Regearing. What ratio?
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2015
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From: Colorado
Regearing. What ratio?
Here's my setup. 95 150 with a 4.9 e40d with 33" tires. It's my daily driver. Has H9 Axle code. 3.55 front and rear. I don't think I'll go any bigger with the tire as I have stock suspension. It's got a body lift and leveling kit. Should I do 4.10 or 4.56? I live in Colorado and go off road quite frequently. Thanks
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 242
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From: Oregon
I'd say 4.10's if you want to still get decent mileage on the highway. Check this out:
https://www.ringpinion.com/calculators/Calc_RPM.aspx
When you change out the ring and pinion in the rear you probably should replace the clutch packs as well if they've never been serviced.
https://www.ringpinion.com/calculators/Calc_RPM.aspx
When you change out the ring and pinion in the rear you probably should replace the clutch packs as well if they've never been serviced.
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 5,006
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From: Roseville, MN
Yes, 4.10s would be a good all-around choice, but what is best really depends on what you want. I had 3.55s with 33" tires with a 351 and E4OD in an F-150 and I thought that was perfect. But I didn't haul heavy loads very often and I didn't fourwheel it. At the other end of the spectrum, my Bronco (which I do fourwheel) has 4.10s with a 4.3:1 low range transfer case, and after having tat I can't imagine being stuck with only 4.10s with a stock transfer case. So for fourwheeling 4.56 or even 5.38 might be a lot better, but progressively worse on the highway.
And if your changing the gears and go off-oad frequently, don't bother with a stock limited slip at all. Put in a good traction-aiding diff. I'd recommend a Detroit, Truetrac or ARB in the rear (in that order, and feel free to go with different brands if you prefer) and an ARB (or other selectable locker) as the only choice in the front (although keeping an open front isn't out of the question).
And if your changing the gears and go off-oad frequently, don't bother with a stock limited slip at all. Put in a good traction-aiding diff. I'd recommend a Detroit, Truetrac or ARB in the rear (in that order, and feel free to go with different brands if you prefer) and an ARB (or other selectable locker) as the only choice in the front (although keeping an open front isn't out of the question).
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 5,006
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From: Roseville, MN
Oh, I should also suggest the possibility of replacing the transfer case rather than the gears. Regearing 2 axles could cost close to $2000. An Atlas transfer case isn't a lot more than that, so if you like your highway gears that would give you lower low range. But it doesn't help get you a locker.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2015
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From: Colorado
Yeah I know a guy that'll Regear me for 1200 so that's the route I wanna go. I do see highway quite a bit and in CO the inclines heat up my transmission. I'm wanna keep the front open and keep the limited slip in the rear. I'll get new carriers for both. If I choose to go to 35s not sure if the front will fit with a 3 inch body lift and leveled. I'll check out the calculator to see what my highway rpms will be.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Chillicothe
Here's my setup. 95 150 with a 4.9 e40d with 33" tires. It's my daily driver. Has H9 Axle code. 3.55 front and rear. I don't think I'll go any bigger with the tire as I have stock suspension. It's got a body lift and leveling kit. Should I do 4.10 or 4.56? I live in Colorado and go off road quite frequently. Thanks
Now he had a 235/75r15 which is roughly a 29 inch tall tire and you have a 33... That's about a 15% difference. So going to a 4.10 would be ABOUT the same tire to gear ratiowise. However, the 33 will have higher rolling resistance so I would go to a 4.56 to help even that out. Plus he was strictly highway. You would need the extra if you do serious wheeling.
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