I get the concept but am hung up on the fine points. What if anything are you guys using to seal the windshield to the rubber? What if anything are you using to seal the rubber to the body? Mid Fifty recommends using butyl between the glass and the rubber but makes no mention of anything between the seal and the body. Anyone who can give the the how to? Thanks

 

I put mine in without sealer, hasn't leaked yet. Takes at least two people.
Install seal onto truck, place a length of small rope in the seal channel, nylon works best as it is slippery, soapy water on window edge, place window in channel at bottom, press on window while slowly pulling rope out, window should walk into seal channel. It takes patience and some pressure on window, which is why you can really use a helper.

 

Whoops for some reason I read rear window, ignore that last post, I really should take these glasses off when I read :-)

 

In my experience butyl sealer is not necessary to seal the glass. Since the rubber goes onto the glass first and then onto the body, should you apply sealer to the rubber seal then it will make a huge mess when you use the rope in the seal channel. I would recommend installing the glass without sealer and if you have a leak later then merely lift the outer lip of the windshield rubber and apply the sealer up under the lip. Usually a leak will occur in the corner if it's going to leak at all.

 

I hope you report back on your results, I'm anxious to hear how your lower corners turned out. Is this new glass and a new seal? May I ask where you purchased it?

 

I had may windshield installed at Apple Auto Glass and it was installed without any sealer and it leaked like a sieve and he swore that I didn't need any sealer..

 

I need to put my glasses on when I read. Interesting approach to the rear window install. Mid Fifty has us installing the rubber around the glass first. Good to have several options. I also have to install the rear so you are ahead of me anyway. Thanks, Matt

 

The new seal is from Mid Fifty. The Windshield came with the truck. Looks to have some type of tint to it,,,darker at the top. I was not thrilled with the fit I saw at the lower corners when I took it off the truck...'56 f100. I was going to take a photo and ask if my gap was acceptable but was up against my self imposed question quota at the time. I will report back when I install it with the details and the fit. hopefully not more then a week.

 

That's true. The rear glass installs from the inside, the windshield installs from the outside. It's the way the rubber seals are made. There is a whole thread on it with instructions and cutaway drawings.

 

Excellent. Really appreciate it. On my windshield the inside looks perfect all the way around, but the lower outside corners have a gap that you could throw a cow through. Hope you have better luck.

 

Have half a tube of crl butyl sealer if you need . Just pay shipping .Used it on both trucks. I think it is a must .Just MHO koda06@bellsouth.net

 

I used the butyl on both glass and metal. I was worried at first about the mess it made, but it cleans up great with a rag dampened with a little paint thinner. I had one helper with the rear window. I had two helpers at the windshield, and I'm glad I did. I'd never done any glass install before, but it all went fine. Both rubbers were new and very pliable.

 

I have done both front and rear without sealer and not had problems. The reason the windshield mounts from the front is so it hits the solid lip of the gasket and won't push through into your face and lap should something hit it and if you need to escape the cab you can push it out from inside. You also don't want the back window popping out if you hit your head against it, hence it is placed from the inside against the solid side of the gasket. Whether it was truly designed that way or not I don't know but but it makes the most sense for safety reasons.

 

The rear window is installed from inside because of the headliner. The windshield from the outside because it's easier (and the 'normal' direction.)

Here's the deal: not using sealer on the outside allows some water and dirt to eventually make its way under the seal, even if you don't see any leakage. If you don't use a sealer and are lucky enough that water never seeps past and the paint protects the metal you won't see any rust. Pretty big 'if'. I prefer butyl or 08008 over silicone. Butyl remains sticky forever but is a mess/pain when it has to be removed. 08008 is a weatherstrip contact sealer (don't confuse with contact glue like you use to install formica) though it will also be a bit of a pain, it won't be as bad as butyl, but doesn't remain as pliable over the years. It may sound like overkill but my preference is 08008 in the glass groove and butyl in the body groove. And I don't mean big wads of either, just enough to accomplish the task. My reasoning, fwiw, is the glass is pretty stable but the body is going to stretch and flex. I also feel if the rubber is soft enough to provide a good seal it probably won't last very long. If it's tough enough to take on Old Man Sol for many years it's probably not going to be a very soft, compliant seal.

 

Very good information , reps sent..