What about PATS ?
How is that being handled ?

Kyle

 

Bump..
Is this dead ?

Kyle

 

Not dead, hopefully anyway

Rather still in progress. I will report back when I get my truck back from my mechanic. The way I am handling PATS, is to unplug it and see how it works. GearHead was confident unplugging PATS would be the most tried and true way to know their tuning would work without issue.

 

Following to see how this comes out.

 

If I were a betting man, my supposition would be the semantics involved, and how each person is defining "detune" much the same way Pocket illustrated in his post above.

Stewart

 

Following along A little confused as to what PMR stands for?

 

Powdered Metal Rods, as opposed the the (stronger) forged rods in earlier blocks.

 

Ah thank you! I'd heard of this just never under that description

 

Update:

I have the truck back in my possession, but need your help!

Here are the facts:

1. Truck runs good, but with the PATS plugged in, and chip in, KOER (Key On Engine Running) the Anti Theft light blinks rapidly at start up for a solid 60 seconds, than goes away.

Problem; fuel pressure dips down to 45 PSI at WOT on the Street Furry tune from GearHead. At Idle and cruising speed, fuel pressure is at 63 PSI.

3. When unplugged, and tune installed, it would act erratically, and die after 15 minutes of running. No Bueno!

2. I trust Clay at RiffRaff, like many on here do. His opinion is that having the PATS plugged in, with running the Hydra chip, and tuning from GH, will not hurt anything. I will see if this continues to deliver me a reliable turn key get in and go ride. Clay does not think the low dip down to 45 PSI will hurt anything, but suggested to add an inline electric lift pump.

Clay did not think I should go to a FASS system, or Air Dog, just for the momentary WOT dip. He thought I could solve my problem for around $100. I have a lot of respect for Clay for this, as he could have sold me on a $$$$ fuel system.

To catch others up, I am running P.I.S 175/80 injectors, Hydra GearHead Tunes, Adrenaline HPOP, GT38R, 6637, FRx, RR Banjo Bolts, RR Check Valve Delete, RR AIH delete, and ISSPRO EV2 0-100 Fuel Pressure gauge.

3. This is where I need your help. There are a ton of opinions of what inline lift pumps people have used in the past, as in 10 years ago. What are people, if any, using today in 2016?

 

I'm running a similar hardware setup with no dip in WOT FP. I've done the hutch/harpoon mod, am using the Racor strainer, a new bosch fuel pump and CNC fabrication quad fuel feed kit and stock fuel pressure spring. I run 60psi KOEO and 65 PSI KOER. I run the fuel pressure sensor after the fuel filter with the quad feed kit (easy to do with it) and am able to see when filters start to get dirty and just replace them. It can be sooner than you think especially when traveling interstate like I have for camping and getting fuel from all sorts of shady places.

 

Are you saying that the PATS (Passive Anti-Theft System) is causing your fuel pressure issues?

The truck must have the chip in order to run correctly because of the new injectors right?

I don't any experience with the PATS, but it sounds like it is being a pain in the ***.

 

Pats has absolutely nothing to do with fuel delivery (in terms of what is being discussed), all pats does is allow the truck to start if the correct transponder in near it

 

I guess I was misreading the post above, I will step back out of this conversation, read and continue to learn.

 

Yes, PATS is a pain, and the chip does need to be installed for the truck to run correctly. However, like someone already pointed out, does not have anything to do with fuel pressure.

 

Still new around here but I think you need to have the chip reburned and do the hutch mod to help your tank and save your injectors.