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I just picked up a Dana 70 dual wheel rear end (4.56 gears) and also a Dana 60 single wheel rear end (4.10 gears) and I'm trying to identify what vehicle (and year) these came out of. The problem I'm having is I can't find either of the BOM numbers anywhere on the internet, including the Dana / Spicer Axle General Information Catalog, which has pages and pages of BOM (Bill of Material) numbers. The first number in the 603 series in this catalog (and everywhere else I can find online) is: 603470 and the numbers go up from there. My Dana 70 BOM # is: 603285-4. I was told the Dana 70 was out of a Dodge, but he wasn't 100% for sure. From what I have found I think I've narrowed the years down to the 1970's
Here are all the numbers on the Dana 70 axle tube & flanges. Maybe this will help?
Axle Tube: Date = 7 12 2B2; BOM # = 603285-4
Bottom Passenger Side (Left) Flange = 70
Top Passenger Side (Left) Flange = C34835
Bottom Drivers Side (Right) Flange = US Pat 2018188
Top Drivers Side (Right) Flange = US Pat 1968618
Regarding the Dana 60, it has an ID Tag bolted to the housing instead of it being stamped into the axle tube like it is on the Dana 70 (or maybe it is stamped into the axle tube and I haven't found it yet). The BOM is: 603717-9. I can't find this number anywhere either. In the Dana/Spicer catalog it goes from 603704 to 603725; it jumps right over the number I have.
For the Dana 60, the guy thought it was out of a 74 F250. However the ID Tag shows: 4.10 D6TA GGB 603717-9. It has 4.10 gears and I assume the D6TA code means 1976?????? But if I could find the BOM # listed in a catalog, it would tell me exactly what vehicle it was in.
Can anyone shed some light on this issue or point me in the right direction? Thanks for the help...
I have searched all these sites and can't find the answer. I attempted to send BillaVista an e-mail, but the link provided goes to a blank page. So not sure how to get a hold of him. I guess my only other option is to see if I can find any contact info for Dana/Spicer. Thanks for the info.
Filthy Beast, thank you for that info and providing the link to the catalog. There must be different Dana-Spicer catalogs out there because that's not the catalog I found. So thanks again! Really appreciate it!!!
Ok, I had another question. The guy I bought the rear ends from told me the Dana 70 had a Power Lok limited slip. However, the BOM # states that it's a standard D70 (not a limited slip). But that doesn't mean someone didn't add one.
With that said, since I don't know what a Power Lok limited slip looks like, can someone tell me from the pictures if it has a Power Lok LS or not? What's that thing to the left of the ring gear? Is that a Power Lok LS?
Looks to me like this rear end needs tore down and cleaned out, which I will do sometime in the future before I install it. But in the mean time, I'm researching this rear end and learning about it and I thank everyone for the help.
I'm sure you've done your homework on this too.....A sure fire way to determine if you have a limited slip, tru-trac, etc is to turn one wheel. If the other one turns in the same direction you have a limited slip. If the other wheel turns in the opposite direction you have a peg leg.
In your picture, the topmost numbers look like it's stamped 41- 9...41 divided by 9 = 4. 555556.....4.56 gears.
If you do take it apart make sure you label each berrin cap and spacers, (left, right) and take pictures for your reference. That thing to the left of the ring gear houses the limited slip clutches. Hopefully they're not stuck/frozen together.
I'm sure you've done your homework on this too.....A sure fire way to determine if you have a limited slip, tru-trac, etc is to turn one wheel. If the other one turns in the same direction you have a limited slip. If the other wheel turns in the opposite direction you have a peg leg.
In your picture, the topmost numbers look like it's stamped 41- 9...41 divided by 9 = 4. 555556.....4.56 gears.
If you do take it apart make sure you label each berrin cap and spacers, (left, right) and take pictures for your reference. That thing to the left of the ring gear houses the limited slip clutches. Hopefully they're not stuck/frozen together.
Dana peg leg, 3.73 gears (41-11).
Thank you for that info. I didn't realize what the numbers on the ring gear meant and you just taught me how to tell what ring gear a rear end has. That's pretty awesome!!! I guess we're never too old to learn something new...LOL
Question....the internals of this rear end are pretty cruddy from sitting for a long time (as you can see). Can I take off the two caps and lift that ring gear and LS out of there and put is in a parts washer as one unit without taking it apart and clean it up or will doing that not be a good idea? I was wanting to clean it all up and put it back together but I'm not sure if getting solvent inside the LS would damage anything.
Next spring when I'm able to install this rear end, I'm thinking of having a new clutch pack installed just for piece of mind and throw it back together and run it. But in the mean time I'd like to clean it up and in the process learn something new by taking this out. I've only messed with Ford 8" and 9" third members, where they are removable. Never messed with this type of rear end/ring gear setup. Not sure what all's involved in tearing this thing apart or if I can clean it up without damaging something (clutch packs, etc). Thanks for the advice....
Thank you for that info. I didn't realize what the numbers on the ring gear meant and you just taught me how to tell what ring gear a rear end has.
You're welcome. I fergot to mention something about the ring/pinion gear - the numbers on yours - 41- 9 refers to 41 ring gear teeth and 9 pinion teeth. They come as a set with numbers on the teeth side top of the pinion shaft and matching numbers on the ring gear just to the right of the gear ratio numbers. The one in my picture (you can't see them) are 495. You'll see 'em when you pull it apart.
Originally Posted by 78 Ford F150 460
Question....the internals of this rear end are pretty cruddy from sitting for a long time (as you can see). Can I take off the two caps and lift that ring gear and LS out of there and put is in a parts washer as one unit.
Yes, you can....but it would be a better idea to pull the clutch packs out first (after you pull the carrier - which can be tricky), look at 'em for wear/rust etc.
You have a "Full Floater" D60, D70 as opposed to a "Semi - Floater" as seen on the Ford 9 inch. This means the weight of the vehicle and load torque is not supported/transferred by axle berrins and the axle as is the case on the 9 inch. The full floater's vehicle weight is supported by the hub and wheel berrins and the torque load is transferred only to the axles.
You can also take the axle out without taking off the tires. Just pull out the 8 bolts on the axle shaft (see below), loosening four bolts first in an "X" pattern, then the remaining bolts in a "star" pattern, as you would with the tires. Just be careful when you pull the axle - there's a metal gasket between the axle and hub which could be re-usable if in not too bad a shape. Then you can yank the carrier....ha ha!
Again, be SURE to bag and tag the berrin caps, spacers, clutch packs, nuts/bolts, etc. After cleaning/inspecting/drying every thing, spray it all down with WD-40 and wrap it all separately in shrink wrap, if you can. Then it'll be all nice and clean for your rebuild.
Yes you can pull caps. be sure to mark them as to how they go on. if one gets turned around it is not good. Dana usually marks them with a letter. I think all dana 70's have two piece carrier. If yours is a LS it will have clutches under side axle gears. Cant't see yours good enough to tell. It looks to be an open case, but need better view to tell for sure. If it is LS and you put clutches in it, be sure to do research, the way you stack the clutchs give you different holding power on dana 70's.
Yes you can pull caps. be sure to mark them as to how they go on. if one gets turned around it is not good. Dana usually marks them with a letter. I think all dana 70's have two piece carrier. If yours is a LS it will have clutches under side axle gears. Cant't see yours good enough to tell. It looks to be an open case, but need better view to tell for sure. If it is LS and you put clutches in it, be sure to do research, the way you stack the clutchs give you different holding power on dana 70's.
You mentioned this looks to be an "open case" meaning NOT a limited slip? Interesting you said that because the BOM # shows it to be an open case but the guy I bought it from opened it up and said it has a "power lok limited slip", which I assume he was talking about the rusty thing to the left of the ring gear. So am I correct to assume that even an open case (one wheel tire fryer; non-limited slip) will still have that rusty thing next to the ring gear? How can I tell if it's a LS or not? Do I have to remove the carrier from the case and look for ???..... clutch packs inside the rusty thing????
NumberDummy....thanks for that diagram. It looks pretty straight forward to disassemble, but I'm sure there's a certain way the parts go back together with certain torque specs. Maybe I'll just look on YouTube for a video that explains how to disassemble and reassemble. I'd like to be able to remove this and put new clutch packs in myself without the cost of a machine shop to do it for me. I'm pretty mechanically inclined so this shouldn't be too hard for me to learn (I do all my own mechanic work), I've just never torn apart a rear end before other than to remove axles and the 9" third member, so I'm learning about rear ends thanks to all of you guys and your advice.
FilthyBeast....Thanks for that info. Yeah, I assumed the 41-9 number was the ring & pinion tooth count; at least that's what made sense in my head. Thanks for confirming that.
You mentioned pulling the carrier can be "Tricky". What is tricky about it? Also, someone mentioned "shims"....once I remove the caps and lift the carrier assembly out, are there going to be any loose parts that will fall out of it's place that I need to make sure I get back in the correct spot (shims, bearings, etc...)???? Is there a certain technique I need to know to remove the carrier assembly?
Another question....I can physically pick up a 9" by myself and carry it; however, after helping the guy unload this Dana 70 out of his truck, I found out that if I even thought of trying to pick it up by myself, I'd give myself a hernia, kill my back and be at the chiropractor and physical therapy for the rest of my life and still never be able to pick it up....LOL.
The point I'm getting at is the Dana 70 is A LOT heavier than a 9". It's also a lot heaver than the Dana 60. Because it's heavier, that means a lot more unsprung weight for the motor to move. Given the huge weight increase over the Dana 60 and the 9", will I notice a difference in mpg or even having to give it more throttle just to do the same speed? I'm running a 460, so the mileage sucks anyway, so every ounce of mpg I can get makes a differnce.....LOL
Not sure if that made sense....I know the Dana 70 is a lot stronger, but would I be better off using the Dana 60 over the Dana 70 because it's lighter and has less unsprung weight? Or will it not be that big of a deal and not make much difference?
For the record, I'll be swapping my 33" tires for 37" tires next year, so that means additional unsprung weight on top of the increased weight of whichever axle I choose to use. I'm also planning on going to 5.13 gears when I swap the tires.
I assume before you can answer my questions, you probably need to know what I plan on doing with the truck. Basically I built this truck to tow my camp trailer, which weighs 8700 lbs. Someday I might get a different trailer and it might be a little heavier; maybe 10,000 to 11,000 lbs. But who knows. I'd just like to make sure I use the correct rear end that will handle that much weight. If you think the Dana 60 would handle the weight and is lighter than the Dana 70, then maybe I should use it instead of the Dana 70 because of the unsprung weight issue. Just not sure which one to go with, which is where you guys come in. What'cha think?
LS or not: Turn one wheel/drum/axle and watch the other...if they both turn in the same direction you have an LS. If the other wheel/drum/axle turns in the opposite direction you have a peg leg. See post #8.
Carrier removal: The "tricky" part is getting it out 'cause its crammed in there. Some come out easy, some not. A spreader is generally used on the carrier housing to to spread it apart a bit for ease of removal. Not always necessary, for there are host of other ways to get the carrier out. Pry bars, a come along, cherry pickers, even attaching a strap/choker around the carrier hooked up to a tractor and yanking it out (not advised). When you get to that point, post up that question...You'll get a multitude of different answers, I'm sure. The way I do it is to put a wrench on the ring bolts such that when I turn the pinon nut, the wrench is stopped by the carrier housing. Then with a breaker bar and pipe I turn the pinion nut so the carrier comes loose. Need some serious beef for that! I'm not a young puppy anymore so I need a longer and longer pipe to get more poop on the bar, he he. Things can go flying around sometimes, though....
Shims: There probably will be shims on either side of the carrier berrins between the berrin races and carrier housing. Be careful to note how many are on each side when you yank the carrier. Depending on their condition they can be re-used. The shims are used to get proper carrier preload and backlash - after setting the pinion shaft. You'll also have shims on the pinion...along with crush washer and oil slinger. Note how they come out.
For your use of the vehicle, gearing and tires, I would stay with the D70, without a doubt! MPG decrease will be, for the most part, nominal.
If you're worried about MPG why are you planning to switch to a 5.13? 4.56 is pretty slow as it is, if it were my truck i'd be looking for a 4.11, maybe a 4.33 (if Dana made one) for the 37" tires. That's just me though.
08-07-2016, 09:39 PM
