Egr clogged again after 300 miles!
#1
Egr clogged again after 300 miles!
I'm towing an rv with my family across country and had a egr clogged in Ohio. Got replacement at O'Reillys (2nd now). Put in new part and drive fine unloaded for a day and then towed from Cleveland to Buffalo OK, but this am egr plugged again with about 5 carbon ***** (dry) in the valve. ECT & EOT are tracking good and these temps no higher than 230 on hills (TT is 9klbs). I suspect an under lying issue causing excess carbon/soot, but stomped on what that could be. Any ideas out there?
#2
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Salt Lake City, utah
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I'm guessing it's the EGR valve and not the cooler. Those carbon ***** could have been left over crap that dropped into the intake when you replaced the valve. Don't buy a new valve just open the one you have and clean it out. As for the soot is the engine lugging when pulling hills, do you have black smoke out the tail pipe. You might try some fuel additive.
#4
#6
The DieselKleen will clean out your intake over time. That may be what's going on now.
Keep cleaning your EGR valve my guess is it will clear out. Run the DieselKleen heavy and it will clean things faster.
My old truck had a functioning EGR system and after running DieselKleen it was spotless. No soot on EGR at all. So keep using it things will clean up.
Keep cleaning your EGR valve my guess is it will clear out. Run the DieselKleen heavy and it will clean things faster.
My old truck had a functioning EGR system and after running DieselKleen it was spotless. No soot on EGR at all. So keep using it things will clean up.
#7
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#8
You are hurting the engine worse ways than egr valve when rpms drop below 2k towing 9k up-hill. Tow-haul will help with keeping rpms in range but might require "relearning shift pattern". Thankfully electronics on modern diesels help alot but a knowledable driver can make the difference between 300k miles and 600k miles before engine require's replacement.
#9
#10
Ok that's not enough to matter, I was thinking back yard mix, you definitely have some build up going on with that many cleanings , and the guys are right use the DK Cetain boost this will help , and keep from idling too much , the only time I idle down is to cool the Turbo before I shut it down, sometimes it's hard when your stuck in traffic, waiting for the wife to get out of the store, or just a grocery getter, these trucks need to get up to temp , the need and like to work,
#12
Wrap a sock around the vent holes to protect the electrical , ware safety glasses and holt it over a garbage can facing down ward you can lightly pull the discs out while spraying and brushing the soot ,I put a nail in between the discs to hold them open , don't forget to put the gaskets back on over the vent holes before install , and don't over tighten the 2 bolts, if I remember right one bolt was longer than the other .just getter clean off not hospital clean lol
#13
I've never had to deal with soot since doing "Italian Tune Up" ever so often.
I've read here and on the Org about some guys going as far as removeing intake manifold then sending it to be dipped. Others have stuck a vacum hose in and used tools to dislodge caked soot from manifold. In the old days,it was standard proceedure pouring a few oz of water through carburator on gassers to de-carbon valves. DO NOT PUT WATER THROUGH A DIESEL. I just thought yall might injoy a little nostalgia. .
I've read here and on the Org about some guys going as far as removeing intake manifold then sending it to be dipped. Others have stuck a vacum hose in and used tools to dislodge caked soot from manifold. In the old days,it was standard proceedure pouring a few oz of water through carburator on gassers to de-carbon valves. DO NOT PUT WATER THROUGH A DIESEL. I just thought yall might injoy a little nostalgia. .
#14
When I had my intake out to fix a goof I used some aluminum safe cleaner.
Simple Green® Extreme Aircraft Precision Cleaner
Spray it on and into the ports when the intake is off the truck and let it sit
for a short time and drop in tank of water with a bit more in it. I wanted this
to come out really clean so I hit the intake with a pressure washer under water
so that I did not get any back splash. It does a really good job of stripping the
oils and soot off the aluminum without eating the aluminum.
Directions for Use
For cleaning anything other than factory-finished aircraft surfaces,
always spot test first. For best results dilute the concentrate
with softened/distilled or demineralized water whenever possible.
Do not allow product to dry on surface. Do not clean over asphalt.
Maximum dilution for non-corrosion to metals is 1:13 (7.1% solution)
DILUTION INSTRUCTIONS
Heavy Cleaning
Heavily soiled aircraft leading edges, blow-by, belly oil, wax remover,
and as a soak for gasket adhesives removal: 1 Part
Extreme Simple Green to 1 Part Water
Medium Cleaning
Parts washing, engine cleaning, concrete cleanup, heavily soiled floors,
traffic areas, and tool clean-up: 1 Part Extreme
Simple Green to 3 Parts Water
Light Cleaning
General hand wash of aircraft and vehicles routine cleanings of floors, and
regular maintenance of walls, counters and
more: 1 Part Extreme Simple Green to 13 Parts Water
APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS
Dilute Extreme Simple Green with water per chart on label.
Spray or sponge solution onto objects or dip them into the solution.
Allow product to penetrate the soil. Heavy soils may require scrubbing.
Damp wipe or rinse with water.
Repeat if needed.
Sean <BR>
6.0L Tech Folder
Simple Green® Extreme Aircraft Precision Cleaner
Spray it on and into the ports when the intake is off the truck and let it sit
for a short time and drop in tank of water with a bit more in it. I wanted this
to come out really clean so I hit the intake with a pressure washer under water
so that I did not get any back splash. It does a really good job of stripping the
oils and soot off the aluminum without eating the aluminum.
Directions for Use
For cleaning anything other than factory-finished aircraft surfaces,
always spot test first. For best results dilute the concentrate
with softened/distilled or demineralized water whenever possible.
Do not allow product to dry on surface. Do not clean over asphalt.
Maximum dilution for non-corrosion to metals is 1:13 (7.1% solution)
DILUTION INSTRUCTIONS
Heavy Cleaning
Heavily soiled aircraft leading edges, blow-by, belly oil, wax remover,
and as a soak for gasket adhesives removal: 1 Part
Extreme Simple Green to 1 Part Water
Medium Cleaning
Parts washing, engine cleaning, concrete cleanup, heavily soiled floors,
traffic areas, and tool clean-up: 1 Part Extreme
Simple Green to 3 Parts Water
Light Cleaning
General hand wash of aircraft and vehicles routine cleanings of floors, and
regular maintenance of walls, counters and
more: 1 Part Extreme Simple Green to 13 Parts Water
APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS
Dilute Extreme Simple Green with water per chart on label.
Spray or sponge solution onto objects or dip them into the solution.
Allow product to penetrate the soil. Heavy soils may require scrubbing.
Damp wipe or rinse with water.
Repeat if needed.
Sean <BR>
6.0L Tech Folder
#15
Hello again from the commonwealth ofVirginia. For the benefit of the forum I thought I'd check in with anupdate. After considering everyone's input and chatting with a couple ofdiesel techs I opted to have the intake pulled and cleaned in an overnightbath. Given the labor involved to pull the intake, I added a turbo clean& a new egr & oil cooler to the job. We've put about 2k miles onthe truck since the repair and no issues since. I gotta give Rod and his crew & Hot Rod'sRepair & Performance Center in Sanborn, NY a plug for their work andcustomer service. great job by them all around!!