Any AC experts?
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2014
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From: Houston, Texas
several reasons, but mostly because I told them to just get it to a driveable condition and didn't pay them enough to do a perfect job. Plus not even sure it's their mistake. I bought it wrecked and have been slowly fixing it. Now it runs and drives great, just some cosmetic things and this AC problem.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2014
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From: Houston, Texas
OK, I checked the vacuum lines under the hood - a T-connecter near the degas bottle and another line on the passenger side above the fan housing. Both suck strong.
Drove this morning and with the weather cooled down from the rain I could tell that the compressor is turning off sometimes while idling, at a stop/going slow, and for a minute or so after beginning to move forward again.
Got cooler too in the rain, but I imagine that's just an effect of the cooler outside air.
didn't get to check the freon pressure, it was pouring down, but from watching it last night after purging some of the freon, it stayed in the normal zone.
what can make the compressor kick off like that? I'm guessing that it's getting hot, or pressure is building up. Is it the radiator fan not turning on? It seems to be working fine otherwise. The truck only has 44k miles and I'm sure the AC worked just fine before the front end wreck, and the wreck doesn't seem to have touched any AC components.
Drove this morning and with the weather cooled down from the rain I could tell that the compressor is turning off sometimes while idling, at a stop/going slow, and for a minute or so after beginning to move forward again.
Got cooler too in the rain, but I imagine that's just an effect of the cooler outside air.
didn't get to check the freon pressure, it was pouring down, but from watching it last night after purging some of the freon, it stayed in the normal zone.
what can make the compressor kick off like that? I'm guessing that it's getting hot, or pressure is building up. Is it the radiator fan not turning on? It seems to be working fine otherwise. The truck only has 44k miles and I'm sure the AC worked just fine before the front end wreck, and the wreck doesn't seem to have touched any AC components.
Senior User
Joined: May 2016
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From: Western NY
Check for vacuum on the inside, look for the small black line coning in lower pass side by side kick panel. that line goes up about a foot to a connector with a white hose next to it. The black hose twards the firewall should have vac when running, if not its leaking by the canister or check valve. You need a real set of gauges to check pressure. It sounds like the compressor it cycling due to low Freon. You can get a cheap set of gauges at harbor freight about 50 bucks.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2014
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From: Houston, Texas
Check for vacuum on the inside, look for the small black line coning in lower pass side by side kick panel. that line goes up about a foot to a connector with a white hose next to it. The black hose twards the firewall should have vac when running, if not its leaking by the canister or check valve. You need a real set of gauges to check pressure. It sounds like the compressor it cycling due to low Freon. You can get a cheap set of gauges at harbor freight about 50 bucks.
Are those gauges not accurate? I didn't check it today, but I will tomorrow morning. And, I'll look for that other vacuum hose. If it's lost suction, can I hack into that T connection under the hood rather than cut a hole in the wheel well or tear out a bunch of junk to get to the canister?
Really, I just keep thinking that's the problem since it's right where the wreck was.
Senior User
Joined: May 2016
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From: Western NY
Yes can gauges are playschool, you need to see pressures while running. And yes you can hack the vac line- the black hose goes through the firewall with its own grommet. I used mechanics wire to feed up through the hole and pull a new piece of hose down inside then had to modify the 2 connections to the hoses and done.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Bedford, Va
He's correct about the cycling. Only way to charge and know that you're right is to "charge by weight". Too many variables with humidity, ambient temp, etc. You need to have a shop recover any charge, vacuum down system and charge by weight. A dual evap system will require 60oz+.
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Wes032
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Aug 7, 2013 03:43 PM
