Power lock actuator fix
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 291
Likes: 0
From: Austin, TX area
Power lock actuator fix
Hey all
I'm tackling a couple problems in my doors next. 89 F350 Super Cab.
I've got the exterior door locks functional now for the front doors, but the power locks only work on the passenger side.
I thought it might be a short in the switch, but I've come to learn that the driver's side door lock actuator is completely missing.
(So are both the window actuator motors, but that'll be another post!)
I took video of the passenger door actuator in action.
1989 Ford F350 Super Cab power lock actuator 1
And here's the empty mount I found on the driver's side.
1989 Ford F350 Super Cab power lock actuator 2
Finally this is the driver's side lock rod mechanism.
1989 Ford F350 Super Cab power lock actuator missing rod
I think what I need is the equivalent to the Dorman 746-147.
I looked for them first at AutoNation Ford White Bear Lake (because I like sticking with one vendor if I can) but I struck out. I did found two of them for $23+ instead of $33 each from Dorman on Amazon so I think I'll go that route unless someone's had a terrible experience with the generics.
I found a walk-through on a similar age of Bronco at another forum
I'll have to wait until I get the replacement parts to see what size bolt I'm going to need.
[***************]Save[/COLOR][***************]Save[/COLOR]
I'm tackling a couple problems in my doors next. 89 F350 Super Cab.
I've got the exterior door locks functional now for the front doors, but the power locks only work on the passenger side.
I thought it might be a short in the switch, but I've come to learn that the driver's side door lock actuator is completely missing.
(So are both the window actuator motors, but that'll be another post!)
I took video of the passenger door actuator in action.
1989 Ford F350 Super Cab power lock actuator 1
And here's the empty mount I found on the driver's side.
1989 Ford F350 Super Cab power lock actuator 2
Finally this is the driver's side lock rod mechanism.
1989 Ford F350 Super Cab power lock actuator missing rodI think what I need is the equivalent to the Dorman 746-147.
I looked for them first at AutoNation Ford White Bear Lake (because I like sticking with one vendor if I can) but I struck out. I did found two of them for $23+ instead of $33 each from Dorman on Amazon so I think I'll go that route unless someone's had a terrible experience with the generics.
I found a walk-through on a similar age of Bronco at another forum
I'll have to wait until I get the replacement parts to see what size bolt I'm going to need.
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 501
Likes: 7
From: Deep East Texas
I had to replace the latch cable on my 95 F150 recently. In order to do that, I had to drill out the rivet for the lock actuator. There was no way to remove the latch without removing the actuator. Are you saying your electric window motors are missing? If possible, do those at the same time and you will save some time. I also had to replace my window motor so did it at the same time. Good luck.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
When those motors freeze up, you can't operate the locks from inside or out. Thus likely why they took it completely out of the door. I had the same issue with my '89. Couldn't turn the key or lift the handle to unlock the door, so I had to leave it unlock all the time.
Replaced the motors and works perfect.
If the white clip is not broken, you can reuse it and mount the new actuator in it, thus you won't have to drill the rivet out(been there, done that). Takes some dexterity to get your fingers down in there to get the rubber bushings installed, but that is the worst part of it. Plug it in and go.
I've gotten replacements from Autozone, can't recall what brand. Worked for many years that I had the truck.
Replaced the motors and works perfect.
If the white clip is not broken, you can reuse it and mount the new actuator in it, thus you won't have to drill the rivet out(been there, done that). Takes some dexterity to get your fingers down in there to get the rubber bushings installed, but that is the worst part of it. Plug it in and go.
I've gotten replacements from Autozone, can't recall what brand. Worked for many years that I had the truck.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 785
From: Simi Valley, CA
E9TZ-1526594-A (replaced E99Z-1126594-A) .. Right & Left Front Door Power Door Lock Actuators / Obsolete ~ 33 available NOS
Last MSRP: $350.25 ~ Dealer net cost: $210.15
1989/91 F150/350; F(Super Duty) & Bronco / 1989/91 Aerostar Cargo Door.
Last MSRP: $350.25 ~ Dealer net cost: $210.15
1989/91 F150/350; F(Super Duty) & Bronco / 1989/91 Aerostar Cargo Door.
Cross-Country
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 56
Likes: 2
From: Houston, Texas
I did this on my 1990 F150. Here is the thread - hope it helps:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-f150-2wd.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-f150-2wd.html
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 291
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From: Austin, TX area
Hooked up the new actuator on the driver's side and it worked immediately so there's no electrical problem to worry about.
Photos once I drill out the prior rivet and install the mount.
Photos once I drill out the prior rivet and install the mount.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 5,006
Likes: 72
From: Roseville, MN
How are you planning to attach the new mount? I used a bolt and nut, which worked OK for installation because I was able to get it tight without needing a wrench on the inside. But I think if I ever have to disassemble it I might be in trouble (although grinding the bolt head off is always an option).
Using a rivet would make it easier to drill out again next time, but it is a big rivet, bigger than mt pop rivet tool will do.
Using a rivet would make it easier to drill out again next time, but it is a big rivet, bigger than mt pop rivet tool will do.
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 501
Likes: 7
From: Deep East Texas
I epoxied a short bolt to the bracket. I let it cure good then put the actuator in the bracket. I used a self locking nut on the outside of the door. I did not have any trouble getting the bolt tight. I want to get some touch up paint for the nut to match the truck and make it look better.
How are you planning to attach the new mount? I used a bolt and nut, which worked OK for installation because I was able to get it tight without needing a wrench on the inside. But I think if I ever have to disassemble it I might be in trouble (although grinding the bolt head off is always an option).
Using a rivet would make it easier to drill out again next time, but it is a big rivet, bigger than mt pop rivet tool will do.
Using a rivet would make it easier to drill out again next time, but it is a big rivet, bigger than mt pop rivet tool will do.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 291
Likes: 0
From: Austin, TX area
Currently I've got a standard screwdriver head 1/4" bolt pointing outward with a matching large washer & nut on the exterior. I can get a screw driver down into the door cavity much easier than a ratchet can be used so I went with that.
I might dremel off the extra length of the bolt to minimize it catching on things, and possibly paint it. But frankly I'm not to worried about that now.
If I can find the proper rivet that'd be great. Then I'd need to find someone who owns a BIG rivet gun to do me a favor. That's a stretch so I'm currently just planning on going with what I have.
I might dremel off the extra length of the bolt to minimize it catching on things, and possibly paint it. But frankly I'm not to worried about that now.
If I can find the proper rivet that'd be great. Then I'd need to find someone who owns a BIG rivet gun to do me a favor. That's a stretch so I'm currently just planning on going with what I have.
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 501
Likes: 7
From: Deep East Texas
I'm not sure if everyone had difficulty getting the actuator in the bracket but I did. I think it would have been very difficult to put the bracket in the door, then install the actuator. With the actuator in the bracket, I'm not sure you could get a screwdriver behind the actuator. Let us know how you end up doing it. I still need to do my passenger door. Good luck.
Currently I've got a standard screwdriver head 1/4" bolt pointing outward with a matching large washer & nut on the exterior. I can get a screw driver down into the door cavity much easier than a ratchet can be used so I went with that.
I might dremel off the extra length of the bolt to minimize it catching on things, and possibly paint it. But frankly I'm not to worried about that now.
If I can find the proper rivet that'd be great. Then I'd need to find someone who owns a BIG rivet gun to do me a favor. That's a stretch so I'm currently just planning on going with what I have.
I might dremel off the extra length of the bolt to minimize it catching on things, and possibly paint it. But frankly I'm not to worried about that now.
If I can find the proper rivet that'd be great. Then I'd need to find someone who owns a BIG rivet gun to do me a favor. That's a stretch so I'm currently just planning on going with what I have.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 291
Likes: 0
From: Austin, TX area
I just removed the actuator from the bracket (easy peasy) and was left with the bracket. I spent more time debating what size bolt head would clear the bracket than I did messing with the bracket/actuator itself.