Yeah I only buy Motorcraft or napa for anything of importance. I bought a Motorcraft from RiffRaff, got her installed but still no start. About ready to light the torches.

 

New set of readings after unplugging ICP and cranking. Red arrows note maximums while cranking.

 

When you unplugged the ICP sensor, the PCM displays default (theoretical) readings. That low ICP while cranking is your culprit, and needs to be addressed. A bad IPR won't allow the ICP to climb - ICP sensor plugged in or not. I'm not saying you flat-out have a bad IPR, but you either have a bad IPR, low oil level, internal oil leaks, or a bad HPOP is preventing ICP build-up.

 

But his ICP hit 2500 while cranking (the red arrow shows max seen)?

Edit: ignore what I said, I see what you were getting at now

 

I did install a new IPR based on the finding that the nut had backed off (tried tightening with no start). The old one was without a doubt original and really nasty looking. New IPR does show different duty cycle readings and slight oy different ICP readings but still under 100 psi cranking and spikes to 200ish when I let go of the key. Unplugged ICP with new IPR defaults to 2500 psi... I thought it was supposed to default to more like 750 but ?? Regardless, no start either way. No external leaks that i see from lines/fittings etc. just weird to me that a leak would be so wishy-washy like this and that the truck was still running as smooth and powerful as it was right up til it quit on me. I'm gonna do a buzz test just because I don't want to believe the ICP readings and then the valve covers come off to look for leaks.. It's gonna suck badly on this van to get those bad boys off.

 

Yeah, those Camel Humps were not Detroit's finest Idea.....

 

O-ring leaks aren't always a fade-in thing. One day life is OK with two leaky O-rings... the next day the truck is a shade-maker with a third leaking O-ring.

I pulled the sticks out of an engine with 190K miles, and there were 4 injectors with leaky O-rings.

 

That's good to know, I'm not sure if I can actually get them out of the heads with the body on?? The PO had the body off the frame to do the injector cups.

So before I waste any more time farting around, from what I understand a buzz test could expose a lifter with an o-ring issue correct? Or is this just going to tell me if there's an issue with the solenoid itself? Just tying to narrow it down a bit more before I try to figure out an attack plan... Really wish I had a lift and endless shop space lol

 

Here's my post from another thread about this ongoing episode:


Well I still can't figure out how the @%#& to do the buzz test in Forscan (iPhone wonderland) but it did pick up a bunch of codes that the OBDlink software didn't..

P1280 ICP Circuit Out Of Range, Low. Yeah, yeah I know
P0113 IAT circuit out of range (unplugged right now)
P0238 Turbo Boost Sensor A Circuit High Input. ?? Scratching head..
P0603 KAM memory loss...
P1212 ICP Voltage Not At Expected Level
P0340 Inactive CMP Sensor Circuit... Sounds bad?
P1211 got two definitions for this one 1.ICP Pressure Uncontrollable, Pressure Above/Below Desired
2. ICP Pressure Is Above/Below Desired, Faulty IPR Valve

What do you make of this? Smells more and more like an oil leak. I was praying it wasn't.
I can't imagine I screwed up the install of the new IPR...

Wish I could figure out the buzz test setup on Forscan on my phone, would love to hear if any injectors are being lazy.

 

You can search "Cody test" to narrow it down.

 

Will do, I think another member mentioned that as well.

 

Smoked all the o-rings on 3 injectors!

Here is the story once I had time to dig deeper:

So, I was able to isolate each head and put a hydraulic gauge on each side one at a time.

*Drivers side: Holds pressure beautifully, built up to 3000 PSI cranking, started with the passenger side line disconnected and hooked to my gauge.

*Passenger side: 0 PSI on a 3 second crank, barely made 400 PSI on a 10 second crank.. Not enough to Fire the IDM. Obviously losing pressure through the passenger side bank.

Plugged the passenger side line and it will fire on the drivers side only... bad injector o-rings/oil loss on the passenger bank.


I was unfortunately too busy to tackle this one on my own so I sent it to Oregon Fuel Injection where they verified that I did indeed need o-rings on the passenger bank... multiple injectors had toasted o-rings.
They also bench tested the injectors and all of them were "below spec"... rather than have them put it back together and have injector issues later and end up paying to R&R them again I decided to have them install a complete NEW set of injectors... SO $3500 later I should have a happy new 7.3 sometime next week.

If this were in a pickup it would be a MUCH EASIER job and I would have happily done it myself... and saved about 50% of the money!

I hear good things about their work and so far they have been VERY forthcoming about everything and have communicated VERY clearly at every step of the job.

Thanks for all the input, lots of good info in this thread.

Now, I'm off to drink some of the $$pain away

 

I'm very sorry to hear about the loss of all those Buck$Zooka rounds, but you picked an excellent vendor - they really know their stuff. I have not had to deal with a van, but I hear horror stories about access to the valve covers.

That's a decent price, considering 8 new injectors - it sounds like they weren't trying to retire on your misfortune. With the work done, the engine should perform in a way that won't make you question if it was worth it. I would up the ante a bit and have them do Glow plugs and replace the UVCHs - to reduce the chances of the need to get back in there any time soon.

 

Those vans are a most unique situation. Uppipes and turbo are right there and accessible under the dog box. Working on anything up front requires removal of extensive air intake system and the second battery is on the passenger's side mounted on the frame half way back the vehicle. A long reach jack would make changing that battery a lot easier. Valve covers shouldn't be too bad but you may have to work in the blind for a few of the center bolts. Injectors, glow plugs? You couldn't pay me enough to go there, you have to reach into the cave and I can't see how you could see anything in there while you did it. And injector cups? I imagine you'd have to pull the engine.

 

I hadn't thought about the glow plugs but I think that's a good idea, I put a call in to them after reading your suggestion and had them go ahead with that as well, so thanks for that input! As for price, I think the $1,050 they quoted to R&R + bench test the injectors was quite fair, the 256/injector was hard to swallow when comparing to someone like Rosewood but still not robbery considering they are NEW and warrantied. As to the horror stories with the valve covers, the passenger side valve cover is truly the most disturbing location of important parts on the van.. that was enough to make me outsource the repair.

This is only the second time I can recall ever having one of my vehicles in a repair shop for an actual repair that's not dyno or performance related.
As of right now Oregon Fuel Injection still has my truck and so far they have been amazingly professional. They are really quick to return calls and keep me updated without me having to hound them. I have been dealing with Scott at their office and everyone I have spoke with has been exceedingly polite and by FAR have been the most polite staff that I have ever dealt with, automotive or otherwise. Makes a guy feel good knowing that your truck is in capable hands and that the staff is on top of their game... Matter of fact, within 15 minutes of my call this morning asking for a price on glow plugs they had already called back with the info.

I will report back once I get the truck back in my possession, I have high hopes for increased MPG... I was seeing 14ish across the board, but sometimes 11.8-12.. seems low compared to my heavier 1997 F350 that gets 14.5 pretty much no matter what, even running 20% Bio.

Learned a lot of diagnostic tricks with the high pressure oil system thanks to the members here, this is a good thread for anyone experiencing this type of issue.