When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
For me it was a very tight fit and I had trouble spreading the sides of the bracket. Let us know if and how you get it done. Always multiple ways to accomplish things.
Originally Posted by TexanAmmo
AND....
Getting the actuator into the bracket is a bear. I consistently get one side or the other but not both. Spoke too soon.
OK, got some good daylight (the kind without rain) and time off this week to work on the truck. Got into the door actuator and very quickly fixed the bracket issue. All I did was remove the bracket from the inside of the door, put it on the actuator and then re-install the bolt from the inside. It doesn't seem to have difficulty holding the actuator in place.
That said, what seems to be my issue is there is not enough travel for the actuator rod. The kit I got came with a bunch of differerent arms, but the one I have seem most often in the youtube videos is the U-shaped one that turns completely around, not the S-shaped ones. Is that U-shaped arm not the proper actuator length for this particular truck?
I forgot to add that the power seems to work fine, but manually moving the lock pull up and down is VERY tough. My guess is that's because the actuator screw length is too long. I twisted it back inside, adjusting the length to where I could install it and had the lock pull in the down position. Still doesn't want to work, which is why I thought I might have the wrong arm on the unit.
Last edited by TexanAmmo; Dec 26, 2016 at 12:23 PM.
Reason: Forgot to add the last couple sentences
If you could check that would be awesome! I have already messed with the pin that secures the rod to the actuator, so I'd really prefer not to have to remove that again if I don't have to. It's not in good shape as it is.
Thank you! That worked flawlessly. That said, I need a new pin for one of the pair of actuators I bought. That first pin bit the dust so I need a replacement.
I thought the truck just had power locks on the front two doors, similar to having power windows just for the front. Turns out the locks are powered on the back two doors as well, but both actuators seem to be dead or some other issue is going on.
That said, I have some funky electrical going on. But that's another post.
I thought the truck just had power locks on the front two doors, similar to having power windows just for the front. Turns out the locks are powered on the back two doors as well, but both actuators seem to be dead or some other issue is going on.
That said, I have some funky electrical going on. But that's another post.
You must have a crew cab then? This year my door lock actuator froze in my rear door and I couldn't open it. I had to remove the door panel on the truck with the door shut so I could disconnect it. After looking for a door lock actuator for the rear doors I realized they are strikingly similar but for 1/10th the price. The rears are over $200 when I last checked. The only difference was the length of the actuator rod. It was much longer than the rear. I did some measuring and welded my old rod to the new short one. Its been working good now.
Yes, I have the crew cab / super cab whatever it's called.
I took a look online for replacements and it's a MINIMUM of $200 - more like $260+ for the replacements which is downright nuts. And it explains why the prior owners left it as-is.
For anyone looking for similar things, I found several threads on the forum about the same topic.
You mentioned welding the old rod to the new actuator short rod. I don't know how to weld nor have any of the equipment. I don't think anyone I knows how either.
You'd think Dorman and the other aftermarket companies would have simply made a longer rod. That would have been the cheap solution.
I think the new rod vs old rod on the actuator was different. There was a reason why I welded it on but I dont exactly remember. It might be possible to sleeve the 2 rods together. Put a metal sleeve over both ends and glue, screw, etc...
Yes, I have the crew cab / super cab whatever it's called. ....
FWIW, a "crew cab" has 4 doors and a full-size back seat. This must be what you have because a crew cab is the only one to have rear doors or opening back windows.
A "SuperCab" only has 2 doors but has a kid-sized back bench seat (or sometimes center-facing jump seats) with smaller windows that don't open.
A "regular cab" is 2 doors with the back of the cab right against the back of the front (only) seat. These are also called "standard cab" or "single cab" but abbreviating those to "SC" confuses it with the SuperCab, so it's less confusing if people stick with "regular cab" or "RC" for this.
And "double cab", "extended cab", "club cab", "king cab", etc. are terms from other (non-Ford) brands.
@NumberDummy
Thank you for the proper part. I would love to have an extra $400 around to spend on the truck, but looks like I can't afford that in the near future.
@Nothing_Special
I thought Crew Cab was a Chevy term so I was avoiding it. I definitely have a crew cab then.
How often are the junkyard version of the rear door lock actuators actually functional? What price do they go for there? Seems to me the yards would know it's not a $10 part. I doubt it's worth the effort between the time, the price and the likelihood they'll work.
I reached out to Dorman to see if they say their front door one could be modified to support the rear door style rod.
....Nothing_Special
I thought Crew Cab was a Chevy term so I was avoiding it. I definitely have a crew cab then....
"Crew cab" is one of very few "generic" terms used by multiple brands. Many pickups with 4 full size doors are called "crew cab". Dodge used "Quad Cab" for their truck that had less-than-full-size back doors (that still opened at the back) and "Mega Cab" for their crew cab that had room for a wedding reception in the back seat. Other's (I think mostly imports) have used "Double Cab". But it's definitely used for Fords.
Hey guys so I got a truck and guy didn't have keys for the door so I replace the key lock cylinder. Once replaced the key turns the cylinder but doesn't lock the door. All connecter pieces are on and in place properly. I think it is the power motor frozen. I can't even push the tab down at the top by the window. Can you guys give me some direction on what to do or what the problem is.