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just picked up a 1970 f250 2wd,390,4spd ps pb got on the highway get it up to 50 and it feels like the front tires are wobbling,very hard to keep it on the road,cant or not brave enough to get it any faster,??? any help on this thanks
Does the steering wheel have play in it. Your best bet is to go to a local tire shop if you know of one that can work on the older trucks and not just swap tires.
I had a wheel lose the wheel weight and become unbalanced. Same thing would happen. In town, no problem, go over 45 and it was scary. That wheel was on the rear too.
before I posted,i check tires for wear they look good,no bubbles,tread looks even,it has new shocks,,will check the steering joint next and take it over and have the tires balanced,might be the king pins,all I no it took everthing I had to keep it in one lane,
thanks all,i checked to see if tie rod ends/king pins/tire wear,rag joint ,didn't feel to bad,it shakes bad like when you run a bias tire with radial tires,,will have tires balanced tomorrow,
Well, just keep in mind most tire shops never look at a tire as it's spinning on the balancer, just close the lid, spin it up and slam on the weights. You can balance a square tire. Just sayin...
If the tires are more than 6 years old, it's time to replace them, regardless of their tread depth.
The tires should have a manufacture date code on them. --a partial manufacturer/date code may be on one side of the tire while the complete number can be located on the other side. The code will follow after the letters "DOT" on the sidewall near the bead.
If the tires are more than 6 years old, it's time to replace them, regardless of their tread depth.
The tires should have a manufacture date code on them. --a partial manufacturer/date code may be on one side of the tire while the complete number can be located on the other side. The code will follow after the letters "DOT" on the sidewall near the bead.
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I disagree with the recommendation above as a strict rule. It depends on how/where the vehicle is stored and how often it is/was driven.
... it's like the widespread notion, more like misinformation, that engine oil must be changed every three months or 3,000 miles - whichever comes first. That is dead wrong. Vehicles are built at much closer tolerances, run cleaner and more efficiently due to computerization, and lubricant formulations are chemically much more consistent.
I disagree with the recommendation above as a strict rule. It depends on how/where the vehicle is stored and how often it is/was driven.
... it's like the widespread notion, more like misinformation, that engine oil must be changed every three months or 3,000 miles - whichever comes first. That is dead wrong. Vehicles are built at much closer tolerances, run cleaner and more efficiently due to computerization, and lubricant formulations are chemically much more consistent.
Changing engine oil every 3,000 miles is an oil company/quick lube ploy to sell oil twice as often as the oil actually needs to be changed. Your owners manual (particularly on new vehicles) will most likely say something very different from this figure.
Many people like to put products on their tires to make them nice and shiny. The down side is most of these products are petroleum based. Petroleum products applied to your tires dries them out --speeding up the process of dry rotting the rubber as evidenced by tiny cracks appearing all over the sidewalls of the tires.