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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Power window Kits?

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Old Dec 2, 2016 | 07:15 PM
  #16  
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The horizontal bar is bolted to the door using long enough bolts and spacers( I used tubing) to line up with the window track and it supports the motor and the bottom of the power window track, I've been looking to see if I have any pictures but haven't found any yet...
 
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Old Dec 3, 2016 | 06:12 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by 56panelford
The horizontal bar is bolted to the door using long enough bolts and spacers( I used tubing) to line up with the window track and it supports the motor and the bottom of the power window track, I've been looking to see if I have any pictures but haven't found any yet...
That makes sense. Thanks
 
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Old Dec 4, 2016 | 12:35 PM
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This instruction sheet from Mid Fifty makes it pretty clear.

Instructions - Mid Fifty F-100 Parts

I can't tell from the pictures if the the tubing is 1" or 3/4"
 
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Old Dec 4, 2016 | 07:52 PM
  #19  
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I am installing this kit. So far it's going okay, I will get a better install documented on the build thread that I have. Still need to catch up to where I am now, but it will be there.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2016 | 08:41 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by smallello
This instruction sheet from Mid Fifty makes it pretty clear.

Instructions - Mid Fifty F-100 Parts

I can't tell from the pictures if the the tubing is 1" or 3/4"
I used a piece of scrap angle from a Yamaha out board motor crate for mine, doesn't really matter as long as it gets the job done...
 
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Old Dec 15, 2016 | 01:11 AM
  #21  
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I'm starting my install and have questions. I have 2 different instructions and one says put the motor on the hinge side the other says put it on the latch side. I like it better on the hinge side, does it make a difference?

I followed the dimensions for the locating the unit in the door. It centers it in the panel opening/door. It seems to be slightly off center. Should the vertical bar be perfectly in the center glass? (I am keeping the vent windows)
 
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Old Dec 15, 2016 | 10:31 AM
  #22  
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One piece windows

Finished the instl. of my Nu-relics one piece electric windows in my 52.
Motor unit was a bolt in deal in the original holes.
Forming the felts was a bitch until I carried them down with one window to an old time glass company which did them in about 45 minutes!
I trashed several trying myself but I was keeping my hands too close trying to bend them. This guy worked about a foot or more apart with his hands and wider.
They went in like a dream, I cut them off to the correct lengths and the window roll up and down like a dream.
TractormanBill
 
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Old Dec 16, 2016 | 01:04 PM
  #23  
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I got the driver side done. It works great. The hardest part was determining the correct spacers to use. Once I got that the unit fit in the door perfectly. Now the other side should be a lot quicker. I need new glass so I will get that before I take it apart so I can do it all at once.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2016 | 02:46 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by smallello
I got the driver side done. It works great. The hardest part was determining the correct spacers to use. Once I got that the unit fit in the door perfectly. Now the other side should be a lot quicker. I need new glass so I will get that before I take it apart so I can do it all at once.
Could you post a picture on how you got power into the door?
 
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Old Dec 16, 2016 | 03:46 PM
  #25  
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Here is the way I got the wiring into the door on my 52.
I've got the info on how and where I drilled, etc
TractormanBill
 
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Old Dec 16, 2016 | 07:05 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by gerrymoe
Could you post a picture on how you got power into the door?
I like using these looms because they are less likely to bind because of the pivots and slide much easier
https://www.electric-life.com/produc...ip-on-collars/
 
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Old Dec 16, 2016 | 11:31 PM
  #27  
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I used these looms for the wires.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I originally drilled the holes in the center of the door jamb but the bend was too tight. I used the hole for the dome light switch which is very close to the inner edge of the jamb and it worked much better.

Mine is a 56 and the door angle is different than the 52 like tractormanbill showed
 
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Old Dec 17, 2016 | 01:33 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by tractormanbill
Here is the way I got the wiring into the door on my 52.
I've got the info on how and where I drilled, etc
TractormanBill
Tractormanbill, Can you PM or email me that information... How was the drilling?
 
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Old Dec 17, 2016 | 10:39 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by 56panelford
I like using these looms because they are less likely to bind because of the pivots and slide much easier
https://www.electric-life.com/produc...ip-on-collars/
Thanx John

I had the ones Smallello used and I did not like the crimp in the tubing when door was wide open. I like the design of the electric life product you used so I ordered them.
I actually looked into a hyme joint to see if I could make the ones I have work but it would have been totally to big.
On a side note if anyone on here needs a power window kit, bought from Mid-Fifties with install kit, never been used. I bought the Nu-Relics. It is yours for the cost of shipping.
Page 96 Mid-Fifties 2015 catalog-part #1740-ex

MERRY x-MAS to all
 
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Old Dec 17, 2016 | 10:59 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by gerrymoe
Thanx John


On a side note if anyone on here needs a power window kit, bought from Mid-Fifties with install kit, never been used. I bought the Nu-Relics. It is yours for the cost of shipping.
Page 96 Mid-Fifties 2015 catalog-part #1740-ex

MERRY x-MAS to all
Wow! That's a very generous offer! Another great FTE'r.
 
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