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So here's how it's hooked up now.... I realize with an open cleaner it is different. I don't understand why the hose is so long though🤔
And there's a breather in the other hole.
Ya I forgot when Ford moved to the smaller air cleaner in 71 they switched it all up. Previously the PCV valve was in the back of the right valve cover.
Instead of starting a new thread I wanted to just ask the question here.I've now got my carb tuned pretty well while running except the priming function.
As i understand it through reading back, when you depress the gas pedal on a cold start, the butterfly should drop to the high cam on the fast idle screw. What's happening to me is that While the hood open, if I push the throttle by hand and move the butterly back myself the high part of the cam will set and the high idle will work as designed until the gas pedal is pressed again.... my issue is that when I depress the pedal for the first time in the morning the cam doesn't rotate to the high side. What am I missing? Nothing appears to be broken or not functioning.
Instead of starting a new thread I wanted to just ask the question here.I've now got my carb tuned pretty well while running except the priming function.
As i understand it through reading back, when you depress the gas pedal on a cold start, the butterfly should drop to the high cam on the fast idle screw. What's happening to me is that While the hood open, if I push the throttle by hand and move the butterly back myself the high part of the cam will set and the high idle will work as designed until the gas pedal is pressed again.... my issue is that when I depress the pedal for the first time in the morning the cam doesn't rotate to the high side. What am I missing? Nothing appears to be broken or not functioning.
It sounds like the choke needs to be adjusted "rich"er. Your PO prolly adjusted it real "lean" so the choke would not set for some reason. There are 3 screws that retain the choke's black cap on the side of the carb. And the face of the black cap will show you which direction to spin it to adjust it "lean". Just loosen the 3 screws enough so you can spin the black cap. Spin it the opposite way of "lean" to adjust it "rich". Adjusting the choke more "rich" will set it quicker (temperature wise) and it will take longer to unload. Right now your choke is set so lean that it is not setting when you pump the pedal as it should.
It sounds like the choke needs to be adjusted "rich"er. Your PO prolly adjusted it real "lean" so the choke would not set for some reason. There are 3 screws that retain the choke's black cap on the side of the carb. And the face of the black cap will show you which direction to spin it to adjust it "lean". Just loosen the 3 screws enough so you can spin the black cap. Spin it the opposite way of "lean" to adjust it "rich". Adjusting the choke more "rich" will set it quicker (temperature wise) and it will take longer to unload. Right now your choke is set so lean that it is not setting when you pump the pedal as it should.
pretty sure I have it rotated all the way back until the butterfly is almost closed. Can't go any further. Maybe I can post a video of myself pushing the throttle so everyone can see what happens.. or doesn't
Something just occurred to me. How I've been setting the heat choke was putting the idle on the high cam by rotating the throttle back and releasing it now sitting on the high idle. I just read that some people say to hold down the throttle the entire time until the choke **** is set.... which I haven't been doing.
pretty sure I have it rotated all the way back until the butterfly is almost closed. Can't go any further. Maybe I can post a video of myself pushing the throttle so everyone can see what happens.. or doesn't
Something just occurred to me. How I've been setting the heat choke was putting the idle on the high cam by rotating the throttle back and releasing it now sitting on the high idle. I just read that some people say to hold down the throttle the entire time until the choke **** is set.... which I haven't been doing.
Correct. Hold the throttle open far enough past where it would go on high idle. On a cold morning spin the black cap to where the choke flap just closes. Then go 2-3 notches richer. This is just a starting point. Adjust one notch at a time in the mornings after this,either way, until you get it dialed in. Like I said, more lean and the choke unloads as you drive quicker. More rich and it hangs in there longer.
A minor point:
This may be a trivial point if you live in a warm location, but...
When you get it dialed in pretty close, and you next replace the Heater Hose, run it through that lip-like bracket under the Choke. This will help keep the Choke warm, and open, when the engine is hot. This way, the black choke cap with the spring inside is sensitive to the state of engine warm-up, even when it isn't running. You will notice a difference upon hot start-up.
The system was calibrated for this originally, so you'll need it to have everything work just right... when you get to it.
Those chokes are finicky and problematic. Just not a very good design IMO. I always preferred to find a 2100 (yours is a 2150) from a 65-68. Then you have a carb that came factory with a manual choke. Any kit that converts an auto choke to manual will be pure junk.
An electric chokestat does help the issue some. A stock Ford one will wire into the "S" terminal of the alternator. It runs off stator voltage.
I second Willowbilly3's comments.
The alternator's stator has about 7v running through it, only when the engine is turning. That terminal beats using current from a key-on source. Closer to sensing the time the engine has been running, but not perfect in electric-only mode. The engine may be turning, but stay cold for many reasons.
Still use the heater hose to keep it toasty when the engine is hot.
And... there are electric chokes that work on 12v ( 12.6 - 14.5v range ).
Make sure you know which you ended up with, as the cap may not explicitly state it. Many will fit, but the heating profile may not be the same. There is a manufacturer assumption about what voltage was running through each type in the original application.
In another direction, I got a little black box 'thing' from NAPA that goes a step further, and has some basic logic in it. It is only about an inch square.
Not cheap. But, it has been bolted to the intake manifold for about 10 years, and has never failed. The kit came with a new 12v choke cap and thermostatic spring.
Hooks up just like the other electric chokes. Since the base tab bolts to the intake manifold, it is sensitive to the actual manifold temperature, and compensates for a half-dozen things. Very clever. They are somewhat generic in application. Here is a pic of a simple one.
Choke control. May have three wires, two to the electric choke, and one to 'keyed' 12-ish volts.
I second Willowbilly3's comments.
The alternator's stator has about 7v running through it, only when the engine is turning. That terminal beats using current from a key-on source. Closer to sensing the time the engine has been running, but not perfect in electric-only mode. The engine may be turning, but stay cold for many reasons.
Still use the heater hose to keep it toasty when the engine is hot.
And... there are electric chokes that work on 12v ( 12.6 - 14.5v range ).
Make sure you know which you ended up with, as the cap may not explicitly state it. Many will fit, but the heating profile may not be the same. There is a manufacturer assumption about what voltage was running through each type in the original application.
In another direction, I got a little black box 'thing' from NAPA that goes a step further, and has some basic logic in it. It is only about an inch square.
Not cheap. But, it has been bolted to the intake manifold for about 10 years, and has never failed. The kit came with a new 12v choke cap and thermostatic spring.
Hooks up just like the other electric chokes. Since the base tab bolts to the intake manifold, it is sensitive to the actual manifold temperature, and compensates for a half-dozen things. Very clever. They are somewhat generic in application. Here is a pic of a simple one.
Choke control. May have three wires, two to the electric choke, and one to 'keyed' 12-ish volts.
Notes. Factory Ford choke caps are designed for the approx. 7 volts. So they unload at the correct speed. Putting 12V to a Ford cap will make it unload too fast. Whether it's on a Ford carb or a Holley carb factory Ford issue. Like a 79/ 460 with a Holley 4180. And while the Ford and Holley carb's choke caps are the same diameter, you can't exchange them. The thermostatic spring on the inside of them is wound opposite.
I've wondered who came up with the Holley design 1st. Holley or Ford with the ol' model 4100. The 4100 is a 2100 2V with two more throats attached to the back of it. But there are similarities between the Holley and 4100.
