So I bought this truck back in February, the guy who I bought it from had a son, said son had a friend, said sons friend was into truck pulls or tractor pulls whatever you wanna call it. Said friend helped said son to do some mods on the truck I bought. Including the stack, and air intake and some other random stuff. But I did not get to talk to them about the truck, so I have some wires and tubes laying around the engine bay that I honestly have no clue what to do with them or what they are for. I met a guy that owned a 7.3 in the past and helped me with some stuff, but I have some pics for the rest of you!

First up is what I believe my buddy told me was some turbo manifold something or other? It was a while ago. . . anyways, tube is unhooked, is that better or worse than having it connected?



Next I got another red tube disconnected, not sure where its supposed to go to but its by the vacuum system on the passenger side.



Next, I discovered this when taking my HPOP out, but the plate that has the sensor that does something, has a tube that has been cut. I got no idea what it is or where it goes as Im still learning my way around the engine. Is this good or bad? What do I need to do?



And lastly, I believe this is wiring for a smoke switch? The wires match other cut wires going thru the firewall to a switch on the dash, I did try hooking it up, but I think i screwed it up cuz every time I flipped the switch the engine just died, Im thinking that if it was a smoke switch, that it dumped too much fuel in the engine with almost no air cuz I was at idle



Thanks for any insight you can give me.

 

The red vac line normally goes to the nipple on the canister in the pic ( on the turbo) Leave it disconnected. The canister is what open the wastegate to relieve excess boost pressure. However, the red line supplies "extra" help to it, via a computer controlled solenoid. This leads to boost creep, or an undesired , premature opening of the wastegate and loss of boost.
Also, fix that crimped/pinched rubber hose in the pic ( on the valve cover) That is your crankcase breather hose. (CCV), With it pinched like that, you will over pressurize the crankcase, and cause problems.

That looks like it comes from the vacuum motor. You may or may not want to reconnect that. If it goes anywhere EXCEPT to the vacum locking hubs, plug it back in, as it is what operates the various heater/ac duct doors. If it goes to the knuckles, to supply the oem vacum hubs, and you don't have them anymore, or want to remove them for manual ones ( which you should, for reliability), then leave it disconnected.

Ummmm, yeah. That one is important. That sensor is the exhaust back pressure sensor. Replace that crusty old sensor (motorcraft only), and run a new tube to reconnect it. It is supposed to go to a fitting on the front of the passenger side exhaust manifold. I'm not sure exactly what thread/type the fittings are, but you can just bend up some brake line for the tube, or just buy a complete replacement.
DieselOrings: Exhaust Back Pressure Replacement Tube 99.5 - 03 7.3L Diesel

No clue what that is supposed to do. Maybe an old "10k" mod? ( An obsolete, crude, old-school early attempt at home tuning. It "fooled" the ICP sensor into delivering higher pressure.)

Looks like you have some previous owners ***-hat, hack job issues to find and un-do. Good Luck.

 

Oh, ya know what? On second thought, that last pic, of the wires, might be for an ICP/HPOP pressure gauge. See where those wires go to. If they are "extra" feeds coming off the ICP sensor wires, then they may have been used to splice into the OEM sensor, to provide a signal/data to an aftermarket gauge.

Oh, and maybe make your pics a little smaller. Its a big giant wall of pixels, and it makes scrolling/refreshing the thread kinda tedious; especially if somebody is on a mobile device.

 

carguy pretty much nailed it but on this one there is a little more to the story. What I see is the vacuum bottle disconnected and that red hose would be part of the vacuum operated hubs. Have the vacuum operated hubs been replaced with manual hubs? How is the HVAC system working? Stuck on defrost, or do all the vent positions work? Your vacuum pump should connect to that big plastic bottle then off to the HVAC system towards the firewall. If you still have vacuum hubs they cannot be working at this time but if you have been changed over to manual hubs nothing to see here, except a solenoid that you could remove if you wanted to, or go back to vacuum hubs if you like them.

 

In your first pic the ccv or doghouse is backwards thats why your hose is crimped down or so im guessing. Mine the hose faces towards front bumper do know if that matters but might fix it. Just take the 2 phillips head screws out watch your gaskets on bottom and screw it back down.

 

Huh, you're right, it is on backwards. I can't believe I missed that, as mine is also on backwards. Someone must have done a CCV re-route on the o.p's truck at some point. I know that's how mine ended up backwards, although I ended up abandoning the CCV re-route, I left everything on the truck, and left the doghouse on backwards; just re-connected it to the intake.

It can stay on the way it is, just get that hose unkinked. I pre-formed hose elbow will help. Look in the emissions section of the Help! rack at the parts store. If you do remove the doghouse, for any reason, I would have new o-rings on hand. The old one are not likely to seal once removed/reinstalled, then you'll have an oily leak everywhere.

Also, on the turbo wastegate 'red line", I forgot to mention, leave it unhooked, but cap it off ( both the line, and the nipple on the turbo).

 

Cap them off, I shall. What should I use? Is there anything specific for doing this? Or just some duck tape, or superglue?

Im not sure how to shrink the pictures. . . My apologies to mobile users until I figure it out

 

Man, That Kid didn't do you any favors, that's for sure

 

Yeah not really, although I did steal this truck, $3700 is what I paid, I did have another $3500 in a rebuilt tranny, then did the starter and soon to be replacing the HPOP.

 

Yeah, definitely was a CCV-delete job at some point. To the OP, where is that collapsed hose running to? Just vents down underneath the truck somewhere? I wonder if the OEM piece is still in the intake tube for the CCV hookup. It might not be, which would make hooking it back up a more difficult job.


I personally have left the red tube hooked up to my wastegate, but I've also tightened up the rod on the wastegate quite a bit too, so although it's still functioning and controlling the boost as intended, it's just doing it at a better/higher boost level.

 

Ill have to go look tomorrow and see where it goes. What is a CCV delete?

 

I have never unhooked my red line either, especially after reading in the FSM where it says the turbo warranty is void when the red line is intentionally disconnected.

Kind curious how many have theirs unhooked and is there a noticeable gain in performance?

Also is it hard to tighten up the wastegate, can it be done with the turbo installed on the truck? There must be a spec on that in the FSM.

 

A CCV delete is for those who have popped off the intake to look inside the turbo to find an oil coating. People freak out and are under the impression the whole intake system is being drowned in oil, so they vent the Crank Case Ventilation to open air or some form of oil catcher.

The engine is not drowning in oil - the oil is in vapor form and some of it collects along the walls of the intake system like condensation collects on a cold beverage. The CCV delete is akin to building a water catch system for every cold beverage in the house to prevent the uncontrolled escape of water from the glass or can walls. The coaster or can cozy works just fine - as does the vent to the turbo intake.

You will not read about oil-filled intercoolers, except in a catastrophic failure of the turbo - and the CCV delete won't fix that. The oil vapors are a form of fuel to the engine - so no harm there. The oil vapor is actually helpful to keep things lubed up inside the intake system, to protect the surfaces from corrosion as a result of condensation in compressed air. You can see the condensation in my intercooler at about 280K miles, but you don't see a lake of oil:

 

AIS intake and 4" exhaust with stock everything else (including tuning) - 18 PSI max boost, just like stock components. Red line mod on top of that - 22 PSI boost, where the stock tune limits it by defueling. Custom tune and a red-line mod - 30+ PSI boost.

The red line mod is the real deal. My GTP38R turbo can reach 40 PSI, but I set my turbo to 35 PSI (with red line connected) to go easy on the Jurassic valve springs... and I did adjust the WG arm in the truck. The 7-turn mod is what I have read about for the stock turbo.

 

Red line mod is leaving that tube unhooked? Im cornfused. . .