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If an open plenum or the above gasket wouldn't, then I would think that just cutting it definitely wouldn't.
The open plenum would mean that there's nothing against the PV port and it's open to a big open space.
The two hole gasket would effectively do the same as cutting it, and would only have a gasket between the primaries and secondaries, but not between the venturis on each side (where the PV port is).
Ok, I've looked at it a bit closer, and I agree - either the open-plenum or the two-hole gasket should prove it. But, if that does prove it then I'd cut a gasket.
Well, I haven't done anything with the gasket but I took a closer look at the power valve port and it looks like it would be really difficult for it to get blocked by a gasket.
The slot it's in is plenty deep. Not only that, but the screw head rises above the hole, so for anything to obstruct it would take something pretty serious.
I'll still look into it because I'm pretty desperate and frustrated, but wanted to throw that out there.
I've wondered that about the vacuum port. Maybe they just screwed up somewhere. The 450cfm size only came out last year.
I have thought about wishing I had another vehicle to try it on, but we sold my wife's Bronco almost a year ago, so the '81 is it. The open style intake went with it.
Does that port have a check ball in it? I'll bet it does since that was a serious omission in the original Holley design. If it does have that check ball, might it be sticking? Does it seem loose in the carb?
Yes it does have the checkball. I've thought about that before too, with it getting stuck. I have no idea what I'd do about it though. Sprayed cleaner through it, and even hooked a vacuum pump up to one side to see if it was getting vacuum on the other, and it does.
However, a vacuum pump puts quite a bit of a different source of vacuum on it than high velocity air going through the venturis.
Any chance of running a really small copper wire in to hold the ball off its seat? Maybe one strand of a finely-stranded wire. Gently push it in from the power valve side and, hopefully, past the ball and out the other end. You might have to turn the carb on its side to get the ball to move and let the wire pass.
If you can get it through, put a hook in the end so it won't go back down. But, if it does it won't hurt anything.
Any chance of running a really small copper wire in to hold the ball off its seat? Maybe one strand of a finely-stranded wire. Gently push it in from the power valve side and, hopefully, past the ball and out the other end. You might have to turn the carb on its side to get the ball to move and let the wire pass.
If you can get it through, put a hook in the end so it won't go back down. But, if it does it won't hurt anything.
Definitely something I can try. I have some very thin wire I purchased to restrict air bleeds and the like. I'll give it a shot.
AB, I'm really sorry you're having that issue. I hope you resolve it quickly.
I'm thinking that both carbs had been taken apart and reassembled with aftermarket parts, right? Is it possible that maybe you used the wrong gasket, flipped backward, as one of the other members suggested?
It does sound as though a vacuum passage or ck ball is blocked or missing. It's too bad you didn't run the oem one for a while and test for that prob.
I'm thinking, after using 4x 600 cfm carbs, a 750 and 800 cfm QJ, and now a 1848, 465 cfm, that under 500 cfm is too small for a modded 300. I think with your new engine you'll find the same.
Is it possible that maybe you used the wrong gasket, flipped backward, as one of the other members suggested?
That brings back some painful memories of my least-favorite carb of all time - a brand new 3310 Holley on my brand new 1969 Super Bee. What a piece of junk that carb was. Warped metering blocks, warped body, etc. And it was my first Holley, which might explain my aversion to them.
Anyway, I had to rebuild it many times and normally used Holley kits. But once I used a Standard Motor Products kit and suddenly the accelerator pump didn't work. Turns out the SMP gasket only had one hole for the pump's discharge, meaning that if you flipped it over the pump was blocked off. That was in March of 1975 and I still remember it.
AB, I'm really sorry you're having that issue. I hope you resolve it quickly.
I'm thinking that both carbs had been taken apart and reassembled with aftermarket parts, right? Is it possible that maybe you used the wrong gasket, flipped backward, as one of the other members suggested?
It does sound as though a vacuum passage or ck ball is blocked or missing. It's too bad you didn't run the oem one for a while and test for that prob.
Nothing really aftermarket on them aside form a jet change or two for elevation. When I got the first one, it was so stuck together that I broke the ported vacuum nipple off of it trying to get it apart. I had one of their billet metering blocks that I threw on while I sent the original metering block back to be replaced.
I'd wondered about the gasket, so when I got the second one, I took pictures as I took it apart to be sure everything was as it was supposed to be, and only took it apart to install it. It's fully OEM.
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