Nice build/resto thread. Subscribed to watch the progress continue!

 

subscribed

 

Hello Riley.. The round bales made life so much easier. It was a work out in the old days.

Hello Ed...There was a lot of debris in the cowl. I have seen this on many other trucks and I go thru my ventilation systems as I know how dirty they can get.

Thanks Aaron-71... Since this is a project truck, I will be going thru all of the systems on this truck and get to body work. It usually takes me 2-3 years to get one completed but I should get moving on it pretty quick shortly.

Thanks four sixty power.

 

I did not get any work done on my truck on my days off which are Wednesday-Friday but I did get to a bone yard that had 3 dents in the yard. To bad other customers had them all stripped down and not much left on them. I go to the bone yard and practice on their trucks and do not destroy them but dis assemble them as if it was my own. Gives me practice on theirs and saves damage on mine.

The dashes were all torn a part but I did learn a little something so it was not a complete loss. I know how dirty it can get behind the dash and what I call a field truck, like mine which has been sitting for long periods of time can get filthy from mice and just debris getting into the trucks.

I want to learn how to get the Evaporator and Heater Core out. From what I have read on the internet and my Haynes Manual, I really dont think it is going to be as bad of a job with my front clip off and I am hoping I can get good access to the unit with out pulling the entire dash out just yet.

There was 4 or 5 nuts that held the cover to the core and evaporator. I removed them and got access to the unit. I think I could just disconnect the lines outside on the fire wall and remove a few more bolts and unit will come out.

Also when you remove the cover in my hand in lower picture, this is where I found that the outside air comes from on the passenger side and the tubing that connects to the cover is connected to the passenger cowl and it had some debris in there as well. I am sure mine is going to loaded with debris from what I seen in the salvage yard.

I could not get a clear picture due to the lighting but hope this gives an idea. I will post several pictures as I go and later on when I learn these trucks, I am able to refer to my thread for the information to help others at a later time. I have a tough time finding the time of day on the internet.


Another thing I learned is there is no use in pulling the cover off under the hood. I was thinking of drilling out the rivets and replacing the rivets with nuts and bolts. The blower has to come out from the oppisite side of the assembly. So no use in drilling the rivets out. Since this truck had a mouse living in it and I am sure there is going to be a ton of dust under the dash, I will eventually clean under the dash and sanitize it with bleach water. Getting the ventilation system and piping clean will give it a fresh smell in there.

There was a sticker on the housing saying the blower has to come out from inside the housing and there would be no way of accessing the blower screws with the cover off. While at the yard, I did get a few clips and bolts I needed. Anytime I am at the yards, I grab every nut and bolt laying around. I will eventually get a nice stash of nuts, bolts, and clips.


I am now in a bigger rush to get my bed off as I think one of the bone yard trucks had a replacement plastic fuel tank in it. I was laying in the back of the truck and was in great shape. I am hoping to get my tank out and would like to get back to the yard and get it if it is the correct tank as it was in great shape.



Core Removal Thread.. [url]https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1125726-1977-f150-heater-core-replacement-with-ac.html

 

There are several different threads on here about changing the blower motor from under the hood, I don,t know where they are hiding but they are here.

 

1. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
2. Remove the air cleaner.
3. Drain the engine coolant below the level of the
   heater core.
4. Remove the heater hoses from the heater core.
5. Remove the screw fastening the A/C hose support bracket to the firewall.
6. The expansion valve is located on the right side
   of the evaporator core housing. Remove the insulating tape covering
   the valve.
7. Remove the two screws holding the plate over
   the opening that the A/C hoses exit the evaporator housing. Remove
   the plate and the seal.
8. Remove the glove box liner.
9. Separate the A/C duct from the register in the
   instrument panel and free the clip holding it to the plenum.
   Remove the duct from under the dash.
10. Remove the vacuum hose from the vacuum motor
    on the right hand side of the air box.
11. Remove the rear housing cover from the evaporator
    housing. The cover is retained by 4 nuts and one bolt. Disconnect
    the fresh air tube from the rear cover. After the cover is removed
    reinstall one nut to secure the evaporator housing to the firewall.
12. Gently remove the capillary tube from the evaporator
    core. Disconnect the wires from the icing sensor. Remove the
    plate the sensor is mounted to.
13. Remove the plenum by extracting the two screws
    above the transmission tunnel that hold the plenum to the dash.
14. Remove the screws securing the evaporator.
15. Pull the evaporator from the case and secure
    it above the case.
16. Remove the heater core.
17. Remove the heater air control door. There are
    no screws this is retained by a spring clip and snaps off.
18. Remove the arm that supports the air control
    door and the retainer that secures the pivot arm.
19. Remove the blower motor.
20. Transfer the blower wheel to the new motor.
21. Reverse the disassembly steps to assemble the
    heater A/C box.

 

Credit to Thomas Hogan on the above, I just copied and pasted

 

Looking forward to watching your work here. What did the "Explorer" package entail? I have the same badge on the next generation up (84).

 

Hello good to doo... I have been slowly going thru your build and what a fantastic job you are doing. My truck will be nice but nothing compared to yours. I am sure there is some pictures on here but I have trouble finding the time of day on the internet. I will slowly work my way thru it.

Thanks Riley... I appreciate the steps. I will eventually get into it and will plan on posting the steps for it.

Hello Osagebow...I understand the XL,XLT, and Eddie Bauer but still havent figured out the Explorer Models. Something I too am interested in.

 

No problem, best of luck on the heater core. It's such a pain

 

Thanks Riley...I am making a step by step removal of the front clip below. I know it is out there some where but I am not the best at finding the information. When I get to the heater core, I will post pictures of it when I do it and hope it will be useful in the future.

 

To Remove the front clip, Remove these 3 bolts,


............................................OR.... ..................................


I removed this one and not sure if it really needed to be.


This bolt in between the fender and door about 1/2 way up.


Bottom rear fender bolt.


I forgot to get pictures of the front frame bolts and will post them at a later time. Also it is best to remove the front bumper.

 

My oldest son come out to help me get the bed bolts cut off. I showed him how to cut and chisel the bolt heads as the bolts are just to rusted. First I tried making cuts the head with a "+" style cut but could not chisel the heads off so then I went with the hash mark "#" style and had better luck.


I still need to get the engine on my motor stand. I have a HF engine stand and am concerned if it will hold the weight of the motor. My oldest son was ready to pull the bed off but we are going to use the cherry picker to lift the bed. I showed him about the torque converter bolts but I removed those bolts as the motor was hanging from the cherry picker and was concerned that if it did fall it would get him. I removed the torque converter bolts and let him do the bell housing bolts. He got a little better understanding of how the motor turns the transmission.


Here he got the transmission seperated from the motor. I will remove the fuel lines from the bed and need to get some bolts to hold the motor on the engine stand and will try to do the smaller things so when he gets home from school, that the big things like lifting the bed off will seem like he got quite a bit done. Trying to keep it exciting for him. Usually I just go about my own pace and just go from one thing to the other. It does slow me down showing him what all is going on and what each part does but I am trying to teach him what took me years to learn.

Justin pretty happy with getting the motor and transmission a part.

 

I did not get as much done as I was hoping. As I suspected the HF engine stand is not strong enough to hold a big block. I had tried a Chevy big block on one 15 years ago and seems like it bent it as well. The plate on the back is just to thin to hold the weight. A friend of mine says he has one strong enough to hold it and I will borrow it from him in the next few days.


I have it sitting on a platform with some weight on the hoist and some on the platform until I get another engine stand.

I always mark where things that could be a balance issue with a quick splash of spray paint. Later on I will take my engraver and make a dot or some sort of reference for me to remember where they were originally located.

Here I marked the flywheel to the crankshaft for a temporary marking.

 

Thanks! Don't plan on removing the front clip anytime soon but I will one day, and the heater core is in the near future