Alternator and bracket from hell....
Here comes the fun part. Upon putting it all back together, I get to tightening the hold down bolt at the top of the alternator and SNAP! That butthole of an alternator decided to have the whole casing shatter. So I've got alternator casing everywhere now. I would like to just drop the whole bracket, do a smog delete while I am at it, get a new alternator and bracket, and put it all on. My issue is finding the darn bracket. Anyone know where to get one? I already checked eBay and I don't see any. Maybe someone knows someone who would have this laying around perhaps? And then what would be the best course of action for a new pivot bolt since my current one is frozen up into the bracket. I can't exactly take it off and have Fastenal make one in this scenario.
Edit: you might give car-part.com a look see..
Chevy for example has a precision bore sleeve that is dropped into a partial casting in their version.
Cut bolt out carefully with Dremel tool.
Look on internet for complete engines for sale with all the attachments.
Use a rat-tail file or similar to get the slight burr out of your replacement.
Lower picture: The mounting bracket (E7TZ-10A313-C - Obsolete) is the same 1988/89 E250/350; 1988/97 F250/350 & F(Super Duty) & F53 Stripped Chassis / 1990/97 E350.
There are two different 10145 adjustment brackets. Same applications as above.
E7TZ-10145-A .. Use with 60/75 & 95 amp alternators / Obsolete ~ 2 available NOS
E7TZ-10145-B .. Use with 100 & 135 amp alternators / Obsolete
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It's the alternators that have the casting seam in the pivot bolt's bore.
For example the Chevy's used 'outside ears' on the alternator's, then used the steel, bored, removable sleeve, where Ford cast the sleeve into the alternator itself.
If the entire bracket and alternator are removed together, and the fragile aluminum end ears on the bracket are firmly supported against flex, the bolt can be pounded out.
My earlier post was inaccurate, sorry.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts

As for the summit racing one, that bracket is worth the price when build the motor into a powerhouse. Its too shiny and nice to stick on my daily rode hard truck. Lol. I do plan on using that setup though for when I rebuild the motor in a few months.
On super bright side....I went junkyarding to my 11 yards, got to the third yard and found a 7.3 powerstroke, 96 year. I was like....SWEET! Injectors for my Powerstroke! Since she sits with two bad ones in my driveway. I step one vehicle over and wam! 96 E350 with a 460 in it! Bracket and alternator still in it. So I snatched that **** all in one piece. I plan on soaking it over night in some penetrating oil and removing the alternator to have it tested. If its good(looks good) I will slap it on, if not I'll buy another. Also when I pulled the valve covers on the Powerstroke, the injectors have already been replaced with rebuilt ones and look like they've barely seen any miles! The o-rings look fantastic. I scored a damn good price too at $6 a piece. Hahaha! So tomorrow I will get the bracket replaced and the alternator put on. Woowoo! If anyone needs some 460 parts give me a holler. There are a dozen here thought the 3 yards I went to with good parts on em.
460's are hard to find at yards as it is.
The pivot bolt would not even budge. Used a 1/2in. breaker bar, bolt had plenty of penetrating oil.
Got the bolt to move somewhat with a 3/4in.x36in. breaker bar with a 1/2x3/4 adapter and a 1/2in. drive black socket.
Started to move the alternator back-and-forth as much as possible in the arc allowed.
Was finally able to thread the bolt out of it's mount, fighting it every single
revolution.
Then the bolt was just stuck, in the hole, no longer threaded, but still at the edge of the threads in back hole.
Took bracket and alternator off together, laid them on floor, and supported the stress points, except...
Using a long punch started to pound the bolt out, alternator facing up, as the bolt moved out of the rear hole the rest of the way, of course the alternator, which is heavy, leaned to the side, and the front ear of the bracket snapped off.
The bolt was still stuck in the alternator hole, because of the casting seam it is galled, not rusted (aluminum doesn't rust, just oxidizes).
Got the bolt out, reamed the hole in the alternator and re-used it.
Luckily I had another bracket.
Started to move the alternator back-and-forth as much as possible in the arc allowed.
Was finally able to thread the bolt out of it's mount, fighting it every single
revolution.
Then the bolt was just stuck, in the hole, no longer threaded, but still at the edge of the threads in back hole.
Took bracket and alternator off together, laid them on floor, and supported the stress points, except...
Using a long punch started to pound the bolt out, alternator facing up, as the bolt moved out of the rear hole the rest of the way, of course the alternator, which is heavy, leaned to the side, and the front ear of the bracket snapped off.
The bolt was still stuck in the alternator hole, because of the casting seam it is galled, not rusted (aluminum doesn't rust, just oxidizes).
Got the bolt out, reamed the hole in the alternator and re-used it.
Luckily I had another bracket.
That 3/4in. drive breaker bar is extra long. Would want the bracket mounted on the engine to use it. Work it back and forth. Maybe you can get it.
As you can see here, my bent alternator bolt and my snapped off smog pump bolt.
Replacement bracket in place, smog deleted, and awaiting a new alternator and belt.
So now hopefully I can get this beast running for a couple more months after this. Ridiculous all this.








So I have to rely on being able to purchase one another way.



