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IIRC There is a check valve in the block on drivers side right behind the HPOP. could have a piece of debris in it. oil would be leaking back into the pan
Got it. Thanks for information. Just took a look at it. I will check it this weekend. I think this the issue my friend was trying to tell me about. If I remember correctly, he said he put in an extra quart or two of oil and his cranked better. Does that sound logical? If the oil level is higher wouldn't that mean the leak back couldn't go too far because of more oil? Or am I totally losing it?
The cap/plug of the HPOP reservoir is on the top of the HPOP reservoir. I think it has a hex allen fitting in it.
The T6 is diagnostic as well as helpful, if you have this problem. If it can extend your injector use time, it's easier to get your options and plan for the expense and project.
It would stink to replace injectors and still have the same problem
At least that's the intention
Found it. And thanks for information. I agree, T6 is probably way to go. I guess I'm old school ..... Just worried about putting syn oil in 200k vehicle. I know, I know.... Don't want to start that conversation again.... LOL
If I remember correctly, he said he put in an extra quart or two of oil and his cranked better. Does that sound logical? If the oil level is higher wouldn't that mean the leak back couldn't go too far because of more oil? Or am I totally losing it?
If it's leaking down overnight then adding more oil won't help, it will only increase your overall oil level. The low pressure oil pump sends oil to the HPOP reservoir. There is a standpipe in the res that sends excess oil back to the engine but keeps enough in the res for the HPO system to operate. Oil level should always be about 3/4 from the bottom of the opening where the plug is.
If you open it up after sitting for a while and the level is low then need to figure out where it's leaking down. If it's close to the top then back to trying to figure out your original problem.
If it's leaking down overnight then adding more oil won't help, it will only increase your overall oil level. The low pressure oil pump sends oil to the HPOP reservoir. There is a standpipe in the res that sends excess oil back to the engine but keeps enough in the res for the HPO system to operate. Oil level should always be about 3/4 from the bottom of the opening where the plug is.
If you open it up after sitting for a while and the level is low then need to figure out where it's leaking down. If it's close to the top then back to trying to figure out your original problem.
Got it. I will check it as soon as possible and post back. Thanks again. Great info from all.
Got it. Thanks for information. Just took a look at it. I will check it this weekend. I think this the issue my friend was trying to tell me about. If I remember correctly, he said he put in an extra quart or two of oil and his cranked better. Does that sound logical? If the oil level is higher wouldn't that mean the leak back couldn't go too far because of more oil? Or am I totally losing it?
Also when the oil level is too low a 7.3 will not run. Nice side benefit of the HEUI system. Add a couple quarts from there and suddenly it runs. But "too low" is something like a gallon low, IIRC.
As to the long first crank, I'd guess dirty battery cables or starter.
OK I am just getting back to this problem. Before checking the high pressure oil pump, I thought I would test my batteries so I borrowed a real fancy load tester with print out. Take a look at these measured numbers and see if you guys think I got a battery problem also: I tested both batteries after it sit all night.
Battery 1
Voltmeter: 12.39 (before test)
Test (CCA):
Volts: 12.36
CCA: 579 (rating of battery 750 CCA)
Test (CA):
Volts: 12.33
CA: 726 (rating 885)
Battery 2
Voltmeter: 10.81 (before test)
Test (CCA):
Volts: 10.78
CCA: 54
Test (CA):
Volts: 10.72
CA: 72
Question would be would that 2nd battery (low) cause my long first initial start?
OK I am just getting back to this problem. Before checking the high pressure oil pump, I thought I would test my batteries so I borrowed a real fancy load tester with print out. Take a look at these measured numbers and see if you guys think I got a battery problem also: I tested both batteries after it sit all night.
Battery 1
Voltmeter: 12.39 (before test)
Test (CCA):
Volts: 12.36
CCA: 579 (rating of battery 750 CCA)
Test (CA):
Volts: 12.33
CA: 726 (rating 885)
Battery 2
Voltmeter: 10.81 (before test)
Test (CCA):
Volts: 10.78
CCA: 54
Test (CA):
Volts: 10.72
CA: 72
Question would be would that 2nd battery (low) cause my long first initial start?
Thanks guys
That low battery is pulling the good one down and then not allowing starter to spin fast enough
Buy two new batteries or the old good one will pull down the new one.
I've also seen first hand the shortcomings of the parts store's digital "estimator." They call it a battery tester, but with the tiny little wires, it CANNOT do a full load test.
It failed to detect a battery that wouldn't hold up under load when I was chasing a bad starter that had more draw than it should have.
Load tester found it as bad, their thing...wrong. Just a caution there for those who go to parts stores to get their batteries tested