You have the jist of how it operates, but uncapping that plug will not make it work.

First you need to get the tube attached from the exhaust manifold. THEN, adjust the black cap til it just closes the choke butterfly(like I mentioned in my post above). Then it will work properly. Currently they have the choke set so that it stays open, you need to turn it to adjust it to close. But don't do it without having that tube attached as it will never open(because it has no heat source). Kind of a catch 22, but it needs to have both features to operate correctly.

Oh, and if the truck is overheating, that will make it hard to restart when hot. It has a tendency to boil the fuel from the carb when sitting, thus making you crank it for a moment to get fuel pumped back into the carb again to be able to start.

 

Thanks for the heads up... This is all coming together now. One last question before I buy that kit and close this chapter down....

After watching like 50 videos on carburetors and motorcraft 2100's a couple of things were mentioned. Primarily the fact that when you depress the pedal to the floor... In a cold start situation, the butterfly should snap closed in order to "enable" a choke situation. That certainly doesn't work. It never snaps closed. Will this be operating properly again once the heat choke is installed?

 

This is where it is suppose to be when it's hooked up
Orich

 

Yes, once the heat tube is installed and you set the choke up correctly(adjust it like I posted on the first page), it will snap closed when the engine is cold and you push the throttle.

Good point Rich. Ya, I bet this thing doesn't shift very well with that unhooked. Need to get the clip to hold it on the post.

 

You have it backwards. when the tube is cold it will allow the choke to close. As it heats up the air is drawn into the bi-metal spring causing the spring to lengthen thus opening the choke. So you have 2 choices to have a working choke. #1 buy the hot air tube kit and hook it up, #2 buy an electric choke kit. The electric choke kits cost between $25.00 and $50.00

 

Trans kickdown rod? From what I've read there's mixed opinions on its "neededness"

 

Geez I don't know what red neck site you've been reading but this also adjust the passing gear plus.

Then Why would every auto trans have it. ?

Not everything is true that some people post that don't know zip..'

It needs to be hooked up.
Orich

 

I've already told you this info on your other thread.........Including a pic of a 60's car SBF exhaust manifold with the choke tubes connected to it as an example.


Since the PO deleted both heat sources to unload the choke he adjusted it so it won't close.

 

Umm. Read that plenty on this site. Rofl

 

Under that black round plastic cap is a wound coil spring that is heat sensitive like a thermostat. As you engine warms up (and heat comes up the tube you are going to install) the coil spring expands and opens up the choke. As stated you spin that cap to adjust the choke butterfly. There's notches on it for your reference. Loosen the cap and spin it back and forth a bit and you will see the butterfly move. With a cold engine you adjust it so the butterfly is just closing all the way and fine tune from there.

 

After I get my choke tube replacement installed ill report out. Until then. Thanks

 

Matt, I'll toss this in for the newbies:

Clean air, from inside the air cleaner assembly, goes down through the plate and nipple. It travels down to one of several ways of heating up near/around/in the exhaust header. Then the air goes up an insulated tube into the choke housing. If the gasket is good under that black cap, there is a bit of vacuum to do the pulling on the air. As the choke moves, a little window is uncovered inside the black cap area. It eventually gets covered, by the way. The air then goes through the thick leg of the choke cap assembly. In this leg is a little figure-8-like gasket. If missing, it causes a vacuum leak. The air passage then goes down to under the carburetor, to the area under where the throttle plates are, and that is where the vacuum comes from to drive the system.

Common problems are when any of the passages get crudded up, or the heating source fails.

It is possible to wrap steel brake-line around the exhaust header as a heater, if the little 'well' built in the stock header is rusted out or plugged. (Someone my chime in with the required turns of x-size brake-line needed?)

To keep the choke assembly warm for a hot-restart, the heater hose runs past the black cap, and keeps it toasty. Inside the black cap, the spring stays warm, and opens the choke. The spring is keyed to the inside of the black cap, so twisting the cap a half-inch in either direction makes it fully open or close. The correct adjustment is within about a 1/4-inch of that travel, and changes with age. Set the opening cold, with a drill-bit as a measure. See instructions with picture in rebuild kit.

If you want to delete the heater hose, and hot-air piping, you may choose electric. I would not suggest a manual choke. Unless you have very structured habits. The choke also controls fast idle. Another topic.

Just what it is worth... 3 Cents.

 

Most of your choke issues have been covered in depth. But I did notice another problem.
Your PCV system is not plumbed correctly. As it is it will not function correctly if at all.

You have by the looks of it a PCV valve in the Oil fill cap and PCV valve on the back of the right (passenger side) valve cover with nothing hooked to it.

The PCV Vacuum source is at the back base of the cab See pic should be hooked to the PCV valve at the back of the right valve cover. That plastic extension on the PCV valve can be removed and the hose hooked directly to the valve.

The Oil cap will need to be replaced with a breather style cap. As seen here .

1965 1967 Ford Oil Fill Cap Breather Mustang Fairlane 390 Truck EC64 USA | eBay

 

Hey, thanks for the reply. Since this thread is a couple weeks old it doesn't show what happened or the current state. You are correct, that weird pcv check isn't supposed to be there... and so it's gone. It hs since been removed and replaced with a breather like you suggested. The rubber hose going into the back of the carb takes a weird path but is attached to the oil filler cap. Oddly enough I suspect that this is a possibility for a factory setwup because the hose is molded this way. Basically since I have an open air cleaner (will be getting a factory style at some point), the passenger hole has a breather and the oil cap goes to the back of the carb base.

Once I get an actual factory style air cleaner with the correct attachments /portsI will be re-routing it so the oil cap goes to the top of the air cleaner and the passenger hole goes to the base as I believe from other discussion this is the way it should be.

 

So here's how it's hooked up now.... I realize with an open cleaner it is different. I don't understand why the hose is so long though🤔




And there's a breather in the other hole.