I have had issues with my A/C for a couple years now and the water pump finally started puking out the weep hole. Mind you the water pump bearing has been squeaking for a few months. Now the older I get the less I like having to turn wrenches on this old truck but it sure beats having a truck payment. So as I saved up a few bucks...OK maybe more then a few $$$$. Mind you didn't have the money needed to buy the parts I wanted to get the jobs done. So I had to do more with less.

I bought a Airtex #AW4114 which is 1/2 the cost of OEM and it comes with the lower elbow and lifetime warranty. I also bought Gates upper, lower, reservoir to lower rad hoses, new SS clamps, Gates green stripe belt, Motorcraft thermostat and a RiffRaff billet thermostat housing. I already had a new OEM coolant reservoir and coolant filter set up.

Now as far as A/C goes I rebuilt the whole A/C system I learned a long time ago that trying to save money by replacing only the compressor will only end up biting you in the butt down the road. So I got A/C rebuild kit from Fleabay that come with NEW compressor, condenser, accumulator drier, expansion valve, O ring kit, caps & valve kit and 8ozs of PAG46 oil for under $300.

The key to doing both of these jobs correctly is start by flushing. Flushing the coolant system was no big deal I had already flushed it once before, So this time I just drained it and ran distilled water and drained it again. Now flushing the A/C system is alot more of a pain in the butt since when blowing the lines and evaporator out even with rags over the lines oil is going everywhere and oil vapors in the air. Then the I used A/C Flush Solvent to flush the lines and evaporator and that was even worse. But it had to be done as you will see why later when I post photos. Personally I would never reuse a condenser once you have a compressor issues. Just like you always replace a trans cooler after the trans goes out. With the modern design of condensers and trans coolers you will never get them 100% clean and all the crap out of them. But to each there own on that one.

I was NOT going to pull the radiator until I seen this............


I think this was the factory water pump and it made it until 230k. So I am going to guess the blue gasket is a IH part. if you look at the housing you can see where the impeller was grinding the housing !
When I took the belt off I could move the water pump shaft up and down at least a 1/4" inch.


When it came to the Airtex water pump I did not like the way the gasket fit so i bought a OEM gasket F4TZ-8507-A
Actually the Airtex gasket was thicker then the oem one. (left) Airtex gasket was .139 and was round like a oring. (right) OEM one was .130 and was flat on top and bottom.

 

When I first bought my truck, I fished out an entire bird (in tact) that was lodged against the bottom of the heat exchanger stack behind the grille. It had fallen down onto the rubber flap that forces air to flow through the exchangers instead of under the truck. It looks like your bird suffered a more painful death?

 

As you can see in this photo there was corrosion starting to get around the gasket. So after cleaning the area the gasket sits on both water pump and front cover I used Evinrude/ Johnson Gasket Sealing Compound #508235 to impede corrosion . I use it all the time when working on boats....
It is some good stuff
0508235 Gasket Sealing Compound (can with Brush) | Johnson/Evinrude, OMC | Crowley Marine


Pump painted and installed


I have to say the RR billet thermostat housing with shipping cost almost as much as the water pump. But it was well worth it not only does it do the job but it looks good doing it. It goes well with all the other black parts.



The problem I was having with the A/C was it would blow COLD around town but on the highway it blew warm. I thought to myself I'll bet the expansion valve is dirty and compressor was weak.
Well I have never seen such a nasty expansion valve and the size and types of crap that was in it amazes me it worked at All. A/C had 230k on the compressor so I'm lucky it didn't just lock up !!


Here is what I use to flush the A/C with


Now on the new condenser it is made in China and not as good a design as the oem. The oem has 2 rows with big tubes and the aftermarket one is a tube header with one thin row across. This is one of them parts it would pay to buy oem.


Here is the drier next the old one. It wouldn't mount so I used the brackets from the oem one and then cut the plastic outer housing to fit over brackets to get a clean look. It was more work then I care to say but it looks better then using the beat up insulator that was on the old one.


I changed every Oring and valve on the a/c system and had alot of extra o rings.

I vacuumed the system for 1 hour and recharged with DuPont Suva # D11125612 it meets AHRI700 and SAE J2776 Purity Standards. I'll only use good feon on a freshly rebuilt a/c system. Some of the cheap feon is recycled or not as pure.

 

Order a new condenser from a Ford dealer and you'll get one exactly like the one you got. The one from Ford comes with an updated refrigerant charge amount sticker; the charge weight was reduced with the new condenser design.

 

That is interesting... so if Ford changed the design maybe the one I got is actually a better design. Do you recall how much the new refrigerant charge was? Do you have a photo of it or part #? The sticker on my truck says 2lbs 8oz so / total 40ozs and 9 ozs of oil. That is exactly what I put in mine give or take a ounce of feon.

I have been driving the truck for a couple days now and it is nice to have the A/C working correctly. Now on the subject of cooling the cab I had also insulated the roof with X Mat #15825 from Eastwood and used aluminum tape you use on household duct work to tape up all holes in the roof frame. Also added some sound deadening pads to the front doors which also helps keep the heat out. Still need to do the back doors and rear of cab.






I had some cheap windshield covers that really didn't do much good. So I bought one that is cut to fit our trucks and is a 7 layers, down side is it cost about $40. This one actually helps keep the cab cooler when you are parked!

 

I need to do my interior like that

 

Where did you get the sun shade? I have been looking for one but those that I have seen fit like socks on a rooster

 

That is too funny..just the thought of trying to put socks on a rooster. LOL
The only thing I didn't care for was the opening for the mirror is huge but other then that it is cut to fit our windshield.
Here is a link for:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331854530992?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=540931696560&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

I'll try to look at it tomorrow, if I can remember. I've got an engine from one of our trucks on the stand for manifolds, injector sleeves and several other maintenance-y things. It's our mason dump, and there's a storm coming in the next couple days so my schedule is a bit hectic trying to get this thing done . . .

 

"That is too funny..just the thought of trying to put socks on a rooster. LOL"

Ed, that was one of my dad's favorites, but it still applies so many ways.

Mike

 

As far as the roof goes all I have noticed is it helps with the heat but I have yet to notice any difference in noise. I'll find out when it is raining. Now on the doors the only door that is totally done is the drivers door and I have 5 12"x12"sound deadening in it and I notice a HUGE difference in noise abatement. Now when you close the door it more a "dong" instead a "tink" sound and the door seems heavier. Passenger door only has 2 12"x12" pads in it. What is funny is the factory only put in a 12"x7" piece of sound deadening.
Thanks Ford for getting cheap when it came to sound deadening when you built these trucks !?!?

No rush just if you get a chance that would be great if not no biggie. Since I am stuck with the one I have.
When I pulled the factory condenser out it had a sticker that said made in Mexico.
I am glad that at least my truck was built in KY by Americans with parts from ........................


Well I love that saying and I hope Dad doesn't mind if I use that one.
Because that is too funny. That would make a great U Tube clip a "Someone putting socks on a rooster and see the rooster try to walk with them on."
That would be one p***** off rooster !!

 

Nice writeup

That's a lot more detailed info on the AC than I knew about. My cooling was a bit weaker this summer.

I was planning on adding some freon after testing the pressure, but you've done a LOT more. Hopefully that will take care of mine, else I'll be re-reading your thread

 

Ed, my dad won't mind at all. He has been in a happier place for over 35 years now.

 

My suggestion would be if you don't want to replace parts is NOT to just add feon. But would be to drain feon and remove and clean the expansion valve or replace it $3.00 and then vacuum and add the correct amount of feon. The problem can a raise when adding feon you over charge the system and the high pressure switch will cause the system to cut in & out or off all together.

I also had replaced my clutch cycle switch which is on the drier and the high pressure switch which is on the line coming off the condenser. The expansion valve is in the small (high side) going into the evaporator.

In my opinion the most common problem with a a/c sytem that is simple like the one's on our trucks is the clutch air gap gets too big and the magnet is not strong enough to lock up the clutch. The expansion valve gets clogged which leads to why does it get clogged in the first place ?? Well from what I have read it seems the compressor style on our trucks seem to have seals in them that just over time they deteriorate and pieces get stuck in the valve. I had a 1989 F150 years ago that I had just cleaned the expansion valve and I vacuumed & recharged and the a/c worked great for about a 1 1/2 yrs then the compressor locked up. Mind you the a/c was weak but working when it locked up. If you think about it the last thing you want is the compressor locking up because you will smoke a belt in a heart beat and then "POP" goes the belt. Now these 7.3's you have NO alt, P/S & power brakes and NO water pump. Last common problem is just a slow leak which in most cases is O rings or the Hi/low intake valves

I am sorry for your loss and God bless your dad's soul.
His saying will live on !

 

Thanks for that feedback. I have gauges, vacuum pump, recovery tank, and a tank of freon, so once I get a few things taken care of over the next few weeks, I will likely be asking more about this expansion valve and such


In the meantime, I just finished "emergency brake job" that grounded the Ex this weekend on only the passenger front, and am scheduled to rebuild the wheel hub and outer axle assembly and "stuff" (expensive stuff, LOL) tomorrow.

I have a good section of the front of the garage available now, so that will make things MUCH easier for these kinds of projects

I REALLY feel for guys without a place to work on their trucks. I've been only able to get about 10ft into the other garage since we got her and it...stinks! Doable, but I really gotta respect those who do their work that way