1981 F100 4 on the floor help
#1
1981 F100 4 on the floor help
Hey guys I'm new here, but I recently purchased a 1981 F100 with a 300 inline 6 and a 4 on the floor shifter. She don't look pretty but that can be changed in time. When I went to look at her she drove fine, started right up and was roaring. The guy let me drive her around the block, but when I took my foot off the clutch in 1st(while doig around 10mph) she started to stall. He told me that older trucks you have to ride the clutch a little or they stall. This was news to me so when he drove it with myself as the passenger I watched very carefully. He rode the clutch, he pressed the clutch in maybe 1/4" and she sounded beautiful tearing down the street in 3rd gear. When I picked up my new truck I was able to drive it without riding the clutch no problem. Every now and then dueing the drive back(it was a little more than an hour drive) I could smell the clutch burning even though I wasn't riding it. It also required a lot of gas to start off. I didn't think of it as the clutch slipping because it moved right away during the test drive so I assumed the carb just needed to be worked in because it has a new carb new fuel pump and a new battery. Distributor looks fairly new as well. Now she is sitting in my driveway not beig able to show her true potential. I checked the clutch and the cable is pretty tight even though I was in N and seemed like it has been through hell. If anyone can give me any tips I'd really appreciate it. I'l post pics of whatever you guys need to help me just ask. Thanks again.
#2
First welcome to the forum you will get the help you need.
Now I read a few different things in your post that confuse me.
First and big 1 is "cable" for the clutch? This truck and both of my 81 F100's use linkage. A BIG issue with our trucks is the linkage uses plastic bushings at the pivots. The bushing break and fall out and the linkage pivots get played out so bushings will not fit back in with out welding to get them back in shape. Yes both on mine were that way.
Also the cross bar between frame & motor has plastic bushing and the same happens with it.
You also said "I could smell the clutch burning even though I wasn't riding it. It also required a lot of gas to start off.' Was the clutch slipping? RPM higher than the speed you were going? If not brakes make the same smell and you did say it "required a lot of gas to start off".
Because the truck is new to you please pull all the wheels and check the brakes. Replace anything not right and may want to just replace everything anyway so you know they are good. Also replace the rubber hoses as they can go bad on the inside and hold PSI keeping the brakes on. Bad master can also do the same thing.
They would be the 2 places to start looking first.
Dave ----
Now I read a few different things in your post that confuse me.
First and big 1 is "cable" for the clutch? This truck and both of my 81 F100's use linkage. A BIG issue with our trucks is the linkage uses plastic bushings at the pivots. The bushing break and fall out and the linkage pivots get played out so bushings will not fit back in with out welding to get them back in shape. Yes both on mine were that way.
Also the cross bar between frame & motor has plastic bushing and the same happens with it.
You also said "I could smell the clutch burning even though I wasn't riding it. It also required a lot of gas to start off.' Was the clutch slipping? RPM higher than the speed you were going? If not brakes make the same smell and you did say it "required a lot of gas to start off".
Because the truck is new to you please pull all the wheels and check the brakes. Replace anything not right and may want to just replace everything anyway so you know they are good. Also replace the rubber hoses as they can go bad on the inside and hold PSI keeping the brakes on. Bad master can also do the same thing.
They would be the 2 places to start looking first.
Dave ----
#3
Upper picture: The brake pedal (2455) rides on the shaft of the clutch pedal (7519).
There are (4) 2471 nylon bushings and (1) 7526 nylon bushing for the clutch release rod (7521).
Lower picture: There is (1) 7526 nylon bushing for the clutch release rod (7521). (1) 7543 and (1) 7517 nylon bushings that the equalizer bar (7528) rides on.
There are (4) 2471 nylon bushings and (1) 7526 nylon bushing for the clutch release rod (7521).
Lower picture: There is (1) 7526 nylon bushing for the clutch release rod (7521). (1) 7543 and (1) 7517 nylon bushings that the equalizer bar (7528) rides on.
#4
First welcome to the forum you will get the help you need.
Now I read a few different things in your post that confuse me.
First and big 1 is "cable" for the clutch? This truck and both of my 81 F100's use linkage. A BIG issue with our trucks is the linkage uses plastic bushings at the pivots. The bushing break and fall out and the linkage pivots get played out so bushings will not fit back in with out welding to get them back in shape. Yes both on mine were that way.
Also the cross bar between frame & motor has plastic bushing and the same happens with it.
You also said "I could smell the clutch burning even though I wasn't riding it. It also required a lot of gas to start off.' Was the clutch slipping? RPM higher than the speed you were going? If not brakes make the same smell and you did say it "required a lot of gas to start off".
Because the truck is new to you please pull all the wheels and check the brakes. Replace anything not right and may want to just replace everything anyway so you know they are good. Also replace the rubber hoses as they can go bad on the inside and hold PSI keeping the brakes on. Bad master can also do the same thing.
They would be the 2 places to start looking first.
Dave ----
Now I read a few different things in your post that confuse me.
First and big 1 is "cable" for the clutch? This truck and both of my 81 F100's use linkage. A BIG issue with our trucks is the linkage uses plastic bushings at the pivots. The bushing break and fall out and the linkage pivots get played out so bushings will not fit back in with out welding to get them back in shape. Yes both on mine were that way.
Also the cross bar between frame & motor has plastic bushing and the same happens with it.
You also said "I could smell the clutch burning even though I wasn't riding it. It also required a lot of gas to start off.' Was the clutch slipping? RPM higher than the speed you were going? If not brakes make the same smell and you did say it "required a lot of gas to start off".
Because the truck is new to you please pull all the wheels and check the brakes. Replace anything not right and may want to just replace everything anyway so you know they are good. Also replace the rubber hoses as they can go bad on the inside and hold PSI keeping the brakes on. Bad master can also do the same thing.
They would be the 2 places to start looking first.
Dave ----
#5
No 1980/82 F100/350 or Bronco has a hydraulic clutch.
Hydraulic clutch introduced in 1983 F250/350 with 6.9L diesel & 7.5L (460).
Hydraulic clutch introduced in 1984 F150/350 & Bronco 300/302/351W
btw: In post #3, I posted two pics of the clutch linkage. Do you see a cable? No you don't and no one else does either, because there is no such thing!
#6
#7
Truck should be high enough to get under it to check what you have that works the clutch.
If all stock 81, sticking out the side of the bell housing is the clutch fork. There should bean adjusting rod up to the cross bar that has bushings at motor& frame sides.
There should be a rod from the cross bar up thru the fire wall to the pedal assy.
OR
Start at the pedal assy move the clutch pedal and see what all moves. Trace it all the way to the clutch checking for any play at the pivots.
If the clutch has no free play that could be why it slips. Try and add free play and if it will not time for new clutch, presser plate, throw out bearing & pilot.
Dave ----
If all stock 81, sticking out the side of the bell housing is the clutch fork. There should bean adjusting rod up to the cross bar that has bushings at motor& frame sides.
There should be a rod from the cross bar up thru the fire wall to the pedal assy.
OR
Start at the pedal assy move the clutch pedal and see what all moves. Trace it all the way to the clutch checking for any play at the pivots.
If the clutch has no free play that could be why it slips. Try and add free play and if it will not time for new clutch, presser plate, throw out bearing & pilot.
Dave ----
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#8
Thanks for all the replies guys. Im gonna check again tomorrow morning after I take my buddy to pick up his 240sx. Yes my f100 is BONE stock. Il check and see if I can find the adjuster. Thanks again il post some pics and let ya know if I can adjust it because when I press in the clutch I move up in the seat. Its pretty stiff(pause).
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