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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Big Problem? Coolant

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Old Aug 8, 2016 | 08:10 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Rusty_S
that's the only way you can fix it cause if you try to glob RTV on it, the coolant once it gets under pressure will blow the RTV out. Only proper way to fix it is to pull the water pump, pull the balancer, pull the timing cover and replace the gasket. Its also adviseable to replace the timing cover while you have it off as they are aluminum and they do strip out. I didn't on mine and one of the bolts on my water pump to timing cover was stripped so I had to use a band aid of coating the threads with RTV before reinserting and lightly threading it to stop leakage.
Im going to act like I didn't hear that and just won't look for leaks. That sounds like a mess.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2016 | 08:11 PM
  #17  
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Hopefully its just the housing that's leaking.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2016 | 08:13 PM
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Well if you don't check it be ready to be putting a engine in the truck cause a slow coolant leak like this will burn your engine up faster than a fast leak.

Large leaks that leave marks catches your attention. Small slow leaks if you do not check your coolant on a monthly if not weekly basis will burn your engine up as youll never realize you are low on coolant.

Mine I add a little coolant/water every two to three months. I don't see any visable leaks on the ground but I still check it monthly just to be safe.

As far as a mess goes, your best bet is to drain the block as best as you can and be ready to do an oil change as well cause coolant will get into your oil pan when you pull the cover off.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2016 | 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Rusty_S
Well if you don't check it be ready to be putting a engine in the truck cause a slow coolant leak like this will burn your engine up faster than a fast leak.

Large leaks that leave marks catches your attention. Small slow leaks if you do not check your coolant on a monthly if not weekly basis will burn your engine up as youll never realize you are low on coolant.

Mine I add a little coolant/water every two to three months. I don't see any visable leaks on the ground but I still check it monthly just to be safe.

As far as a mess goes, your best bet is to drain the block as best as you can and be ready to do an oil change as well cause coolant will get into your oil pan when you pull the cover off.
I was kidding. Ill prepare for the worst and hope for the best. Thanks for your help.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2016 | 08:37 PM
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No problem, thing to remember check it with the engine at full operating temp and check it with the engine off when hot. You want to pressure check this area, it usually doesn't leak without pressure if they are to leak.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2016 | 08:39 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Rusty_S
No problem, thing to remember check it with the engine at full operating temp and check it with the engine off when hot. You want to pressure check this area, it usually doesn't leak without pressure if they are to leak.
Ok thanks will do.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2016 | 10:31 AM
  #22  
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Went to auto store and got gasket and sealant and tried to install. Ended up working on it for an hour till the sealant was dry and gasket ripped. I could not for the life of me get the gasket lined up with the bottom screw hole while keeping the thermostat in the center without moving. The bottom screw was so tight between the water pump it wouldn't allow my open end. How in the world are you supposed to keep everything aligned and get the screws started? I've gotta figure out a new method before wasting another trip to the auto store.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2016 | 01:24 PM
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Box-end wrench?

 
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Old Aug 9, 2016 | 01:27 PM
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Old Aug 9, 2016 | 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by ctubutis
Box-end wrench?

Thats what I was using. After much frustration, busted knuckles, and several gaskets I found that the screw hole had the sealant in it and the screw couldn't go in. I'll check that first next time! I'm just about to try again. Thanks for the video!
 
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Old Aug 9, 2016 | 01:58 PM
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Yeah, some guys like to use all sorts of sealant (oftentimes RTV) that makes its way into those holes upon assembly.

Auto parts store MAY have these, hardware store should... bring a bolt with you and get a tap, this used to "chase the threads" and clean all that crap out of there. Clean the bolts with a wire brush.

They look like this and are specific to the bolt size (why I say to bring a bolt with you):

 
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Old Aug 9, 2016 | 02:32 PM
  #27  
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Guess I'll have to. Been trying again for the past 30 minutes and it just spins in front of the hole. Without the housing is screw straight in, but when I put that housing on it won't go in at all. Boy i'm ready for winter!
 
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Old Aug 9, 2016 | 03:52 PM
  #28  
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Got it!! I think I may get PTSD after that one.

I changed the thermostat in my 00 Tundra in 20 minutes. Can't believe this one was so hard.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2016 | 05:08 PM
  #29  
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IIRC, I placed the thermostat in the housing, POINTED END TOWARDS THE HOSE, and then put a bit of sealer on it, to hold it in place. I also glued the gasket to the housing.


Even with all that, I cracked the original thermostat housing, and ended up getting one from the parts store.


If you can get the lower bolt started, an open end wrench, or a 12 point wrench, is the only way to get it tight.


I don't wish that job on anyone!
 
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Old Aug 9, 2016 | 05:13 PM
  #30  
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One other thing to check. I replaced all the hoses at the same time, with "new" ones from RockAuto. About 8 month's later, I developed a small leak. Couldn't figure it out, it turned out to be the "new" bypass hose was bad, had a small split in it.


Who knows how long it sat on someone's shelf, before RockAuto acquired it, and maybe they had it a while.
 
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