another $%#% problem
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Freshman User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 37
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another $%#% problem
On my '88 Ford I noticed my starter was turning very slow for a few days. This is a brand new starter, only a few weeks old. Then yesterday the truck doesn't start at all when I turn the switch. All of my accessories come on, my fuel pump comes on and the starter selinoid on the fender clicks and then nothing. I tracked the wire down to the starter with no noticeable burns, abrasion or breaks. I replaced the selinoid a few minutes ago and still nothing. The battery tests just fine also. What is my choice for replacement now; the ignition switch or the neutral safety switch?
When I pull the small wire off of the selinoid and jump across the ports, the truck starts right up.
Thanks
When I pull the small wire off of the selinoid and jump across the ports, the truck starts right up.
Thanks
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: May 2003
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another $%#% problem
another solinoid down on the bottom near the starter? hmph, have to go check that but didn't see anything their earlier that looked like one. Just one wire from top of fender down along engine and straight to the only terminal on the starter but I will go look again.
New User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6
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another $%#% problem
Do the lights dim a lot when you turn the key to start?
You might have to do a resistence check on the fat wire goes from the solenoid to the starter
Possible to have a corroded place inside the insulation of the wire causing an open circuit or very high resistence. It will also get very hot in thses spots. Even smoke if u hold the key down long enough
If you see a spot on the wire where the insulation is a little swollen try to bend the wire there - it will probably snap
Good luck, HTH
You might have to do a resistence check on the fat wire goes from the solenoid to the starter
Possible to have a corroded place inside the insulation of the wire causing an open circuit or very high resistence. It will also get very hot in thses spots. Even smoke if u hold the key down long enough
If you see a spot on the wire where the insulation is a little swollen try to bend the wire there - it will probably snap
Good luck, HTH
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 219
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From: SW Michigan
another $%#% problem
Is the pos. wire good and tight on the starter? I had this problem for two months after I changed my starter and solenoid. It turned out to be the pos. wire .I tightened it now it starts with no problems. Good Luck SAV
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Freshman User
Joined: May 2003
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another $%#% problem
Thanks guys...I checked the wires and all looks good there. The wire on the starter is good and tight, can't move it at all. I took a volt meter now and checked the small wire going to the solinoid and found no current there to activate the plunger, when the switch is turned over...new switch?
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 887
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From: MN
another $%#% problem
Whoops, Didn't mean to do this.
Last edited by natewoz; Aug 20, 2003 at 09:00 PM.
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 329
Likes: 1
From: Dallas, TX
another $%#% problem
I had that exact same problem and it was described to me as a "hanging starter" where my ignition switch was messing up my starter causing it to stay engaged constantly, which burnt up the starter. Pulled the starter and out poured a bunch of black powdery like charred up stuff 
. Got a new ignition switch and all is good now.
. Got a new ignition switch and all is good now.
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2003
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another $%#% problem
My father-in-law had a similiar problem with his van. The solenoid on the starter clicked but the starter would not turn over. The battery was fully charged. But the problem was the battery. It showed 12 volts but it did not have any cranking amps.
There is a tool to check the battery for amperage. It connects to the battery and puts a load on the battery using a large resistor. A guage will show the amount of amps that the battery is producing. If you can jump start the vehicle, get it to a garage and have them test the battery or borrow the tool and check it yourself. It is an easy test and may be the problem.
If you can't get the tool or don't want to pay a garage to do this, simply stick another battery in from another vehicle or connect a battery to the wires using jumper cables (disconnect the pos and neg wires from the battery in the truck). If it turns over, get a new battery.
Remember, you may have enough volts to turn on the lights and the guages, but not enough cranking amps to turn the motor.
There is a tool to check the battery for amperage. It connects to the battery and puts a load on the battery using a large resistor. A guage will show the amount of amps that the battery is producing. If you can jump start the vehicle, get it to a garage and have them test the battery or borrow the tool and check it yourself. It is an easy test and may be the problem.
If you can't get the tool or don't want to pay a garage to do this, simply stick another battery in from another vehicle or connect a battery to the wires using jumper cables (disconnect the pos and neg wires from the battery in the truck). If it turns over, get a new battery.
Remember, you may have enough volts to turn on the lights and the guages, but not enough cranking amps to turn the motor.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 14,947
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From: Topsfield, MA
another $%#% problem
If you can turn the accessory switch on, and the fuel pump spins, the lights are on, the radio is on, the heater or a/c motor is on, etc etc....you'll have enough power in the battery to atleast turn the motor over a little bit. It will only click and do nothing when that battery is dead as a door nail.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 887
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From: MN
another $%#% problem
There is a tool to check the battery for amperage. It connects to the battery and puts a load on the battery using a large resistor. A guage will show the amount of amps that the battery is producing. If you can jump start the vehicle, get it to a garage and have them test the battery or borrow the tool and check it yourself. It is an easy test and may be the problem.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: May 2003
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another $%#% problem
Does unplugging the neutral safety switch and then trying to start the truck in nuetral qualify as a way to tell if the switch is bad?
Someone told me to unplug the switch and try to start the truck. If it starts, then its the switch, if it doesn't then its the ignition switch. Gotta get 'er fixed.....
Someone told me to unplug the switch and try to start the truck. If it starts, then its the switch, if it doesn't then its the ignition switch. Gotta get 'er fixed.....
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 539
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another $%#% problem
No, not a good test. The switch is open any time the gear selector is not in neutral (I.E. can't start in gear). if you unplug it, it shouldn't start in neutral anyway. A test for the switch would be to try to start in gear.
Its most likley not the neutral safty switch. I would start testing the ignition switch. (most likely, lots of us have had the ignition switch go out).
good luck
Its most likley not the neutral safty switch. I would start testing the ignition switch. (most likely, lots of us have had the ignition switch go out).
good luck
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: May 2003
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another $%#% problem
Does no back-up lights point more to the switch since they are intertwined? I'm trying to whittle this problem down before I start replacing a bunch of crap because here we have a no return policy on electrical parts....
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