I'm looking for a few suggestions on how to get the beast running. I'm pretty clueless when it comes to things mechanical, but that doesn't stop me from getting my hands dirty.

Unit: '68 F100

Symptoms: selinoid makes a grinding sound, but starter doesn't kick in.

Troubleshooting steps to date:
-Battery is charged
-New battery cables and new cable from selinoid to starter
-Selinoid is only a few years old
-Starter replaced with rebuilt unit
-Engine turns when I put a wrench on it
-Bypassing the selinoid doesn't get a thunk out of the starter or a turn from the engine.

It tasks me!

 

buy 2 solinoids. put one on the truck, put the other in the glove box. you'll thank me later. also, you said the engine turns whan you put a wrench on it , does it crank? the key has to be turned to the right for it to run when you jump off the solenoid. it will fire if the key is not turned but will not keep running after. hey, let me add the obvious. if you have not tried jumostarting, try that first.

 

If bypassing the starter relay doesn't do anything then you either have a bad hot lead to the starter, a bad ground, or a dead starter. Being a fresh rebuild doesn't mean anything; you can get them straight from the parts store DOA. When buying a rebuilt starter or alternator it's a good idea to have the store test it first. Can save you a lot of time and frustration.

 

The gizmo on your fender with the two small leads and two large leads isn't a solenoid, it's a relay. You can use your jumper cables and go from the positive side of your battery straight to the starter. If your truck turns over then your problem is in your relay/wiring/ignition switch area.

 

o.k., go buy another gizmo and put it on then

 

It's a starter relay but many times they are listed as a solenoid at the parts store. Had plenty of part store employees look at me like I had two heads when asking for a starter relay.

-J.Banks-

 

I've had a voltage regulator keep my truck from starting before. Ya it was newer (83) but it might be worth a shot after you try these other things.

The jumper cables to the starter dirrectly is a good one just to rule that part out. On my 83 I figured it was the new starter and either the solenoid or voltage regulator took it out. After I had the started pulled a buddy hooked the starter(w/ jumper cables) to his running truck and it almost stalled the truck out. I ended up replaced the starter, solenoid, and voltage regulator

 

make sure it is in park first if you are going to try to jump the relay. Being to smart for my own good I thought mine had gone out and jumped it with a coat hanger and presto my truck roared to life and instantly backed into the power line pole that was behind it.

 

Hmmm, something is not right here. The solenoid should NOT grind? Buzz if voltage is low, but not grind. Starters "grind" when they don't engage flywheel correctly.

Ok, your "new" hot lead from battery goes to one side of solenoid, then the other side goes to starter. Your "new" ground should go to engine block. A clean spot!

If you still can't get the starter to turn, then I would look at ground wire. It's the only other link in the circuit that could make it have minimal power.

 

Make sure your starter is grounding too... I just had to replace my ingnition switch, ignition harness, various wiring under the hood, battery, battery cables, coil, solenoid/relay, and voltage regulator to get mine started.. now she starts right on the first turn of the key.. Stan

 

Well, as long as the ground strap is ON the block, the starter is then gounded as well as possible.

 

Im not trying to be a rude butt, but yes it is possible for the starter to not be grounded even if the ground cable/strap is connected to the block. There are bad grounds. And; even though it is almost impossible, it is possible, AND; even if it is grounded it still can be a very bad ground.. Stan

 

Yeah, the starter bolts could get loose, still tight enough to hold the starter to the bell housing, but loose enough to loose the ground.
Jumper cables can be used to check for ground problems as well.

 

You guys are amazing! There are so many suggestions I hardly knew where to start. So I replaced the ground from the battery to the engine block -quick and cheap to do. No change in status. Next I'm going to look for that ground strap to the starter that Freightrain sugegsted.

Thanks much!
-Todd

 

Here goes another 2 cents.
1) Check battery valotage - if o.k. then 2)
2) Unhook the right large post on the starter relay. (it's the one going to the starter) then 3)
3) If you have a test light or a dc volt meter; clamp it to the right hand post (by itself). Turn the key over like you would normally do if you where going to start it.
3 a)If you get a bright light or 12 plus volts then the problem is likely the starter.
3 b)If you don't get a bright light or 12 plus volts then the problem is likely the relay. Replace it.

You can pull the starter and test it manually. Grab a pair of jumper cables. Connect the neg. cable to the neg. post of the battery and the other end to the body of the starter. Next, connect the pos. cable to the pos. post and then "tap" the starter post with the other end of the cable.
If the starter is bad, then you should be getting a spark and the starter should not spin. If the starter spins then you likely have either a bad relay (not allowing enough amperes to flow to the starter or a bad ground as mentioned before).
I hope this helps more than hurts.

Good luck,
Robert P.