No Crank, No Start
#1
No Crank, No Start
Alright so I have a 99 7.3l and it's time to ask for some help. One day I went to start my truck and when I turn the key to the on position all is normal and then when I turn it all the way to crank it nothing happens. I hear a relay click and that's it. Me and a buddy of mine spent quite some time on going through the entire truck. The starter was replaced, the nutural safety switch was replaced and the ignition switch was replaced yet the problem is still there. We then discovered that fuse #20 under the dash keeps blowing with every turn of the key. The manual states that this fuse is a starter motor relay coil PCM ( gasoline only). So if it's gas only why is it even in there. If any one has any ideas for things I should check id appreciate it. Let me just say that I can jump the fender mounted relay and the truck starts.
#2
Here's a fuse 20 problem from a while back. Shorted wire
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...fuse-blow.html
If you pull the wire off the stater relay on the right fender does the fuse stop popping?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...fuse-blow.html
If you pull the wire off the stater relay on the right fender does the fuse stop popping?
#3
Here is a video that Pikachu posted when I was having a similar problem. It's for a 6.0 but the wiring and connector is the same from the batteries.
Jason, under the hood on the right side of the truck there's a round, single wire connector with a yellow wire w/light blue tracer. That's the wire that carries the signal to the starter solenoid. Disconnect the connector and turn the ignition to start. If the fuse blows, the problem is likely in the main wiring. If the fuse remains intact, it's either the short stretch of wire between the connector and the starter, or the starter itself.
The connector I'm talking about is shown in this DTR video:
6.0 powerstroke even crank good compression - YouTube
The connector I'm talking about is shown in this DTR video:
6.0 powerstroke even crank good compression - YouTube
#4
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#8
You can use either a Test Lamp or DVOM on the Control Wire on the Solenoid ("S"). When the Key is turned to the start position you should see Battery Voltage (I prefer the DVOM as you can see voltage drop and identify corrosion and poor connections). This will eliminate the wiring from the switch to the solenoid.
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