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I have seen some YouTube videos on the process but have no firsthand experience with it. The problem with BC/CC, and catalyzed single stage paints in general, is that the new paint that is sprayed over the cured paint only has a mechanical bond...not a chemical bond. This means that the new paint that has been feathered at the points where it meets the old paint is very thin so even if you cut and buff you will always have a very thin layer at the seam. This thin layer is highly susceptible to delamination and flaking when exposed to sunlight for any period of time. Back in the day you could spray the seam with thinner and melt the seam of the old paint with the new creating a chemical bond. I have done some reading on this CC blender but I am not sure how it "melts" the old paint to create this bond with the new. I have certainly painted my share of complete panels wishing that I could just spot and blend...maybe this is worth a try.
It would help if you tell us what you are trying to do . But any blend on a clearcoat must be sanded an buffed , the area that is to be blended is prepped with the same grit as a cut and buff " 1000 + grit " cleared allowed to dry and polished . In " most "cases it is easier and faster to clear all of the panel but sometimes its just not practical and as Charlie said the blending solvent helps to create a bond but there will still be a section some where that there is a transition from chemical to mechanical bond . Blending solvent is mostly just a " thinner " that melts the old clear so is very easy to run or overdo
But any blend on a clearcoat must be sanded an buffed , the area that is to be blended is prepped with the same grit as a cut and buff " 1000 + grit " cleared allowed to dry and polished .
The clear coat blender is a liquid that is sprayed on the transition area between old paint and new clear coat that is a one-step process that requires no cutting and buffing...the "blending" is accomplished by the blender liquid alone. As I stated in my previous post, in the old days (read, lacquer) you could spray the transition area with thinner and it would melt the seam together but with catalyzed paints this is not possible...at least until now assuming that this blender does in fact work.
I use it quite a bit. I sand out past the repair with 6-800 grit, then buff the area around that with coarse rubbing compound. Spot in the base, then clear. I over reduce the last coat a bit then hit the transition immediately with the blender. Usually a light buffing/polishing is all that is needed.....
I did this on a high end black paint job where the paint was over 20 years old......no paint line. I am sold on this stuff if it holds up over time,
Make sure the blender is compatible with the paint you are using, I use a PPG product.
The clear coat blender is a liquid that is sprayed on the transition area between old paint and new clear coat that is a one-step process that requires no cutting and buffing...the "blending" is accomplished by the blender liquid alone. As I stated in my previous post, in the old days (read, lacquer) you could spray the transition area with thinner and it would melt the seam together but with catalyzed paints this is not possible...at least until now assuming that this blender does in fact work.
Sorry Charlie but I have to disagree I have yet to see a blend that does not need to be polished
Sorry Charlie but I have to disagree I have yet to see a blend that does not need to be polished
Have you used the blender? I believe that this is the point of the discussion, use the blender instead of sanding and buffing.
tinman, thanks for the input...I will be looking into various vendors for the blender that will best suit my paint. I use House of Kolor almost exclusively and have had no issues with using HOK with PPG but I will run it to ground first.
Yes I have used blending solvent and I did not say the blend was to be cut and polished I suggested the area to be blended needed to be prepped similarily and polished after its dried
It would help if you tell us what you are trying to do . But any blend on a clearcoat must be sanded an buffed , the area that is to be blended is prepped with the same grit as a cut and buff " 1000 + grit " cleared allowed to dry and polished . In " most "cases it is easier and faster to clear all of the panel but sometimes its just not practical and as Charlie said the blending solvent helps to create a bond but there will still be a section some where that there is a transition from chemical to mechanical bond . Blending solvent is mostly just a " thinner " that melts the old clear so is very easy to run or overdo
I'll post a pic later but it's my grill a 49 to hard for me to paint my painter is down the road I can get him back but I'd like to fix it myself
Thanks Charlie for the video it will be a lot easer if I get my painter back
Also thank you Tinman52 I didn't know about no sanding in the area after blending
A little OT but I woke up at 2am I heard a scream of a dog sounded like a lion got it hard to go back to sleep
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