm on, does the draglink pop right into the hole in the arm? If not, either your suspension is at an unexpected ride height or something is amiss with the linkage. Most often a lift or a sagged spring will put things off to one side or the other. If so, a adjustable draglink is the most accurate cure, but trackbar drop brackets and dropped pitman arms are designed to get things closer and to improve the angles.
After all, the overall angle of the links is fairly critical to a happy steering truck.

Paul

 

Oh, and another vote for Readhead. Them or PSC or West Texas Off-Road. All of whom are very familiar with the '78/'79 gearboxes.

Also, anyone with an F150 or Bronco (and many other vehicles too) would be doing themselves a favor by performing "the test" where a helper turns the steering wheel back and forth while you watch everything underneath. And I mean EVERYTHING!
From the steering linkages, to the frame around the box, to the wheel bearings and bushings in odd corners. Right back to the rear suspension.
The torque of the steering system working against the wight of the truck on the ground will be a better test than anyone can do up on a rack with a prybar or by hand.

So with the tires fully on the ground, the helper will rack the wheel back and forth roughly a half turn in each direction. You don't need to turn things all the way. You really only need enough to make the tires start to turn on the pavement. A little extra is just a bonus.

Literally any play you notice in any component will add to others to make excessive play in the steering. Worn out trackbar bushings and lower mounts are one of the key factors in loosey-goosey steering on our trucks.
Any play you see is too much in fact. A tie-rod end needs to be replaced if you see it moving sideways before the component it's attached to moves. It might not be at the danger stage, but it's worn beyond it's design limits. When they're new, these things are TIGHT with a capital T!

Good luck. Definitely check things like the steering shaft, rag joint, u-joint, gearbox, and linkage.
You're probably right that the box needs some TLC, but for sure those other things are huge when it comes to steering feel on the road.

Paul